blindsniper - Posted - 03/01/2012:  22:46:26

Dear all,

Can anyone please explain to me how the flesh hoop works on a goat skin banjo head.  What do you use for it?  How do you make it? And what works best. 

Thank You

Ian

Fathand - Posted - 03/02/2012:  04:02:57

This should explain it: frets.com/fretspages/Musician/...head.html

A flesh hoop is usually made out of 1/8" diameter rod, some people have made one out of wire coat hangers.  If you have to make one by hand, bend the coat hanger around your rim until as round and snug as you can, you can join the ends together with masking tape as the skin will hold everything in place once you get the tension hoop on.  

jbalch - Posted - 03/02/2012:  04:45:06

"what works best?"  

Lots of things will work .... but I prefer 1/8" square-section brass rod.  The square shape helps minimize the hide slipping around the hoop.  This type of hoop was original equipment on many high-end banjos back when hide heads were the only option.

I buy the rod stock  from an online seller (onlinemetals.com/merchant.cfm?...op_cat=79) and roll the hoops using a planetary ring roller. Match the diameter of the flesh hoop to the outside diameter of the banjo's tension hoop ...cut to size ... and join the ends with thin (strong) tape.

Or you can buy the pre-made flesh hoops from someone like Bill Miller at banjoseen.us/Store/index.html  Bill's fine hoops are square brass and brazed at the joint (like the old ones).

Edited by - jbalch on 03/02/2012 04:46:20

jbalch - Posted - 03/02/2012:  05:43:08

Linking to the Hide heads group:  banjohangout.org/group/hideheads

trapdoor2 - Posted - 03/02/2012:  06:21:26

Most of the vintage hoops I've seen have been round iron wire, some have been soldered, one was tied with string, another had ancient tape. My Stewart Orchestra #2 had a very cool interlocking joint filed into the ends. The hoop sort of snaps together, somewhat like the lock joint on a pair of hemostats. I re-created that joint when I put a new head on it as the original flesh-hoop was rusted almost thru in places; took me all one evening to file that locking scarf joint.

My Ashborn has a copper-wire (8 gauge) flesh hoop. Jim told me to just go down to Lowe's and buy bare ground wire. I did and it worked great (very easy to bend to shape too. Used clear packing tape on the joint).

The square hoops are indeed "top-of-the-line", and I've used a couple of Bills. To be honest, I don't see much difference between them and the round stuff. I haven't ever had any significant problems re-heading with either type.

Shawn Hoover - Posted - 03/02/2012:  06:22:34

It looks like Bill's got the corners slightly softened on that hoop. That's smart. I'd hate to have the hoop actually cut through the skin during installation or in a small accident.

Viper - Posted - 03/02/2012:  07:38:14

Bill Miller's flesh hoops work great. I've used a wire hanger as a flesh hoop, and it worked OK, but it just looked ugly. 

Bart McNeil - Posted - 03/02/2012:  08:53:11

Brass rod (round) about the size of a coat hanger is availlable at most hardware stores. It bends quite cleanly into a neat circle and works just fine. Steel rod can also be used but you need to spray it with a few coats of laquer prior to installing the head because of its tendency to rust. As mentioned, a coat hanger will work too, but it is hard to get a really good circle.

As mentioned you'll find several sets of instructions on the internet and some videos on how to bend the circle and install the skin head.

jbalch - Posted - 03/02/2012:  08:59:46

quote:

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Originally posted by shoover

It looks like Bill's got the corners slightly softened on that hoop. That's smart. I'd hate to have the hoop actually cut through the skin during installation or in a small accident.

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AGREED - I usually ease the edges slightly too...

I also agree that round rods work fine, are easier to find, and are indeed common on older banjos.  I simply "prefer" the square ones and do think they function very well.

rcmoore - Posted - 03/02/2012:  13:42:13

Keeping the ends of a homemade flesh hoop together if you don't have the means to solder them can be a problem. I have found that securing them with heat-shrink tubing works great. I use two layers. Cut one about 1 1/2 inch long and another about 2 inches. Put them both on the wire, then move the shorter one over the joint and use a hair dryer or heat gun to shrink it while holding the joint ends together. After the first one is shrunk and cooled, move the 2 inch one over that one and heat shrink it. Works great and is very neat. If you can find the heavier tubing, one layer might suffice.
Bob Moore

mobyj - Posted - 03/02/2012:  18:52:28

I've used tie-wire/fencing wire (3.15mm/1/8in diameter) from the hardware store. Its galvanised and comes in a coil (already shaped!). Just cut to right length and connect the ends as suggested above.

Moby

jbalch - Posted - 03/03/2012:  05:53:16

quote:

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Originally posted by mobyj

I've used tie-wire/fencing wire (3.15mm/1/8in diameter) from the hardware store. Its galvanised and comes in a coil (already shaped!). Just cut to right length and connect the ends as suggested above.

Moby

 

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 That is a great idea!

charlied - Posted - 03/03/2012:  06:01:56

I was wondering, at work, if weed eater string could be used to make a flesh hoop. It might be too flexible but it is strong.  Glues might work to bond it.

No Rust.

charlie

jbalch - Posted - 03/03/2012:  07:59:51

quote:

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Originally posted by charlied

I was wondering, at work, if weed eater string could be used to make a flesh hoop. It might be too flexible but it is strong.  Glues might work to bond it.

No Rust.

charlie

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 The flesh hoop needs to be rigid.  Otherwise it will pull out under the tension hoop as the head is tightened.