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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: vintage vega little wonder clawhammer setup


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/283151

scottgrass - Posted - 04/13/2014:  06:24:47


I have had an 1924 Vega Little Wonder with the 11 15/16 head for  almost 50 years.  Never got around to converting the tenor neck to a five string till this week.  I decided to try to learn clawhammer since I made so little progress with three string bluegrass picking the last 45 years.  I got one of the Bernuzio vega repro necks (great value for 400 bucks) and installed it with the old dowel stick. the method that worked for getting the old dowel stick out was to steam it over the stove for about 30 minutes it finally let go.  I tried the hot vinegar soak for a week with the only result a crack in the neck where the dowel swelled.  I put some of  the vintage amber alcohol stain on the neck and matched it up nicely with the pot color.  It also "aged"  binding nicely.   It has a head I installed on it over 40 years ago, but no markings on the synthetic head.  this particular vega has the resonator installed also.  It has all the original hardware and it remains in good shape.   I have read what I could on the site for clawhammer setup and have listened to some sound files and seem to like the Tubophone sound best of all.  Not going to change anything until I get her back together and try the existing head and Little Wonder brass tone ring.   



MY QUESTIONS are:  do most of you use a bone  pip or a railroad spike for the 5th string.  My neck has nothing yet.  Also bridge recommendations.  Head recommendations.   string recommendations. tailpiece recommendations, mine is broken.   the tone ring is quite corroded is it worth taking it out and polishing it??   



I have a friend who plays clawhammer who is going to get me started on the frailing.  Thanks much in advance for your help.  I will post some pics today on my homepage.  all the best to you all.   david



Edited by - scottgrass on 04/13/2014 06:27:40

grm405 - Posted - 04/13/2014:  06:54:54


I use a spike as it allows me to space the 5th string closer to the edge of the fingerboard and not have the "cramped" spacing between the 4th and the 5th.  I find it unobtrusive and less likely to get in the way of fingering (had a pip on originally).  My Stelling uses a similar spike and and it if good enough for Geoff it is good enough for me.



I find the sound of the Renaissance head to be warmer than the rather bright Weatherking top-frosted and like it a lot.  I had a skin head on it originally (original Vega head) and got tired of the constant adjustment with humidity changes and the rather dull sound.



 I use my own bridge, one made of submerged maple.  This is the same bridge as I use on my Stelling and it gives a bright and clear sound with a strong 3rd string.   I am not a fan of heavy "clawhammer" bridges.



I have a Waverly on mine and don't really care all that much for it as it looks rather tinny, although it sounds fine.  I might try a Kershner but suspect it might be a little too long for best sound (I have one on my Tubaphone).



I have AMB Mary Cox strings on mine and like them a lot.  Highly recommended and they have been there for a year and still sound fine.



americanmadebanjo.com/product_...cts_id=68



Mine has a steel ring (apparently Vega used them interchangeably) and corrosion don't hurt, although mine isn't corroded, just dulled over.



Gerry



Edited by - grm405 on 04/13/2014 06:55:30

Fathand - Posted - 04/13/2014:  07:00:56


I have banjos with a Bone pip and one witha  spike. It makes no difference because the string rests on the 5th fret either way. If you use a pip behind the fifth fret and your string is higher than the fret you get intonation problems when you fret the 5th string.


Crusty - Posted - 04/13/2014:  07:03:42


I'd definitely clean that tone ring up so that it's smooth.  Depending on where the corrosion is it could have a big effect on the sound.



I installed a Fielding tailpiece on my 12" Style M Tu-Ba-Phone and I like it better than a No-Knot because it provides a little bit of down force on the strings and makes them sound a little crisper.  I've got a Sullivan Roasted Maple bridge on it and I like it a lot, a 5th string bone pip (but a spike would work just fine), a Fiberskyn head and I mostly use Vega Light strings. 



I also use a rolled up washcloth between the dowel and the head and the interior surface of the resonator is covered with felt to tone it down, but I'd take them out if was going to play bluegrass.


Bufo Bill - Posted - 04/13/2014:  11:50:27


My setup has the Little Wonder tone ring and Kershner tailpiece. Was going to swap the Kershner for a No Knot but it fits well and sounds so good that I intend to keep it permenantly.
My opinion on tone ring choice: keep the LW but clean it up a bit if necessary. White laydie or tuba phone are more in vogue, but the LW gives volume and bite to your sound without the need to be carried from the venue on a gurney.
Hope this helps.
All the best from Bill. :D

Bufo Bill - Posted - 04/13/2014:  11:53:24


Missed the previous post; I too recommend the fiberskin head and Vega Lights, these banjos sound great in A tuning.
All the best from Bill. :D

RG - Posted - 04/13/2014:  16:17:03


I suggest a 5th string pip if you want to learn CH...



My LW has a 12 year old Wyatt Fawley neck that I finished to match the pot (best $250.00 I ever spent) & I use a Ren head, a Bart Veerman 5/8 medium mystery wood bridge, GHS mediums (which I regularly tune up to A & D) with a .011 5th & .018 wound stainless third and a Waverly tailpiece with a 1/2 turn on the tensioning screw...it sounds like this...




Vega Little Wonder Fawley neck


Alonzo Janes

scottgrass - Posted - 04/13/2014:  18:58:43


Thanks for the help.  I  spaced the nut and filed slots for the strings,   Installed some tuners I had laying around and an old repro presto tailpiece.  Pulled an old railroad spike from an discarded neck and installed it for the 5th string.  Tried a few different bridges and some medium gauge strings.  and let  the girl sing after being silent for 50 years plus.  Sounded terribly harsh at first.  head was tuned to a perfect G from 40 plus years ago.  Tried several bridges until i settled on  an old timber Sullivan bridge and she has started mellowing out.  pretty good sound so far but a bit bright for clawhammer.  ill have to listen to it in some better hands these next couple of weeks.  hard to beat a 90 year old pot.  



250 dollar wyatt fawley neck is a gift from heaven.



 Loved the sound file.  would love to get that sound out of my Little Wonder



When I first hit some licks on the banjo thought about that gurney.  Boy was it loud and harsh



Pretty sure I am going to change heads.    thanks to all of you.   david


RG - Posted - 04/13/2014:  20:09:40


Try a medium goatskin head (I buy mine from Elderly), especially with the resonator (which I personally really like for Vega banjos).  I set-up all of my resonator banjos (RB-100, RB-250, 50's Bacon Belmont, '75 Ome X Silver Spun & RK25R) with them, can't recommend them enough for an old time sound...I use skin on all but 2 of my banjos, and on those 2 I use Ren heads...



The reason for the pip at the fifth is to put the 5th string level with the other four...so it doesn't rest on the fret...helps to get that 5th string "pop" & "bounce"...I play at the neck/pot junction...with the lower 5th from a RR spike with the 5th resting on the fret, in my experience, it's hard to get a good thumb on the 5th without hitting the head all the time and slowing down your stroke...and in 40+ years of playing CH & OT I can count on my fingers the times I've had to fret the 5th...



Have fun, love LW's, great OT sound when you get them dialed in...



 



Edited by - RG on 04/13/2014 20:23:12

banjered - Posted - 04/13/2014:  20:57:04


To reinforce what RG said about the necessity of rasing the fifth with a pip instead of a spike: When the neck does not have a scoop and you try to play over the neck - to achieve a mellower sound - a fifth string close to the fretbaoard because of a spike does not allow your thumb to be able to "purchase " (grab/hook) that fifth string very easily so you end up playing over the head which is a little louder/perhaps harsher/brighter. A fifth string pip (nut) gives you more sound options. The most ideal is to have the fifth string pip in line with the fifth fret wire so that the fifth string intonation works well when fretted. However, not too many of us lazy (me) CH players fret that fifth string. We leave that to the Ken Pearlmans of the world. Banjered

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