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I enjoyed using a Thomas mill.I made a loading berm beside it and loaded that with my '57 850/bucket.
I learned not to pull a "Can't Dog" Peavey toward my face (black eye).
Blade sharpening was the biggest deal.

Got half the trusses done..i'm whupped...
Good sleep tanight... :0)

Gonna go with metal roofing..
I like that stuff..

2nd half of the trusses are done.... phew..
I'm whupped...
At it all day.. :0)

I am not the Worlds best carpenter..but i am having a good time.. :0)

Onto a bit of a tangent, but  the building in this pic is a 97-year-old community hall [with a much more recent tin "skin."]  I was in it on the weekend; I guess it's floor dimensions to be approx. 20' X 50'.  It didn't have any ceiling, andI  noticed the roof (?) to be rough 2"X6s".

What struck me as a bit different was the absence of any king-posts or webs.... just rafters and the main chord (?). The building seemed pretty straight, and I wondered how the ends of the rafters and chords were fastened; I guessed probably with bolts rather than spikes, and I had intended on taking a look after the "hot time in the old town tonight" concluded, but somehow got sidetracked. Anyhoo, considering the absence of bracing [and no turnbuckles to keep the walls from bowing] it looked pretty straight to this retired farmer/teacher.

Trusses..

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

Gonna go with metal roofing..
I like that stuff..

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I'd be surprised if you don't have more experience than I do with metal roofing.  I've never installed any myself, but on the arch-rib dairy barn, a few years after the contractor did his thing, I discovered a few leaks ... so I applied sealant to every screw/joint on the 50' X 96' building plus 36' X 36' milkhouse on the side.   It gave me time to think.   ]

And what I thought was that IF I ever did some, a) it would be "standing seam, " or b) if I used  another of the "typical" (?) profiles I'd put a "filler strip" under the ridges; wherever screws were to be screwed ....  i.e. fill the void so the screw provides positive "clamping."

Is/was my thinking screwy [no pun intended]?

Got this far today..

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

quote:

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

Gonna go with metal roofing..
I like that stuff..

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I'd be surprised if you don't have more experience than I do with metal roofing.  I've never installed any myself, but on the arch-rib dairy barn, a few years after the contractor did his thing, I discovered a few leaks ... so I applied sealant to every screw/joint on the 50' X 96' building plus 36' X 36' milkhouse on the side.   It gave me time to think.   ]

And what I thought was that IF I ever did some, a) it would be "standing seam, " or b) if I used  another of the "typical" (?) profiles I'd put a "filler strip" under the ridges; wherever screws were to be screwed ....  i.e. fill the void so the screw provides positive "clamping."

Is/was my thinking screwy [no pun intended]?

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They make putty strips fer that..

But a caulk gun n clear silocone window sealer works too..

Like this ...  if there's no solid backing it's akin to trying to screw straight drywall to a convex stud, no?

images.app.goo.gl/rQdJwWavPeLLZ35L6

Boom truck set up to use..flooring cut n drying..

Gotta pick the trusses assemblys off as so i can do the walls.. while waiting fer the roofing to come in..

Looking fer sujestions on wall hight..n..door hight n width..

Tongue-in-cheek, get a door that's a couple of inches shorter/narrower than the R.O.  

Ready for the next 2 phases...

Walls n roofing...

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Originally posted by Owen

Tongue-in-cheek, get a door that's a couple of inches shorter/narrower than the R.O.  

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Liz here: what's an R.O.? Thanks

... with tongue-removed-from-cheek: rough opening [the size of the hole in the framing]. 

Fig ..... that reminds me of when we built SEA huts in Viet Nam. The SEA huts were 16' by 32' and once we had the floor laid (32 sheets of 4' x 8' plywood), it basically set up the template for building the rest of the structure .... even the roof trusses. No more measuring was needed.

When that's all done Al , you've got to learn how to buck dance to entertain the kneeboors on your stage .

Something I've always wanted to learn but never quite got there 

BTW Al , sawmill lumber is referred to "rough cut"  in these parts --- something I always try to use if possible . And those special screws for nailing down a steel roof ---   like in my 40 x 40 pole barn , the the insulator washers deterorate away in time , so I put silicon over them & many of those did the same so I'd like to know what they put on steel roofs to hold them down w/o leaking ?

John ... ^^ from the pic-nitting department .... the math we [i.e. at least "me"] use up here "doesn't compute."  

'Way back, I knew a dude that stick-built (?) a house.  As a math exercise, he had his students calculate the lengths of the various combinations of the 2X6s and 2X4s he could buy so as to minimize waste. When the dust settled he had about enough cut-offs for a decent sized campfire.

I built a couple of houses.
When you build 24x24 it's pretty easy to have a small amount of scraps.

quote:

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Originally posted by Owen

John ... ^^ from the pic-nitting department .... the math we [i.e. at least "me"] use up here "doesn't compute."  

'Way back, I knew a dude that stick-built (?) a house.  As a math exercise, he had his students calculate the lengths of the various combinations of the 2X6s and 2X4s he could buy so as to minimize waste. When the dust settled he had about enough cut-offs for a decent sized campfire.

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Owen ..... what does not compute?  My may may be a little off, but I don't know where ..... but I do know how we built the SEA huts!

A 16 X 32 building = 512 sq. ft.   32 sheets of plywood [4X8=32 sq. ft. per sheet] = 1024 sq. ft.  

I Googled "Marine SEA huts" but mostly came up with "over water bungalows" for tourists.  Somethin' tells me that's not what you were building.  

[Fwiw, I'm not putting $$ on my calculations ... I'm getting to the age/stage where sometimes obvious things aren't that obvious.]