I've gotten Deering Goodtime co-rods from them -- even though they're not listed under Parts. I just called, got a price, and placed the order. They've got a standard thread to connect onto a neck hanger bolt.

I use a variation on dowel sticks. The Co-rod and dowels are keeping the string tension on the neck from busting the rim. I use a dowel that is glued in place. The neck uses one or two lags and nuts to mount to the rim.
Usually use a single dowel but clearance to the lag can be an issue.
Have never had an issue with this set up. And it makes neck removal simple.

Tom, this looks interesting - so your dowels don't run into the neck heel at all then? You use hanger bolts to attach the neck to the rim, and then have dowels running through the rim just to provide some additional structural support? How do you attach the dowels, and do they run through the rim at all or are they sized just to fit snugly from wall to wall, and then secured with screws from the outside in?

Actually, I can see now in the photo with two dowels that you have them running all the way through the wall of the rim. How do you secure them inside, wood glue? And do they run through the tailpiece end the same way?

Link to Ebay co-rods

I added a second simple rod of threaded rod stock from ACE hardware, to my goodtime rim. It was warping from years of string tension, and the existing single rod just exacerbated the warp when trying to adjust it. With the second rod, I now have a perfectly round and adjustable rim.

I don’t see any reason you couldn’t use threaded rod to support your rim, and either bolt the neck on, through separate mount points, or even use threaded rod as co-rods, using coupling nuts to the threaded studs (hanger bolts). hanger bolts are standard hardware, and available at ACE as well.

I use Titiebond II. Since the dowels are under tension, a small diameter( 1/4" to 5/16") oak dowel is fine. Use a forstner bit to drill.
Dean's suggestion of a threaded rod works well, too. Same structural support.

You could also use a flat stick. I did one with a carbon fiber stick about 1/8" thick x 1/2" wide, screwed to the bottom of the pot.

Thanks for the suggestions. RioStat , I saw that listing but those rods are 9 3/4", so they're a bit short. I'll look into the dowel sticks and threaded rod from ACE options. I just want to be sure that I have a reliable and solid method of attaching the neck because the components I've collected for this banjo are really nice, and I want the full instrument to live up to its parts. I'd be upset if the neck just didn't join correctly or if the rim warped.

I built another resonator back earlier this year that I love, but it's imperfect - it's got a 12" rim and I secured the neck with two hanger bolts, and then ran a 3/4" dowel from one bolt through the rim's body to the other end, where it's secured with a tailpiece screw. It works, but between the 12" rim and the somewhat jerry rigged neck connection/dowel construction, the tuning can be a bit wonky. I'm trying to avoid that this time around.

Tom -- a bit off-topic, but is that a tension hoop for a snare/tom drum? What size? I have had the same thought, using drum hardware on a banjo rim.

Hi Ethan,
It is an 11" drum hoop. I like them but they do look a little different. Cost is about $20. And you can use 6 fasteners to tension to 90 on a drum dial.
Of course, it is not like Gibson which sometimes seems like heresy, but I am dyslexic and have to try any square peg in a round hole.

Tom in (chilly) Maine

Hanger bolts, connecting rods, and coupling nuts from McMaster-Carr would provide an alternative coordinator rod arrangement.  Below are the McMaster-Carr webpage links to those three products.

Hanger Bolts

Connecting Rods

Coupling Nuts

This is super interesting. I like the idea of hanger bolts for neck attachment. Does anyone know how Nechville supports rim stability - I think they have no rods, and the neck attachment is different too.

Hangout member Dick Guggenheim used to build his banjos without coordinator rods at all. Just nuts on the hanger bolts, bearing against large flat washers (maybe even fender washers) that spread the pressure across more area to resist creating depressions on the inside wall of the rim.

He only started using coordinator rods after seeing Warren Yates's video on bridge placement and intonation in which Donnie Little demonstrates using the tail end co-rod nuts to fine-tune the banjo's tone and sustain without affecting action.

I believe Nechville has no co-rods because his rim is basically a metal shell. Aluminum pot banjos also do not have or need co-rods.

I am pretty sure Dick Guggenheim uses one co-rod and a lag. I will ask him.

quote:

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Originally posted by lazlototh

I believe Nechville has no co-rods because his rim is basically a metal shell. Aluminum pot banjos also do not have or need co-rods.

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I don't know about co-rods, but Nechville banjos have wood rims. The metal shell is the frame that looks like a flange, fat tension hooks, and tension hoop but is really one piece.

My aluminum-potted Rover RB-35 has a single co-rod.

Hey Ken,
I spoke with Dick a little while ago. He said to say hello.
He mostly used a single co-rod. He did do a couple with no rod. He did put a wooden strip across the bottom of the rim, similar to the glued dowel I use.

I had a Nechville years ago, I believe the wood rim sits inside a metal shell. The neck is mounted to the metal outer shell without rods. If there was a rod there, you could not screw the tensioning system.

Tom

I been runnin a few banjo pots here with no rod at all..
Just 2 lag bolts n wing nuts...
Or lock nuts..
Both metal n wood pots..
(Thick wood pot..)

Been very happy with the results..

One builder was a machinist and made a spider-back with a central hub and six adjustable rods with turnbuckle rig.
I’ve only seen one of these on an Austin rim, but a kit could be marketed easily.

All the rims I’ve seen and can think of including yours truly have varying amounts of resistance to ovalization.

My old-timer mentor notes the roundness of the tension hoop and claims the rim can even have different center points!

The Wildwood rims have an integral thick block that is left intact. It’s clunky, but it works, still two rods are in use.

I like two hanger bolts with Fender washers. Guggenheim is an innovator with unfinished interiors. The neck can take adjustment.

My Bamboo #001 has no tension rod in the neck, but a thick Jatoba flooring rod non-adjustable stood up on its side since 2009.

I can see a hardwood ledge glued in pieces around the inside of the rim with a beveled top edge, that’s about the limit.