I’m opposed to shims. If I can’t get it close enough by adjusting the coordinator rod , I’m taking it to Frank Neat or some other reputable set up man. I rarely mess with the truss rod . I have reached for a taller bridge before tho. What ever it takes I guess .

I like a neutral coordinator rods!!  I don't mind a shim.

First I would find out how tall/low a bridge makes your fingers to happiest. Keep in mind that this is a playability issue that many people overlook. It's also a way to save you from having to get used to a bridge height that you may not be comfortable with. Here's how:

https://web.archive.org/web/20170719144727/http://banjobridge.com/sizingabridge.htm

After that you might need to change the neck angled to dial in the the most suitable spot. If the rim is a multiply job then tightening/loosening the bottom co-ord rods could dial-in the desired action height (3 mm & the 12th fret is cool). Oh, DON'T use this method for block-rims!

Out of curiosity Bart. Why is it not advised on block rims ? I only ask because i don’t know and I want to learn . Obliged

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Originally posted by Will Frady

Out of curiosity Bart. Why is it not advised on block rims ? I only ask because i don’t know and I want to learn . Obliged

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The glued up segments, vertical and horizontal, would be pretty much be guaranteed to crack loose from one another. People would get unhappy. And, uh, well, you know, um, uh, that's only my personal experience...

I shim if temporary or sand the neck heel if a long term fit and there is enough wood past the last fret. I use the same bridge height and spacing on all my banjos.

Thank you Bart . That makes sense.

With a banjo properly assembled, neutral co-rods, 90 head tension, my choice of strings, 5/8 bridge, and tuned to play… if the action is slightly high, the very first thing I do is check neck relief. Both of my professional level banjos came to me with slightly high action, and more neck relief than needed. The action on both came in perfectly, with a truss rod adjustment.

I will make small adjustments with the coordinator rods, but if too much adjustment seems necessary I use a shim between the neck heel and rim.

I don't like to use a shorter bridge as it may lead to my picks making noise striking the head. I use 5/8" or .656" bridges. I tried even taller bridges years ago but found them unnecessarily tall. Although they did sound good probably due to higher break angle.

  Clawhammer, Open Back Player        
       with No Coordinator Rods

I check Age of Strings and Head Tension

Then I'm usually good to go.

p.s. If the bridge was good in the past then it probably still is.
I may have to choose another bridge first time out.
Shimming is a no no for me.

P

If I think a Shim is needed then I take it to Mr Burns, my local luthier, so that no shim gets used.

Doug, I think that first you need to figure out what the strings are for, because without them there's no reason for a bridge.

Good luck.  Let us know what you find.
 

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Originally posted by Doug Knecht

Do you choose bridges to fit? Or is it more popular to change the neck angle, which requires some shimming? I usually just get the right bridge height so I don't have to mess with shims.

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Both! Plus a little (very little) coordinator rod adjustment.

On one banjo, I'm using a bridge that's about 0.6 inch -- maybe 1/32 less than 5/8 -- to produce the action I like. I have that size because it was a .656 or maybe 11/16 that I decided I did not need, so I tried sanding it down to 5/8 but went too far. It was a Scorpion. Thought I'd ruined it until it turned out to be the easiest way to lower the action on that one banjo. My picking hand doesn't seem to notice the difference.

Starting from scratch on a setup, I prefer to ask the owner what he wants..5/8", .656, 11/16" etc as far as bridge height..as it affects the string to head distance for playing. Then I adjust the string height off the fingerboard, which may require a bit of heel trimming or a thin shim, slight co-ordinator rod adjustment, etc. If the owner doesn't want any of those adjustments and the standard bridge sizes don't give the required results, then I make them a custom Beaver King bridge.

When would nut slot depth come into play in the grand scheme of action?

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Originally posted by localhost

When would nut slot depth come into play in the grand scheme of action?

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Good question!

I think the player or luthier should determine if action is good in the low frets -- especially the first fret -- before adjusting action at the 22nd. It's my understanding that anything you do to raise or lower action at the 22nd (different bridge, co-rod adjustment, shim, re-cut) is not going to do anything at the first fret. Or nothing measurable.

If action is high at the first fret, nut slots depth can be lowered. If it's too low, then I guess slots to be filled and refiled or the nut replaced.

Relief should be measured and set before action is addressed at either end of the fretboard.

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Originally posted by reubenstump

Doug, I think that first you need to figure out what the strings are for, because without them there's no reason for a bridge.

Good luck.  Let us know what you find.
 

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Good idea.  Thanks for reminding me.