I’m revisiting the old Buff Morris Buffalo Banjo I posted about a while back. I’ve been playing it a lot and am having a hard time keeping it in tune.
With a tuning app I’ve verified bridge placement by getting the same note open and at the 12th fret. Both perfectly in tune. But, some of the first few frets seem sharp regardless of how light i press.
Is this maybe an neck relief issue that I can fix with a truss rod adjustment?
Before messing with neck relief, check that the strings aren't sitting higher than they need to at the nut. Or try this: Put a capo on the 1st fret and check the intonation on frets 2, 3, 4. If no longer intonating sharp, that indicates a nut issue.
How many cents sharp are we talking here?
Straight frets,nuts and bridges are a compromise.
Best way for lower frets' intonation is to keep the string clearance over the top of the 1st fret at .010" - .011" (feeler gauge or banjo string/no capo needed) which is controlled by the depth of the nut slots.
Edited by - steve davis on 08/22/2026 05:58:54
quote:
Originally posted by banjoboydBefore messing with neck relief, check that the strings aren't sitting higher than they need to at the nut. Or try this: Put a capo on the 1st fret and check the intonation on frets 2, 3, 4. If no longer intonating sharp, that indicates a nut issue.
That's some great simple advice. Thanks!
quote:
Originally posted by steve davisStraight frets,nuts and bridges are a compromise.
Best way for lower frets' intonation is to keep the string clearance over the top of the 1st fret at .010" - .011" (feeler gauge or banjo string/no capo needed) which is controlled by the depth of the nut slots.
The banjo has a compensated nut. Straight bridge though. Intonation is fine further up the neck. It's the first few frets. I'll try to measure the clearance. Should that measurement be over the fret wire or to the fretboard?
quote:
Originally posted by pghmattHow many cents sharp are we talking here?
Not a lot but it's often noticeable. It will bring a tuner from the green to to the yellow.
I there's a lot of harmonics and overtones going on with a no knot tail piece and sometimes I think that colors what I'm hearing. I've done the leather trick and decided to just swap out the tail piece to cut down on those.
Yes, taking relief out of the neck with the truss rod, will lower the action at the first fret, and effect intonation there. However, it also lowers the action along the whole neck, and could create new problems, like buzzes. Happily, it’s reversible, so you can carefully adjust it, try it, and go back to the original position, if needed.
This is an interesting subject. When I first read about it, I got my tuner out, and sure enough, every string on every instrument I own was slightly sharp at the first fret. I never notice it when playing. It’s just the laws of physics in action.
quote:
Originally posted by Tleekquote:
Originally posted by steve davisStraight frets,nuts and bridges are a compromise.
Best way for lower frets' intonation is to keep the string clearance over the top of the 1st fret at .010" - .011" (feeler gauge or banjo string/no capo needed) which is controlled by the depth of the nut slots.The banjo has a compensated nut. Straight bridge though. Intonation is fine further up the neck. It's the first few frets. I'll try to measure the clearance. Should that measurement be over the fret wire or to the fretboard?
Measurement is from the top of the 1st fret to the bottom of the strings.This was told to me by a local guitar/banjo luthier.
I keep my banjos at .011" and they play like "buttah".
Edited by - steve davis on 08/22/2026 06:25:40
I just checked the neck relief by capping the first fret and holding down the highest fret. The 4th string was touching the fret wire at the 7th fret.
The action is high though.
Idk what is going on.
Maybe I need to tweak the relief and deepen the nut slots?
quote:
Originally posted by TleekI just checked the neck relief by capoing the first fret and holding down the highest fret. The 4th string was touching the fret wire at the 7th fret.
The action is high though.
Idk what is going on.
Maybe I need to tweak the relief and deepen the nut slots?
When you say the action is high, is it higher than necessary to avoid buzzing? The standard (for steel strings) is 1/8" at the 12th fret. If the neck is more or less straight, too-high action can be addressed with a shorter bridge and/or shimming the neck to increase angle (not recommended if dowel-stick construction).
The main purpose of the truss rod is to adjust relief, which determines how much clearance a fretted string has to vibrate. It is not for setting overall action.
quote:
Originally posted by TleekI just checked the neck relief by capping the first fret and holding down the highest fret. The 4th string was touching the fret wire at the 7th fret.
The action is high though.
Idk what is going on.
Maybe I need to tweak the relief and deepen the nut slots?
The neck has an upbow. You need to sort out that out before doing anything else.
You say you're having trouble keeping the banjo in tune - do you mean you have to keep retuning it, or just that it goes slightly sharp when fretting it? Two different issues there.
My guess is that the builder spent a lot of time on that nut (being compensated and all), so I'd find it less likely the problem starts there. Do all the strings go sharp by the same amount, or just one or two?
With a capo on the 1st fret and fretting the 22nd the 7th fret relief should be .015" to .020".
I keep mine at .015" at the 7th fret.(Top of 7th fret to the bottom of the strings.
Edited by - steve davis on 08/23/2026 05:35:32
quote:
Originally posted by Mickhammerquote:
Originally posted by TleekI just checked the neck relief by capping the first fret and holding down the highest fret. The 4th string was touching the fret wire at the 7th fret.
The action is high though.
Idk what is going on.
Maybe I need to tweak the relief and deepen the nut slots?The neck has an upbow. You need to sort out that out before doing anything else.
You say you're having trouble keeping the banjo in tune - do you mean you have to keep retuning it, or just that it goes slightly sharp when fretting it? Two different issues there.
My guess is that the builder spent a lot of time on that nut (being compensated and all), so I'd find it less likely the problem starts there. Do all the strings go sharp by the same amount, or just one or two?
A bit of both. I find I need to tune it constantly and that first 3-4 frets are sharp. I did adjust the bridge a bit more yesterday and was able to get the first few frets less sharp while staying in tune at the 12th fret. I feel like they all go sharp but particularly the 3rd and 4th strings.
You'll know if the nut is right when you measure the string clearance at the 1st fret.
When you adjust the truss rod loosen it a little bit at a time checking the 7th fret string clearance after each adjustment if it's hitting the 7th fret when capoed at 1 and fretted at 22 it will probably start showing relief after 1/2 turn (loosened) on the truss rod but go with a 1/8 to a 1/4 turn at first.
Edited by - steve davis on 08/23/2026 14:46:22
You might have a high fret.
A common thing with truss rods is that they often only get tightened when adjusted.
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