grm405 says:
3/5/2012 6:47:22 AM

Well, first I would recommend not blindly adjusting the truss rod without knowing what you are doing. The Stelling website has directions on setting up your banjo, including specifications on neck relief. Tightening the rod moves the neck back (flattening and eventually back bowing) and loosening the rod puts more curvature (relief) in it. Turning the nut clockwise tightens it.

Setting neck relief is the first thing you do, by measuring the distance between the 7th fret and the string (I usually use the 3rd string) when the banjo is capoed at the first fret and the string held down at the 22nd fret. Stellings recommendations are a little higher than typical, but the distance should be between .015 and .025" clearance (get a $2 set of feeler gauges at Harbor Freight). This is what you adjust the truss rod to achieve. Carefully and slowly. Like a flat (1/6th of a turn) at a time. Keeping in mind that the neck may change shape a little slowly and it may take as much as overnight to assume the final shape.

It is far better to adjust a little, wait overnight and adjust again rather than risking stripping the truss rod and ruining a neck by making 3/4 turn adjustments at one time. In my experience it only takes a little tweaking. I have never adjusted a rod that much unless it was totally loose and took a lot of movement before getting tight enough to affect the neck shape.

Necks change shape with humidity and may need regular adjustment to maintain the proper relief. Some necks are very sensitive to humidity, some not. Just depends on the piece of wood used.

If the truss rod is loose and the neck still does not have enough clearance, string pressure will often slowly pull enough relief into the neck requiring you to tighten the rod after some time. If not, you need major work on the neck, like heat pressing or frets with narrower tangs.

Gerry

Geoff Stelling says:
4/21/2012 11:22:42 AM

Jim,
Gerry's comments are right on. Being less patient than most, I will encourage the neck to bow in the direction I want by pushing down on it after each turn of the nut driver. In the worst case scenarios, I have to apply heat from a 100 watt light bulb for up to 20 minutes at a time with the neck compressed in the center or where needed by a clamp. The neck is allowed to cool before the clamp is removed. I would advise having this done by me or someone who has done it often. Let me know if you need any more help.
Best, Geoff

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