Some are faster to put on than others and are tension adjustable. It’s just really boils down to what you want. Some folks want the newest most expensive thing out there going. But I’ve played for forty some years and get by just fine with a Kyser or a shubb just fine. I’ve tried the very expensive ones out there now but I’m just good with what I got.

I agree, a capo is a personal preference.

I use a Shubb and I like it because it has an adjustment wheel so you can adjust the tension as you move it up the neck.

I used to use a clamp on type that had no adjustment and found that as I went up the neck with the capo that it made the strings sharper and I had to do a lot of retuning.

Some like the closed "U" shaped capos because they ride on the peghead just behind the nut when not in use. Handy. Depending on the type of case you have you can leave the capo on the peghead in the case.

Some people like the "endorsed" capos. Elliotts and their predecessors used to carry endorsements by Tony Rice, Bill Emerson etc. And they are a close approximation of the "U" shaped capo Earl Scruggs made himself in the Lily Mill machine shop in the 1940s. Some people love the elegant machining, polishing and stainless steel material of the "expensive" capos.

On the other hand some people would NEVER pay $200 for a capo, because..., they are too easy to lose when you're jamming! You really kick yourself when you lose a $200 Elliott. Not so much when you lose a $20 Shubb. Shubbs are in every music store. Elliotts have a waiting list.

A capo that clamps above the nut when not in use is much harder to lose.

I have several Paige capos, and one Shubb. I have never had any problems with either type. I don't store the Paige capo above the nut like many people do, but I like the design because it's small and compact. For years, I used the Bill Russell elastic capo. They did a fine job but were a little slow to use.

I never saw much sense in spending $200 for a capo when my Paige and my Shubb both cost about $20 and do the same job. I expect both of those cost more by now.

OK, wow, I was expecting some comments about tone. Like "you get a more nut-like response from blah blah."

OK, that's $80 I can spend on something else.

Thanks, all!

Well...

During 50+ years of banjo  I gradually progressed from the flip lever Shubbs through the Paige U-shaped ones, ending up with the Shubb F5.

I found the flip lever Shubbs somehow muting the tone, taking off some high end and a bit of sustain at any capoed position.  The Paige was better in those points, but felt a bit flimsy.

The F5 is better on all points, where I'd suspect it's weight helps the sustain and a don't hear any attenuation of the highs, compared to open G

Because of that, I bought another one for my other banjo too....

The most accurate capo ive ever used the the Fretpaw Capo. But it can be a pain to move it up and down the neck. Theyre not made anymore.
For playing on stage the kind that can stay on the neck when playing in G are the best to me. . I like my old shubb when im not trying tp remember which pocket i put it in.

Over the years, I've tried a lot of different capos. When I worked for the company that makes Hamilton music stands, I even invented one (The Fret Spanner).  The Fretpaw capo incorporated the primary functional principle that was the basis of the Fret Spanner design.

I've settled on the D'Addario Banjo Pro capo. It's compact, light in weight, and it does a pretty good job of clamping without causing the strings to go out of tune. When not in use, it can be clamped on top of the nut. The "C" shape allows it to be used at the fifth fret without interference with the fifth string tuner. They sell for about 18 dollars.

I think it's a matter of taste. It's been my favorite for a few years now.

ddbluegrass.de/index.php?seite...ber-bauen

I generally use an Elliott, or at times a Huber. Yes, both are high end capos. Having said that, I will also use a Shubb at times, like when capoing up to C, because the Shubb is open on the end and doesn't interfere with the 5th string peg. The spring loaded things would also work in that regard but I don't like them. I do believe the high end capo is perhaps a wee' bit better at NOT throwing the banjo out of tune, and that is important to me. I am NOT too keen on most others, but I have in fact used most capos that are made, and some that are no longer made! I get that NOT losing that 100 or 200 dollar capo is a factor, I'm pretty aware of where my capo is!! Usually on the banjo (if being used), right behind the nut (if playing but NOT being used), in my pocket or in the case!!

forgot! - I also will use the McKinney!! I have several of the better high end capos, mainly because I have several banjos. I got tired of trying to remember which case the capo was in when I only had one..... the most obvious way to fix that problem? Get several more! So now there is one in most of the cases of the banjos that I most often play! Now if I could just remember where my several packs of new strings are.....

I have at least one Shubb in every banjo case. They are dependable and always work well. I bought the newer U-shaped Shubb and it has popped off twice during a gig, so it stays in the case pocket until I learn how to use it. I've never had that happen with another capo in over 60 years of playing. Lately I've been using the Paige so I can keep it above the nut, and I also have a Katz-Eye that does the same thing. I also really like the D'Addario Pro capo - light, small, and easy to use, and I have one in most cases and in my vest pocket. I don't like spring capos, and can't afford to lose a $200 one, but I can understand why people would want one. If you watch Hee Haw you can see Bobby Thompson using an elastic capo, which was the only kind I used on banjo and guitar for 30+ years.

quote:

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Originally posted by kayakeradam

And what do people love and why do they love them in 2026? The typical Shubb C5 is my goto, iff it fits and sounds good...

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Get a capo that fits your neck and works with you. 

Watch out for a neck that is tuning sensitive with a capo.  Some banjos don't care and some do; I suspect it has to do with fret size and action height.  If it goes, subjectively, too far out of tune or the strings go dead: try another brand/type of capo.  

Shubb C5 (clamp) capos are great and work on most banjos; deeper necked banjos commonly exceed the jaw capacity.  These are quick to install/remove but, you have to keep track of a separate piece...

The Paige (yoke) capos have a slightly greater neck capacity but, are difficult to move, or cannot fit, past a hand-stop for docking at the nut without opening the latch.  Slower to install/remove and can stay with the instrument (except when hanging on a StringSwing).

Kaiser (spring clamp) capos look and feel sorta-cheap.  They are also quick, lightweight, easy on the tuning and can store on the peghead; go figure.

I think the important choices are about yoke or clamp and how shiny it needs to be.  

If you're going to get a "U-shaped" capo, I'd suggest you consider one with a "push-button" type bar. Much easier to take on/off than one that has a little "u-shaped clip" on the end.

Unfortunately, these are on the upper end of the scale -- Elliot.
Don't know of any others making them at the moment.

I have a pushbutton capo made by the "BMF" capo guy I bought from Arthur Hatfield some years' back. Not quite as flashy as an Elliot, but it does the job.

Here's a link to a BMF banjo capo that was on Reverb, so you can see what it looks like. Arthur's looked the same except they were stamped "AH" instead of "BMF".

https://reverb.com/item/8202609-bmf-banjo-capo-hand-made-non-radiused

Some capos seem to like certain banjos better than others.  I have a V-neck banjo, which really requires a Kat-Eyz capo.  For other banjos as well, I prefer the yolk styles because you're not scrounging around looking where you put them, and they apply pressure evenly on all strings.  McKinney and Kat-Eyz capos really allow you to control the pressure well as they are very precise.  At a lower price point, the Shubb Fine Tune capos work great as well.  I have an old Paige but the knurled knob is too small and the threads actually started to rust.

I agree with Brian Murphy with regards to some capos work better on certain banjos. I use Dave Elliot’s ultimate banjo capo (not to be confused with the much more expensive and well known elliot capos) on every banjo except for my main banjo which is a little wider (1.35 nut). For that one I use a shubb c5.

quote:

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Originally posted by kayakeradam

OK, wow, I was expecting some comments about tone. Like "you get a more nut-like response from blah blah."

OK, that's $80 I can spend on something else.

Thanks, all!

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There are a lot of comments about the ergonomics/preferences of use, and about "high end"  (meaning expensive ) capos.  Functionally, there are two aspects that affect the tone:  (1) weight and (2) the composition of the rubber/plastic sleeve that presses the strings.

Weight

More weight increases sustain but also slows response to the plucking of the string.  Whether or not capo A can be distinguished from capo B is a matter of individually hearing.  For example, Shubb makes an aluminum capo just like its regular steel capo.  The aluminum weighs about 0.8 ounce, and the regular about 1.6 ounce.  Trying back and forth, I can notice a small difference in tone and response, and slightly prefer the lighter one.  Could I do this blindfolded?  I don't know.

Sleeve

Regarding the sleeve, from experience the Shubb sleeve will get a little softer over time, maybe from a lot of use pressing strings.  About once a year I change the sleeve, and the tone gets a little clearer -- again a small but noticeable difference.

Another factor with the sleeve is how much pressure is needed.  On a banjo, the strings might be .010", .011, .012, .020.  The sleeve will hit the first string and 4th string first, and then have to to mashed down to fret the 3rd string firmly.  How much down pressure depends on the stiffness of the sleeve material.  I think that's why some say that capo A pulls the strings sharper than capo B.   A stiff plastic sleeve such as on the Elliot capo needs more down pressure, and because it is round it tends to contact the string in a smaller area compared to the flat rubber Shubb sleeve.  To me, the Elliot sounds less like fretting with a finger than the Shubb.

Considering both of the above, overall I prefer the Shubb with a fresh sleeve for keeping a consistent tone on the banjo when actually playing.

Hope this helps.