mikehalloran - Posted - 07/02/2013:  09:15:54

quote:

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Originally posted by thefolkshop

 

pakid, I have an extra '60s Vega 'Folklore' neck that would bolt right on your pot. Contact me.  Paul

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I would. Is this a great place or what?

pakid - Posted - 07/02/2013:  11:57:49

In the opinion of those on the forum, would you go with a Gold Tone neck or a the Vega folk lore?  I think the Vega will be for me, but its just a curiosity.  Paul will have my business either way.  

I need to do the rest of this project on an extremely tight budget now, it seems I'll have to be buying a car.  Ancient Volvo or ancient Mercedes diesel here I come!  

I'll use what I've got unless I can get a good price on those tuners.  I'll contact Bob Smakula and see about them.  Thanks for the lead.  

And yes, it should be called banjo heaven, it is the best resource imaginable.  

grm405 - Posted - 07/02/2013:  13:26:49

I would go with the Folklore neck.  Especially since the attachment mechanism would be the same, requiring less fiddling and modification.

Gerry

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/02/2013:  16:49:42

Many advantages with the Vega neck. Since we have no idea of the cost differentia (if any), only you will know of any downside in that regard.

The pot that you have is considered by... oh... most of us to be nicer than the Folklore/Ranger pot which has no tone ring. 

mainejohn - Posted - 07/03/2013:  06:07:42

quote:

---

Originally posted by mikehalloran

 

One of Dave Guard's Vegas did have Klusons - and that was just uuggllyyy... This was done as a tribute. Am I right or am I right?

 

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With Dave Guard playing that banjo, it was cool. Anyone else....ugly!

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/03/2013:  09:18:39

Andrew, got a question.

On the inside of the rim, on either side of the coordinator rods, are there any Allen (hex) screws? If so, are there two or four?

pakid - Posted - 07/03/2013:  21:20:51

quote:

---

Originally posted by mainejohn

 

quote:

---

Originally posted by mikehalloran

 

One of Dave Guard's Vegas did have Klusons - and that was just uuggllyyy... This was done as a tribute. Am I right or am I right?

 

---

With Dave Guard playing that banjo, it was cool. Anyone else....ugly!

---

It feels almost wrong to say this, but I kinda like the way that looks!  

I think I'll stick to grovers or planetary tuners, though.  

"On the inside of the rim, on either side of the coordinator rods, are there any Allen (hex) screws? If so, are there two or four?"

Mike,

It does indeed!  It has one on either side of the coordinator rod .  I did not notice those there at all.  I imagine those have a good deal of importance here.  

I'm going to go with the folklore neck, its very satisfying to have the head stock still say Vega.  And it is easy, life is getting crazy!  I called 911 for the first time in my life today among many other absurd things.  I've never been through a day quite like it, and unfortunately it has not been very far form what is normal at this point.  I did complete an abstract painting though.  That was nice.  

Andrew

Edited by - pakid on 07/03/2013 21:22:59

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/04/2013:  12:17:20

OK. The Folklore neck may not be a tight fit - that's what the Allen screws are there to help with. When it's time, there are a few of us here, myself included, who can help you set it up perfectly.

If you are lucky, you back off the screws, the neck fit is perfect and then you snug the screws down but most, including my Pete Seeger need a little tweeking to get it right. My PS-5 has 4 of the screws - a bit trickier.

Helix - Posted - 07/04/2013:  15:27:22

Hooray, Mike will help you through, have fun with this.

Also the reason I like my Grovers was: they were silky, learn to lock your strings.

pakid - Posted - 07/05/2013:  15:38:03

Alright, probably gonna have to slim down my collection a bit!  The further into this project I am, the more I'm needing the money for other things.  

The last major piece of this puzzle that I need input on is going to be what to do about the tailpiece.

I'm not going to drill it or modify it if it can be reasonably avoided.  

Suggestions?  

And some other things:

The verdict on the tuners value was given to me as "replacement value."  I suppose that means grovers are in my future.  Is worth keeping the older ones?  It means that the banjo can be a four string again without too much effort.  I could also sell them and get at least a small amount  to put towards keeping price down.  

And:

Good value in bridges?  I have no idea what I'm looking for.  

grm405 - Posted - 07/06/2013:  07:30:17

I have seen Prestos strung with the 3rd string on top of either the 2nd or 4th string, requiring no modification of the tailpiece.  You can also just run the 3rd underneath the tailpiece instead of on top, as long as the tailpiece is high enough off the tension hoop.  It will take a little longer to string that way, but looks doable.  As a final resort just buy a new 5-string Presto or Kershner.  The Saga or RK Prestos are only around $20 and the Kershner $35.

If the Grovers are 2:1 you may well decide to replace them after a while as the tuning is quite sudden.  Of course a long-neck will make that less a problem as the strings are longer.  Should be a minimal problem to just pop out and pop the new ones in.  You may have to enlarge the holes slightly though, depending on the tuners you choose.

I make bridges and supply them to White Mountain banjos for their instruments.  I also use them on all my banjos.  They are very good bridges, although of a different design (2-footed vs. 3 footed).  I prefer them to all the boutique bridges I used to use and still have (and I have a bunch).  Send me your address and I will send you a couple free.

Gerry

pakid - Posted - 07/06/2013:  09:09:28

Thanks Gerry!  

In this case I think I will take the 3rd string re-route with the tailpiece as Gerry suggested.  The less I mess with it and the more original it stays the better.  The tuners will stay for now, too.  I have the patience, but not the cash.  

Thank you for the bridge!  Kindness to strangers is perhaps the most honest form of empathy.  Says great things.  

Now I just need to complete payment for the neck and a fifth string tuner, and I'll be putting this thing together. 

I'll be in Ocean City Jersey with a friend for a few days, so there won't be much in way of updates if anything.  I hope everyone has a nice weekend!

Andrew

pakid - Posted - 07/09/2013:  13:30:04

I'm going to take the banjo apart shorty to clean it.  Is there anything I should know about the process to avoid damage?  I do not think I'll have any issues, I just want to make sure.  

Thanks.  

grm405 - Posted - 07/09/2013:  16:36:34

Getting it apart is the easy thing.  Getting it together is the hard part!

No really, but the most difficult thing is getting the head tensioned correctly.  Most neophytes have it way too loose, except those who break it by tightening it too much.  If you go by torque, about 8 in-lbs (NOT 8 ft-lbs) for lubed theads is where I have mine.  Put "head tension" in the search box and read the 1000 threads on this (actually 10,300 hits).

Gerry 

pakid - Posted - 07/09/2013:  19:43:01

Alright, thanks a bunch.  Is it worthwhile to wait to get the new neck on the rim to put it back together?  I'm guessing not.  

More importantly, should I get a Grover friction or a geared 5th string with the neck?  I'd imagine it is a much better idea to go geared.  Friction does not have any advantages, does it?  

I think the Grover would match the rest of the tuners better though.  I have to check on that though.  

Andrew

grm405 - Posted - 07/10/2013:  07:37:31

Buy a $14 Gotoh 5th string tuner.  Far better than the other similar tuners (16:1 vs the common 12:1 and a lot smoother).  I would never recommend a friction 5th except maybe for nylon strings.  The Waverly planetary 5th is cool looking and smooth, but a lot more expensive than the Gotoh.  Best source for Gotoh (IMHO):

smakula.com/nbp.html

Sent you a couple of bridges.  You should have them today or tomorrow.  You can get it back together and then change the rim after if you want.

Gerry

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/10/2013:  13:58:53

Tailpiece.

There were two used by Vega in the '60s. One was used on the Pete Seeger and some early Folklores. It is the 5 string version of yours and looks like this. If you can find one, expect to pay $100 or so. These break easily. It is either made by Grover and a refinement of the Presto (but has no markings). or it may be made by Waverly (who owned a lot of old Grover tooling when they went under) but no one really knows anymore.

When Stew-Mac bought Waverly in the '70s, they tossed a lot of surplus parts and tooling according to someone who observed this first hand.

This isn't mine but I do own a spare.

Because they break easily, Vega went with this other Waverly on the Folklore around the mid '60s or so - this was also the replacement if your Grover style unit broke and you wrote Vega for a new part. By the late '60s, all Vega banjos used this tailpiece as did Martin when they bought Vega. When Waverly went out of business around 1968, someone (Mike Holmes? Stewart and MacDonald?) contracted with a Japanese company to keep building them. Modern reproductions from China cost about $25 new and are nickel plated steel. Vintage 'pieces are chrome plated brass, both Japanese and USA built Waverly - which may or may not be stamped. These are sturdy and adjustable. As you can see, it is designed for 4 or 5 string banjos.

pakid - Posted - 07/12/2013:  13:17:44

Everything is very soon to culminate!  

The neck and a fifth string tuner are underway from Arizona, so it will be a few days.

In that time though I will take the banjo apart, clean it, and re-assemble it.  

Gerry,

Got the bridges in the mail today.  I have not had a chance to open them yet, but I will when I get home.  Thanks!

As for the tailpiece, I'll use what I got.  I have to be extra careful about my money now; I'm selling two guitars to offset the cost of this project, even though I really do not want to sell the one.  

I'll start disassembling and let you all know how it goes.  

Andrew

pakid - Posted - 07/13/2013:  13:27:41

Lot of questions.  I need lots of answers, sorry.  

Alright, I dissembled, cleaned, and am now reassembling the pot.  Is there a correct way to tension the head?  Could someone direct me to a resource?  Thanks

The doorbell rang in the middle of cleaning and the neck was sitting in it's box on my porch.  Fast!  I only ordered it the night before last and it has traversed the U.S. from one side to the other in less than 48 hours and little money, without any effort on my part.  It's a marvel to me.  

Unfortunately the neck has really seen it's day.  It looks to have lived a long hard life before it got to me.  It's still in completely playable condition, but are there any recommendations regarding restoration?  Should I give it a shot to some degree, or just appreciate the history and be happy I got one at all?  

Double co-ordinator rods!  Was machen mir?!  

What is the recommended method of dealing with this?  Should I drill another hole for the second rod and buy the connecting rod online.  Remove it?  Drill a hole and do nothing with the second one?  

I already broke something, too.  I bought a 5th string tuner along with the neck, and i turned the knob a few times t admire the smooth action, then... snap!  A plastic washer appears to have broken on it.  Probably should not have been playing with it.  If I had a metal washer of the same size, could I just stick that on and call it a day?  It works fine, just feels a tad jiggly now.  

And the bridges are beautiful, Gerry!  They're gonna be the nicest thing on the whole banjo.  

Pics galore!  

Helix - Posted - 07/13/2013:  16:33:06

Another washer is great, you can make your own out of leather, they do.

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/13/2013:  17:52:15

You're in pretty good shape, actually. This is going to be a slow process. If I have a used P-112 tailpiece, I will send it to you - and I just may in the big box'o'parts.

When you have a project like this, the important thing is to get it playable first and, in the process, do nothing that makes anything worse than it is. During the course of events, you will likely put it together and take it apart many times. Most of us did this with an old Kay, masterclone or other banjos of inferior quality. You get to do it with a Vega.

One step at a time. The neck looks far worse than it is. The headstock has had a few different sets of tuners on it - no worries there - it means something will fit now and you can worry about "correct" tuners later.

There is one repair that must happen on the neck and that is for the 5th string nut. The nut can be a piece of plastic or bone (Vega used black or white plastic on these). A slot head screw can be used but in your case, the wood is missing. I think there must be a good wood fill product that can hold a 5th string pip in place to save time. One would mix it with rosewood sawdust so that it is not as obvious. If no one knows the right stuff here, ask on the building and repair board. 

Otherwise the correct repair involves replacing the missing portion of fretboard and drilling a new hole - you don't replace the whole fret block, a 1/2" wide piece is all you need and most luthiers would lift the frets to hide the ends so that all you see is the side seam. Neither repair is invisible with rosewood but this one can get pretty close if someone has a scrap of just the right color.

Did the old neck have just one bolt going through the rim or did it have two with one secured by a nut?

Edited by - mikehalloran on 07/13/2013 18:09:42

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/13/2013:  18:18:15

I meant P-110

grm405 - Posted - 07/14/2013:  07:16:32

I would repair the neck with a small chunk of rosewood as Mike suggested.  I would just make it triangular shaped and not worry too much about an exact match, just make it neat and tidy.  I would not use a 5th string nut, but a spike instead.  You can space the 5th string properly without worrying about the nut breaking out of the fingerboard, as happened with your neck.

If the holes for your old neck and the lower lag in the new are in the same spot you are very lucky.  If not, you will have to redrill something.  Double rods are better but single work.  Which to redrill, the rim or neck, depends on where everything is.  Understand it is pretty easy to drill new holes into the neck (after you drill out and dowel the existing holes) to match the rim hole, but a lot harder the other way around.  

Posting pictures of the rim and/or old neck might help you get better advice.  Whatever you do it will involve a decision though unless things just bolt up perfectly, which they don't apparently.

I would advise NOT using any plastic wood for anything.  That is the mark of a bungler and will negatively affect the value of the banjo.  Plug any old holes (including all those screw holes on the back of the peghead) with little dowels.  You can touch those up with color pens at some point.

Gerry

Railroad spike use as 5th string nut.

pakid - Posted - 07/14/2013:  11:35:46

I do not think that neck is in horrible shape or anything.  It's just quite rough.  My budget from here on is essentially 0.  Nothin but necessities from here on in.  Just something to note.  

I think for the fifth string nut issue, I'm going to plug it like Gerry suggested and then use a railroad spike.  It makes life less difficult, and I'm sure it will be better quality anyway.  

I'll get the head tensioned up and figure out when the luthier is going to be in so that I can pester him for a scrap of rosewood and some help.  

As for the coordinater rods, the issue is as follows:

The new neck has two bolts for co-ordinater rod attachment.  The little wonder neck only had one.  Therefore, there is only one hole in the rim of the banjo to accept the rod closest to the fretboard.  Should I drill another hole and buy another rod, or remove the second bolt on the neck?  I guess I could also drill another hole and just not set the second rod up.  

They also do not line up the same.  The distance from the top of the bolt to the fretboard on the the new neck is 1 11/32", whereas the original neck is 1 15/64".  This means that the new neck should sit a tad less than 1/10" higher than the original.  Measured with a digital caliper, btw.  

pakid - Posted - 07/14/2013:  11:53:53

Well, I just tore the the head.  

S**t.  

grm405 - Posted - 07/14/2013:  18:13:34

I would take the easy route.  Plug the existing lag holes in the neck and drill a single hole to use the existing coordinator rod/lag from the tenor neck in the long neck.  I might be hard to fit two rods since it looks like the tenor neck is shallower than the long neck.  Don't be afraid to use a slotted hole in the rim to allow some adjustment of action height.  Just remember that while it does no good to mount the fretboard below the head surface, you can mount it above the head surface to lower the action (raise the neck up) as desired.  Most of my necks are mounted .060-.090" higher than the head to give more clearance for playing near the end of the neck.

You may have to trim the heel a little to keep it at the height of the rim and add a rim cap.  Just be sure of how you are going to fit it before you cut anything away.  I have had to trim the heels and add a heel cap of all the necks I have fitted, partially because of the attachment method I used, and partially because the necks were made for deeper pots.

I use a torque wrench to tension the head repeatably.  The only head I have split was due to pounding on it to make it settle faster.  If the hole is tiny it will likely not be a problem, but a split will be and solves your question about replacing the head;  you will have to.

Gerry

pakid - Posted - 07/14/2013:  21:14:25

So, basically you are saying I should remove the attachment points on the neck, plug the holes with dowels, then drill a new hole to remount one of them, then bolt it up like the last one?  

Borrowing from Mike's philosophy to get it playable and then adjust, could I forgo that for now by just removing the second lag?   I'm moving out as soon as I have an apartment in Philly, so there is not much time.  Nor will there be much money.  No workshop after this for heavy work.  No tools, my drill press is certainly not going to go in any apartment.  I don't mind an instrument that is a little unrefined.  It just needs to play well and not fall apart.  If its not done before I move out, it probably will not be for several more months until I get into a borrowed workshop on fall break.  I'd rather be making it better in that workshop than still trying to get it playable.  

To me:

Fix fifth string issue.  

Buy and mount new head.  

Remove second lag, mount neck.  

String and adjust bits and things.  

Any thoughts on that?  It's gonna be a lot for what time I have.  

Mike, 

I've been thinking about the bridge and I think I have a solution that will not involve ant replacing or modification yet be very effective.  I think.  I'll try to picture it so as to give a good idea.  

And of course, what is a good head?    

Thanks,

Andrew

Edited by - pakid on 07/14/2013 21:26:29

grm405 - Posted - 07/15/2013:  07:36:40

Andrew,

It is unclear from your pictures if the lags are the same size on both necks.  May just be the perspective.  If they are, then yes, you can try that.  If the lags on the new neck are larger (as appears in the pics) then you will have to use the attachment and rod for that lag.  Plugging holes requires a electric hand drill and is pretty simple.  Remove lag, drill to desired size, insert glue coated dowel and cut/sand flush.

A banjo is just a mechanical device so you can try lots of things and not hurt a thing.  There are two potential problems with mounting the neck higher, as you want to try.  The action may be too low and the neck notch for the tension hoop/head may not be deep enough.  You cannot check the latter until you have the head mounted and tensioned, but you can guess.  

With the neck mounted measure the distance from the bottom of the notch to the top of the tone ring.  It should be a little more than the height of the tension hoop + the head hoop (around .830" for my Vegas with a Remo head).  Then if you choose the proper head crown, the top of the tension hoop will be slightly above the head surface and the head will not bottom out on the notch.

The action height expected for the finished banjo can be estimated using a couple of rulers, a 24-36" and a 12".  Lay the long ruler on the fretboard (neck should adjusted pretty straight for this) and place the short ruler on the top of the tone ring at the expected bridge location.  This location is typically about 1/3 of the head measurement from the tailpiece end (about 3 7/8" on my banjos) or at the scale length from the nut if you use a long ruler).  The long ruler should be 3/8-1/2" above the tone ring top at this point, as indicated by the short ruler.  This compensates for head depression and neck bending when the banjo is assembled and the use of a 5/8"-.656" bridge.

You can tweak the action height with the use of shims or maybe those setscrews in the pot (not sure what those are for).  You can also slot the mounting hole a little and slide the neck up and down slightly.

I use a high crown Remo Renaissance head which places the tension hoop just above the head surface.  A medium crown may work better as it gives more clearance in the neck notch (I had to cut mine deeper).  It is always a compromise with these things.  The Vega uses a 10 15/16" head, not the common 11".  Bob Smakula has these.

smakula.com/BanjoHeads.html

Feel free to experiment as there are few hard and fast rules for rules on how to do this.  Just experience on what might and might not work.

Gerry

pakid - Posted - 07/15/2013:  09:54:57

Gerry,

Ah, sorry.  No they are not the same.  I guess surgery shall begin promptly.  How the heck do I get the lags out without damaging the neck though?  They are in there pretty good.  

I understand fully everything you are saying now.  Sorry, was a tad confused before.  I have the skills to complete all the modifications, time was the only issue.  I'll check back in once the lags are removed and the holes plugged.  Which will be very shortly.  

What head from Smakukla's stock would you recommend?  The only 10 15/16"  medium crown he has is the fiberskyn.  Otherwise its all high or low crown. What is going to give me the best all around sound here?  What about in regards to singing?  

Thanks,

Andrew

pakid - Posted - 07/15/2013:  10:05:59

Oh, and since I'm going all out here whether I like it or not, is there any way for me to stabilize the finish on the neck?  Just something to stop it from falling apart and give it some life back.  Maybe even another, very thin finish on top the old one to ensure that all the character in that wear and tear is kept? 

I do love for example impressive quantity of marks on the back of the headstock from the wide variety of tuners it has had, but I don't like that they provide a chance for chipping away more finish and damaging more wood.  

grm405 - Posted - 07/15/2013:  10:20:12

Elderly sells them in med crown:

elderly.com/accessories/banjo_...size=1015

High crown will work but gives less mounting flexibility  as it pulls down an extra 1/16" inch.  I have high crown on mine and they work OK but I cut the neck notch to fit.  I have not tried a Fiberskin although I have played banjos with them.  I like the Renaissance head a lot, as do many people.

Heat the lags with a soldering gun to soften any glue which may have been used.  They then should be able to be unscrewed with a pair of visegrips.  Unless Vega mounted them different than everyone else.

Just a word to the wise, I have had a really hard time finding smaller round dowels to use for plugs as they all seem to be oval, misshapen or undersized.  I now use the pre-made ones with glue grooves in them as they are round and consistent.  Also saves cutting a glue channel in them.  They seem to work very well.  I think they are pre-compressed so that the swell and fit very tightly as the water-based glues dry.

Good luck.

Gerry

grm405 - Posted - 07/15/2013:  10:26:27

Amalgamating old finishes:

frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/T...tor1.html

Turned out well here, but he is a lot more skilled than you or I.

Gerry

Helix - Posted - 07/15/2013:  13:40:08

to get the old lags out, first heat them with a soldering gun, if there are nuts that you can lock onto the stud, then use a wrench as a lever, you can always get new ones.

Keep going

pakid - Posted - 07/16/2013:  12:43:05

quote:

---

Originally posted by grm405

 

Amalgamating old finishes:

frets.com/FretsPages/Luthier/T...tor1.html

Turned out well here, but he is a lot more skilled than you or I.

Gerry

---

Wow, that is some amazing stuff.  It sounds risky, but I would at least like to get the finish to not degrade any further.  I think I'll give it a try to the extant of just saving the finish.  I do have fine sanding and finishing experience that is more than a little bit.  I have never worked with hard finishes is all.  

Thanks Gerry!  

And I'll take your word on those dowel rods; would they happen to be available at Home Depot?  My area lacks any fine woodworking supply locations.  

I do not have a soldering gun unfortunately, only a somewhat wimpy soldering iron.  Would very careful and intermittent application of heat with a blow torch be okay?  

As for the head, is there any reason to go with the renaissance over, say, the fiber skyn?  

Thanks,

Andrew

grm405 - Posted - 07/16/2013:  14:56:56

I get much of my stuff at Home Depot, including the precut dowels.  If I want longer ones I look thru their stock to find the roundest ones.  

Using a torch is at your own risk.  Not sure I would do it.  Doesn't take a lot of heat but you want it kept well away from the finish.  I have bought all my soldering guns for around $2 each at garage sales over the years.

Head choice is your preference.  Depends on what sound you end up liking.  Fortunately they are relatively cheap and easy to experiment with over time.  I replaced a skin head on my Little Wonder with a Renaissance and Weatherkings on my Tubaphone and spunover L&H with Renaissance heads and am satisfied.

Gerry

Helix - Posted - 07/16/2013:  15:04:04

Anything within reason that raises the temp to 160.

pakid - Posted - 07/17/2013:  21:34:58

Alright, thanks, home depot it is.  

Torch it is.  I will be as careful as possible would run out to a yard sale and grab a soldering gun, but in the weird world of suburbia seemingly every yard sale happens on a particular week in June, selected at random.  And no one ever has any good tools.  

Gerry,

Sorry to drag the conversation about the head choice  - What would you be able to recommend for a bright, crisp sound without ending up with something that sounds too thin.  Thought I would ask since you have a Little Wonder.  

Thanks as usual,

Andrew

grm405 - Posted - 07/18/2013:  07:38:18

Again, Renaissance.  Put it in the search box in the upper right hand corner and you will get a bunch of threads.

Gerry

mikehalloran - Posted - 07/18/2013:  17:17:47

Elderly has a large number of 10 15/16" heads.

If you can hang on till the weekend, I will check my basement (it's at a different location than where I live). I may have something for you there. I know that I have Fibreskyn but I may have something else - perhaps used. Vega banjos and I go way, way back. I moved out of that place 10 years ago but my tenants do not have access to the basement. 

I use medium crown and if too tight, a few seconds with a heat gun loosens them up. Normally, I do not have to take that step.

Helix - Posted - 07/20/2013:  05:19:35

Elite Amber is a Renaissance head

pakid - Posted - 07/25/2013:  14:54:42

Very sorry for the huge gap, I haven't run away.  I've been busy scouring the internet for a place to live this fall and I'm afraid I may have messed up by not getting serious about renting faster.  Blah blah blah, my problems, not your's.  

I made a mistake again, and I messed the lag up bad by stupidly applying pressure across the threads.  Every time I start working on this banjo I seem to loose my mind and do something that does not reinforce the idea that I have any common sense.  

Anyone have one on the cheap?  I can measure the threads. 

Mike, I can hang on for quite awhile.  This banjo is on temporarily hold.  

Update will come shortly.  

Andrew

Oh, and thank you all for your patience with me, being the bone-headed fool that I am.  

Edited by - pakid on 07/25/2013 14:57:40

grm405 - Posted - 07/25/2013:  17:18:53

Lags come in all kinds of sizes.  You can find them in the hardware store as "hanger bolts" or "Hanger screws".  Need to know the thread size and the length.  It is also probably possible to chase the threads with the correct size threading die.  Generally they can be made to work fine, but again, need to know the thread size.  Most likely sizes are 10-24, 10-32 and 1/4-20.  Take it into a hardware store and they will have threaded holes to screw it into to find the size.

Gerry

pakid - Posted - 07/25/2013:  21:37:21

Gerry,

I checked Home Depot when I was getting those dowels, they have similar hardware, but none used machine screws.  I messed up the threads on the end, so conveniently it will thread on nothing.  I just thought of a solution actually.  I'll just take the nut the lag bolt attaches threads on to, to one of the "home improvement" stores with me and guess and check carefully until I find the correct thread size.  Hopefully the screws are all in the right draws.  And then I will know what I need.  

Thanks,

Andrew

pakid - Posted - 07/26/2013:  18:39:41

Stopped at home depot today, it is a 10-32 thread.  I double checked hanger bolts, and it turns out they have hanger bolts.  In 10-24 and 1/4-20.  Not 10-32, so I'll have to order that.  Which I just did.  And I just ordered a head.  

Gerry, would you happen to where to find "cellosolve" or the like?  There does not seem to be much of a supply of the stuff.  What I did find was online and therefore associated with astronomical shipping.  

Thanks, it will come together shortly with great hope.  

Andrew Mattei

grm405 - Posted - 07/27/2013:  06:41:10

I have no idea where you might find it.  I would look at a big paint store, like an automobile paint store where it might be used as a retarder to slow the drying of lacquer.

Gerry

Helix - Posted - 07/27/2013:  09:42:51

Ace hardware has better hanger bolts.

pakid - Posted - 08/04/2013:  22:26:14

Sorry for another huge gap.  I was wrong about the thread size, and ended up wasting money on a hanger bolt that doesn't fit.  The threads are in fact 12-24.  Which is ridiculously uncommon.  There were only a few bags of any bolt with that thread, and there are no hanger bolts available anywhere, including online.  I ended buying some of those bolts in the right thread, cutting the head off and then sawing the old hanger bolt in half and welding them together.  It was a crap job, but it works until I can find one somewhere.  So, the neck is attached!  I just need to understand how to use those allen headed bolts.  

I got the new banjo head and have put it on and tensioned it.  This time I used my brain and consequently it is not torn.  

I'm going to go to the luthier to get the fretboard repaired and some strings purchased.  Hopefully that means I'll shortly be done.  

Thanks for all the help.  

I may be interested in a new tailpiece, not liking the one I have so much anymore.  Got anything Mike?  

grm405 - Posted - 08/05/2013:  08:39:54

10-24 Hanger bolts are all over the place, if you know where to look.  Home Depot sells bags of several for about $2 along with all their other bags of screws, and my local Ace Hardware has a good selection in several lengths, in the little drawers/bins with all the other misc hardware.

I would replace the tailpiece with a Kershner, as this is a very common tailpiece on Vegas.  Bob Smakula has them for $35 and they are very nice (I have one).

Gerry

pakid - Posted - 08/09/2013:  15:57:47

It's 12-24 I need, not 10-24.  10-24 does not fit, I tried.  I really wished that it did though.  

I'll check those out, thanks.