I doubt going to 92 will ruin the head.

92 is where it is now - maybe I'm just being paranoid about taking it higher for G#... :-)

91 DrumDial reading sounds like A on my banjos.

Do you like the way it sounds now? If so, don't monkey around with it. If not, crank it on down.
If you crank it down to 92 and split the head, are you confident that you can get another head to the point where you like it? If so, crank away. If you think you might not get it set back where you want it, don't monkey around with it.
You know how the banjo sounds, and you know your own abilities. Let that be your guide.

Im not sure 91 = G# on every DD. The deflection you get is dependent on the spring and I think one may have a stronger spring giving maybe a 90 and another DD with a slightly weaker spring doesn’t deflect as much and reads a 92.

We’re talking about 2 thousandths between 90 and 92 and I don’t imagine it takes a big difference in spring strength to deflect a head that much.

Mine is a hair over G# and my dial shows 90.

It’s always a good idea to zero the drum dial on a perfectly flat surface with no flex. I use a piece of flat glass.

You need to tighten the head until you get the tone you prefer. Conventional wisdom suggests that you should use the Drum Dial to achieve the same reading adjacent to each tension hook when you tighten the head. Then, record the drum dial reading at that level of head tension. That drum dial reading will be the benchmark for future adjustments of head tension. Because of variations in the mechanism of the Drum Dial, and in the conditions of banjo heads, I don't think you can expect that a specific Drum Dial reading will achieve a G# tap tuning note.

The purpose of the Drum Dial is to tell you how tight the head is, not to tell you how tight it's supposed to be.

I actually hear a G,G# or A head note and don't have a lot of confidence in a tuner hearing it correctly.

Just for more input, on my Sierra, 89 is a G, 90 is G#, and 91 is A. If I go much higher than 91, I start getting Sympathetic A note vibrations. At 89 I get G note sympathetic vibrations. Head tension is free, and fun to mess with. The DD wasn't cheap, but the best money I've ever spent on an accessory. My banjo has a sweet spot just a hair past 90 on the dial. It's nice to go back to that, if things start sounding off.

quote:

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Originally posted by LifeLongStudent

It’s always a good idea to zero the drum dial on a perfectly flat surface with no flex. I use a piece of flat glass.

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I always do this, every time. Thanks.

Erik:

I think you've had that banjo a good while. Am I right? What serial number is it?

I still have #5.

What type of head do you have on it?

John Balch

Yes, John, I've had this since 2007 when myself & a friend drove to Idaho to meet Will & pick it up since I didn't want to trust it to a carrier. It's Number 9 and it's been my go-to banjo since then. Unfortunately my band, The Notorious Shank Brothers, are not looking for gigs any more although we still get together once in a while to pick the ol' bluegrass music.

Erik The Pope

Oops, forgot this: It's got a Huber version of the Remo Weather King. I had it gone over extensively by Chris Cioffi several years ago & he installed it. He said he likes this version of the Remo. (He worked at Huber for several years.) Perhaps this is why the subject of the OP came up...

Erik The Pope

When I first heard Kenny playing his Williams banjo with the Burlile ring, I knew I wanted that sound (and I couldn't afford a pre-war, flat head Mastertone). So I had Arthur Hatfield build a custom mahogany banjo for me with a Burlile ring on a Sullivan old-growth "factory floor" rim. Arthur used the old Remo "Weatherking" head on it. I have had it for 20 years now and it it the best banjo I have ever had in my hands (and I have had some good ones). I don't have a drum dial (I probably should), as I have always tightened by "tap" and by feel. I should get a drum dial to be a little more "scientific" and precise (and to be able to communicate with others). All I know is that it really "pops".

Hearing the head note is free.
Of course so is measuring the head deflection with a 6" ruler and a dime.

Anthony, you probably have a precursor to the Kenny Ingram, same rim, same tone ring, same mahogany neck, same neck manufacturer. No wonder it sounds good!

Erik The Pope

Yes Erik, I think so. I think Arthur made the necks for the Kenny Ingram model Williams. They are awesome banjos....I have enjoyed mine for many years!

Arthur did indeed make the necks for all the Kenny Ingrams. Will put them together - they were basically parts banjos... :-)

Erik The Pope