Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/408294
Porteiro - Posted - 04/23/2026: 13:41:04
I have a Gold Star resonator banjo that I am taking in for repairs.
While doing, so I was wondering if there's anything I should have them change for the setup to make it better for clawhammer (which I play exclusively).
Thank you.
pinenut - Posted - 04/23/2026: 14:00:04
Hi Porteiro,
Your account was started in 2005. Setup is dependent on experience and the individual. Given the time-in-saddle; you are your best expert.
Whatever setup feels right to you; is right.
Cheers
P.S. Please provide the current baseline setup of the Gold Star to 'prompt' the conversation. (tone ring, bridge, rim ply/thickness, model, head, strings, head tension, favored tunings, tailpiece, pictures, etc, etc)
Edited by - pinenut on 04/23/2026 14:04:49
Bill Rogers - Posted - 04/23/2026: 15:43:47
According to his “About” page, the OP is 96. (Really?)
Bart Veerman - Posted - 04/23/2026: 21:39:46
quote:
Originally posted by Bill Rogers
According to his “About” page, the OP is 96. (Really?)
Some people "time-travel" when filling in personal info details, some use invisible fonts...
They do it to make sure Santa is on the ball when it counts... 
Porteiro - Posted - 04/24/2026: 13:16:16
No, I am not in my 90s. I really have no idea why my profile says so.
I may have had a banjo (and been a member of the Banjo Hangout) for over 20 years, but I certainly have not been playing for 20 years. The vast majority of the time my banjo has just sat in its case. It's only recently that I've started playing again.
I know almost nothing about banjo setup, and really only have experience playing on two bluegrass banjos -- my Gold Start BF-85, and my father's Leo. I'm entirely self-taught, and haven't had a chance to compare to anything else.
That said, here's what I can tell you:
It is a Gold Star BF-85. It appears to have a flathead tone ring and a 5/8" 3-ply maple rim. It has a 5/8" compensated "moon" bridge (elderly.com/products/moon-comp...edium-5-8).
For strings I've only used D'addario medium phosphor bronze (10 12 16 23 10).
I play clawhammer style with G tuning in both G and capoed up to A, and double-C tuning capoed up to D.
It has a Remo Weatherking head that appears to be tuned to a sharp A.
The tailpiece is a presto that looks like this: stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware...ilpiece/.
It has a crack in the headstock, so I it is not currently set up with tensioned strings. But attached are some photos.
Please let me know if there's anything else I can do that would be helpful.
Edited by - Porteiro on 04/24/2026 13:19:31
Porteiro - Posted - 04/24/2026: 13:22:04
TimFoster -- here is another pic of the full banjo.
ETA: I don't know why this is coming out so poorly. It looks better before I upload it.
Edited by - Porteiro on 04/24/2026 13:22:55
TimFoster - Posted - 04/24/2026: 15:11:08
In truth I’ve only very recently attempted to head down the clawhammer route…
I have an older Gold Star JD setup for bluegrass/scruggs style… I had tried applying clawhammer playing mechanics on it before getting my Dobson, and it never felt right — the traditional bluegrass setup was sort of at odds with what I wanted out of a clawhammer banjo. Others here will have better insight, but based on my admittedly narrow experience exploring clawhammer, I’d consider the following:
—a slightly looser head tension if you’re looking for a warmer, less bright tone and are planning to leave the resonator on. (Bear in mind doing so will marginally lower the action.)
—perhaps some dampening…
—a taller bridge. I’ve found i fare better with higher action, gives a bit more leeway to come down on the strings with intention without immediately hitting the head. A scooped neck is nice for this as well — Russ Carson actually has a Gold Star bluegrass banjo neck that was reworked with a scoop in the classifieds right now that might bolt right up!
—Crowe bridge spacing… this is personal preference, but I find the wider string spacing easier to navigate.
Edited by - TimFoster on 04/24/2026 15:14:14
pinenut - Posted - 04/24/2026: 17:52:46
quote:
Originally posted by Porteiro
That said, here's what I can tell you:
Gold Star BF-85
flathead tone ring and a
5/8" 3-ply maple rim.
5/8" compensated "moon" bridge (elderly.com/products/moon-comp...edium-5-8).
D'addario medium phosphor bronze (10 12 16 23 10).
Remo Weatherking head that appears to be tuned to a sharp A.
The tailpiece is a presto that looks like this: stewmac.com/parts-and-hardware...ilpiece/.
Hi Porteiro,
That's a nice banjo and should have a full tonal range with strong volume. This means that it will tolerate all sorts of setups and still have decent volume and tone.
My baseline setup is:
- 5/8" medium weight compensated bridge. I like the Moon bridges, others are fine too. Intonation can be roughed-in by fretting just the 3rd string at the twelfth fret (compared to open) and an accurate tuner. daddario.com
- Neutral coordinator rods (a round banjo rim is a good rim). a little tweek on the top inside nut and a little tweek on the bottom outside nut; dun.
- action of ~1/8" at the twelfth fret, if I can get it; not buzzing is the only important criteria. A little more is nice for clawhammer and you can usually get away with a little less before the strings start buzzing. Changing bridge height is the best approach for changing action, as long as the bridge is not less than 5/8".
- neck relief of about a business card (~.010") at the 7-9th fret.
- Top frosted head. A strong banjo like the Gold Star can handle the thicker Remo Suede for a warmer tone and steer clear of renaissance with a strong banjo. Even tension all the way around is the most important factor with banjo heads. Drum Dial tension of 91-92. smakulafrettedinstruments.com/...njo-heads
- Long brass tailpiece, like a: Presto or Kershner for anything with steel strings. The no knots consistently fail to attenuate overtones
- V730 (10/12/16/23/10) or PH150 (10/12/14/22/10) or some other medium-ish strings are great. Brand doesn't matter
I think your current setup and what I have listed are considered middle of the road for any play style.
Good luck getting the crack stabilized. Cheers
Edited by - pinenut on 04/24/2026 17:56:44
Bill Rogers - Posted - 04/24/2026: 19:03:12
Your setup sounds fine; should be well-suited to clawhammer. What re you thinking it needs?
Porteiro - Posted - 04/26/2026: 21:56:24
pinenut :
> - Top frosted head. A strong banjo like the Gold Star can handle the thicker Remo Suede for a warmer tone and steer clear of renaissance with a strong banjo.
Why should I steer clear of the renaissance head? Your link said that its texture and tone of the Remo suede "similar to the Renaissance".
Bill Rogers :
> Your setup sounds fine; should be well-suited to clawhammer. What re you thinking it needs?
I wouldn't know -- I don't know what I'm missing, having essentially zero experience playing a banjo set up for clawhammer.
Bill Rogers - Posted - 04/27/2026: 01:52:18
I think you should just start playing. The only one who bas to be happy with your banjo’s sound and playability is you. Play it as is for 2-3 weeks. Note what you like and don’t like about sound and playability. Then you can ask focused and specific questions about what you want to change or problems you are having. Clawhammer setups vary with the player. There is no standard. Once you’ve played a while you will know where you want to go with your sound and ask questions accordingly. As I noted, you have a very usable clawhammer setup right now. So start there and let the results tell you where to go and what questions to ask. It’s your bano and your music. You are the one who should be happy.
EEB - Posted - 04/27/2026: 01:57:48
From what you say above, right now by far the biggest improvement in your set up is to buy a stand so that your banjo is always within easy reach. And a new set of strings.
That’s not sarcasm either. Assuming normal playability: playing time vs musing over 'set-up' = no contest. It's your busy hands and ears that will make all the difference. Really.
Then maybe make a few tweeks with your own newly experienced and attuned ears as your guide.
Edited by - EEB on 04/27/2026 02:10:00
pinenut - Posted - 04/27/2026: 11:13:37
quote:
Originally posted by Porteiro
Why should I steer clear of the renaissance head? Your link said that its texture and tone of the Remo suede "similar to the Renaissance". Suede (0.010") and Renaissance (0.008") feel and look the same but are different colors and thickness. The renaissance head could be considered harsh when combined with a brass/bronze flathead on a 3-ply hardwood rim. It is less harsh with a multiply rim and may be okay, depending on taste. I love the aesthetic of a renaissance head and it works great with simple lightweight tone rings.
I am not saying not to try the amber head; just know that they can present with tone issues that are difficult to correct on strong banjos.
... playing a banjo set up for clawhammer. The strings tend to vibrate more perpendicular to the fretboard when down-picking compared to up-picking. Setup for clawhammer means an action that is set high enough not to buzz on the frets; most banjos meet this requirement. That's the elephant.
Notes on Banjo Heads at the same tensions: a even baseline tension of 91/92 on a drum dial is a good balance between peak volume and minimum attenuation between the high/low ends.
Frosted ~0.009" heads are the baseline setting on modern five string banjos. Milder banjos get a volume boost from thinner more sensitive 0.008" Renaissance/amber heads and LOUD banjos can be sweetened with a thicker 0.010" suede head. note: Thicker suede heads are less sensitive and extract a small volume penalty in exchange for better control and sweeter tone. Fiberskin 0.014" heads are an effective band-pass filter and tone mute.
Ren / Frosted / Suede / Fiberskin
Bright / Quick / Plunky / Muted
0.008" / 0.009" / 0.010" / 0.014"
Edited by - pinenut on 04/27/2026 11:16:52
