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GOOD BANJOS

Monday, January 26, 2026

Observations:  Any banjo can be played with any style, but, we have tone expectations per genre. 

Notes on Banjo Heads at the same tensions:

Ren / Frosted / Suede / Fiberskin
Bright / Quick / Plunky / Muted
0.008" / 0.009" / 0.010" / 0.014"

I have a banjo with a scoop; it does give additional play/tone options and is very nice, but, not nice enough to be part of the decision matrix.  Radiused fret-boards are pleasant and also a 'push'.  I want jumbo frets; also, not on the list.

Stability is critical.  Two coordinator rods or a dowel stick are better than a single coordinator rod; this is very important with thinner or more flexible rims and less important on 3/4" or greater hardwood rims.

Scale length changes the tone and character of a banjo; the left hand playability difference is negligible.  Longer 26-27" scales give a richer tone, are more flexible at tension, feel softer under the fingers and require less right hand effort; shorter 25" scales have a thinner tone, are noticeably stiffer and require more right hand effort.

Banjos with metal tone rings of any sort tend to have decent projection. 

Concerning woodies, be selective; good projection and multiply rims are typically at odds.  

Claw-hammer banjos can have a resonator, no scoop and be 'Goldilocks'.  Looks and cultural belief are deceiving.

Deeper rims are a good thing.  The only consideration is fitting it into a case;  the typical bump case will support up to ~3.5 inches deep.

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Concept examples:  I like all of these (and love some of them) when they are stable and the set-up is peaked.

1)  Silver spun tone ring on a rod or "Little Wonder" tone ring with resonator (ren/amber, frosted head).  These ring on a rod banjos have beautiful and versatile 'singing voice/tone' sorta-like a Whyte Laydie 'lite' (WL) with a more straight banjo tone and are a very good match for claw-hammer or any play style and project without being overbearing.

2)  Electric/WL open back (frosted head).  Strong singing voice/tone with punch and are a solid match for claw-hammer or 2F/3F.  Many people favor these as a "Jack of all styles" banjo, including me.  note:  Tubbies (frosted) are similar with more punch and less singing voice/tone 

3)  Spun ring (ex: Dobson or Bacon style) directly on a  wood rim open back (ren/amber head).  Warm tone with depth that is closer to a woodie and is a good match for claw-hammer or 2F/3F.  They are perfect in the living room and are easy to sing with.  note:  I believe these would be closer to example #1 if the ring was sitting on top of a quarter inch rod.

4)  Plain brass rods and rings on a wood rim (ren/amber, frosted head).  These have lots of plain old straight banjo tone and decent to excellent volume largely dependent on the weight of the ring and rim construction.  They are a good match for any play style depending on set-up.  note:  integral aluminum rims can be wonderful and fit into this category, but, choose carefully...

5)  Three pound bronze flat-head open back (frosted, suede head).  These have an exceptionally strong, wide ranged voice and support all play styles.  Set-up and head selection can be used to strongly direct the tone which tends to stay clear and loud, even standing in the middle of an open field.  These are very nice, a bit heavy and tend toward more of a performance based setting.  note:  I suspect that a suede head on the Deering all-steel (Boston) rim might calm it down into this category and weigh a little less.

6)  Multi-ply woodie vs 3-ply hard maple (ren/amber head).  Plain multiply woodie banjos tend to have poor projection.  The Goodtime is a good example of this comparison; the new stiff 3-ply rim is much, much better sounding than the older multi-ply (not counting the "Special").  In general the bulk of plain wood rims tend (there are exceptions) to have less projection than rims with metal tone rings.

I hope this helps, a little.  Cheers.

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note: Learning the words and singing along (out loud or in my head) helps me make the tune and timing sound 'right'. ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| note: Check out the Steve Davis head tension method with a 10" ruler and coins if a DrumDial isn't handy. ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| "A man must love a thing very much if he not only practices it without any hope of fame or money, but even practices it without any hope of doing it well." G. K. Chesterton ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| - Take a length of seatbelt webbing for the shoulder (long enough to reach from hook over should to hook) - Stitch a longer length of soft 3/4" - 1" webbing to the seatbelt webbing (long enough to go round the banjo over the shoulder and tie together) note: bar tack at the ends of the wider strap and stitch between - Gently melt the ends of the webbing to prevent fraying. Do not be vigorous about melting the ends; the hard melted plastic is scratchy and inconvenient. - Add a pad to suit. I have yet to need or want one. - run the narrow webbing thru the hooks in a cradle fashion - tie the ends of the narrow webbing together with a square knot Simple yet elegant. This is better than perfect; it's adequate. ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||| Musical instruments bring discord and peace; the trick is in the harmony.

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