As you've isolated the one at far right, apart from the lefties, I notice that that one has a noticeably less 'pinched' waist than the lefties. Or meaning, the 'waist' diameter of the lefties is less than, what appears to be a larger diameter of the rightie.

So, to INTENTIONALLY belabor the point IF there are a few curious folks, it could very well be, although we'll never know, that both but different hex nuts were produced by the same screw machine parts supplier. Profiling and threading nuts on a screw machining metal lathe takes only a few seconds each - but there could be a slight difference in the operator's set-up of the lathe tool post cutting tool (angle and depth) that, for example, would produce a slightly different lot run of imperial hex nuts vs. a lot run of metric nuts. Or said differently, Scooter at his machine has a slightly different lathe cut-off set-up than co-worker Betty does on her lathe. If the parts produced are not mil-spec (military) then there 'may' be lots of dimensional latitude regardless whether the production is banjo parts, car parts, or pace makers. All depends.

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Originally posted by pinenut

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Originally posted by The Eclectic Banjo

Which is the 25th metric hex nut I wonder (hint: I haven't started trying them yet).

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1st choice - third from the left on the top

2nd choice - the sixth from the left on the bottom

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Pinenut takes first prize! Yes the third from the top left is slightly off colored from the others and does appear to have a slightly longer bottom half drum and it goes in slightly more. However, I think I might've messed up the threading, so it doesn't fully screw in to place. 

I have purchased a medium crown 11" renaissance head by Remo and will finish the install once received. 

Thanks all

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Originally posted by The Eclectic Banjo

I have purchased a medium crown 11" renaissance head by Remo and will finish the install once received. 

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With a medium crown head, 89 on the the Drum Dial should be sufficiently tight that the bottom of tension hoop notch is pulled level with the fretboard or below it . If not, you'll either need a high crown head or have to use a higher tension.

Good luck.

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Originally posted by Old Hickory

quote:

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Originally posted by The Eclectic Banjo

I have purchased a medium crown 11" renaissance head by Remo and will finish the install once received. 

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With a medium crown head, 89 on the the Drum Dial should be sufficiently tight that the bottom of tension hoop notch is pulled level with the fretboard or below it . If not, you'll either need a high crown head or have to use a higher tension.

Good luck.

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I tightened a few tension J hooks on another medium crown head and should be flush with neck 

When the hoop sits that high above the head,the head is wrong.

It looks like frets 21 and 22 can't be played.

Finished the setup on my Huber. I ended up going with a Remo 11" renaissance medium crown head with medium light gauge GHS strings, 89-90 drum dial tension, and snuffy smith bridge. It sounds great. More plunky, poppy, boing-y sounding than what I remember it on the frosted head. Plus the aesthetic really highlights the bronze tone ring underneath and gold plated trim on the pot assembly vs. sucking the eye into the whiteness of the previous head. See attached playing practice video. Apologies in advance if that 5th string sounded flat at times. I had just installed the new strings and they were still stretching out. 

That's a solid set up spec. Sounds powerful but not harsh. 
 

Enjoy. 

Just an offshoot observation /question. Is it wise to have your strap mounted on the tailpiece post? Looks like it could cause a problem with movement?

Yeah I guess I could attach it to a neighboring J hook, might be sturdier there :)