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Originally posted by rinemb

I am such an idiot. I decided to check what the gear ratio is in my rear end, on my 1952 Chevy half-ton. So easy, just jack up the rear axle, spin a tire and count the revolutions of the drive shaft. Great plan, in spirit-not in reality. I forgot that this truck has a torque tube covering the shaft.
So now what...I do not want to pull the differential cover and look at the gears. And there is no tag left on the cover bolts, besides the original gearing may have been already replaced, when I think of how I used to drive it on the highway. Looking back I drove 55 mph for hours at a time. I don't think a 4:11 could do that?
Suggestions? Thanks, Brad

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OK, so jack it up again, put the box in the high hole (1to1) make a mark on the harmonic balancer.  Is the compression so high you can't do that? Pull the plugs. 

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Originally posted by Nopix

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Originally posted by rinemb

I am such an idiot. I decided to check what the gear ratio is in my rear end, on my 1952 Chevy half-ton. So easy, just jack up the rear axle, spin a tire and count the revolutions of the drive shaft. Great plan, in spirit-not in reality. I forgot that this truck has a torque tube covering the shaft.
So now what...I do not want to pull the differential cover and look at the gears. And there is no tag left on the cover bolts, besides the original gearing may have been already replaced, when I think of how I used to drive it on the highway. Looking back I drove 55 mph for hours at a time. I don't think a 4:11 could do that?
Suggestions? Thanks, Brad

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OK, so jack it up again, put the box in the high hole (1to1) make a mark on the harmonic balancer.  Is the compression so high you can't do that? Pull the plugs. 

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I don't think "high" compression would be an issue. :-).  But like your suggestion. Thx

Can I mark and count rotation of harmonic balancer?

I got my Fender tele sold, then I finally got Ol Blue into the shop, after i got all the new cab and doors seals attached. (My goal remains get the truck safe and dependable) The shop will do things I just can't do myself presently. Brakes, lines, and a master cylinder-two reservoir, parking brake fix, rear differential/axle seals, wheel bearings, and new shocks.
I did ask them to count teeth or looking gear markings when they get the rear end cover off, so I can know what gear ratio is in there. If its original it will be 4:11/4::10, or if changed out like I hope it has been, it should be 3:55 or 3:73. I want speed more than I need torque nowadays. Brad

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Originally posted by rinemb

I got my Fender tele sold, then I finally got Ol Blue into the shop, after i got all the new cab and doors seals attached. (My goal remains get the truck safe and dependable) The shop will do things I just can't do myself presently. Brakes, lines, and a master cylinder-two reservoir, parking brake fix, rear differential/axle seals, wheel bearings, and new shocks.
I did ask them to count teeth or looking gear markings when they get the rear end cover off, so I can know what gear ratio is in there. If its original it will be 4:11/4::10, or if changed out like I hope it has been, it should be 3:55 or 3:73. I want speed more than I need torque nowadays. Brad

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Not to mention...better fule economy.. ;0)

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

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Originally posted by rinemb

I got my Fender tele sold, then I finally got Ol Blue into the shop, after i got all the new cab and doors seals attached. (My goal remains get the truck safe and dependable) The shop will do things I just can't do myself presently. Brakes, lines, and a master cylinder-two reservoir, parking brake fix, rear differential/axle seals, wheel bearings, and new shocks.
I did ask them to count teeth or looking gear markings when they get the rear end cover off, so I can know what gear ratio is in there. If its original it will be 4:11/4::10, or if changed out like I hope it has been, it should be 3:55 or 3:73. I want speed more than I need torque nowadays. Brad

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Not to mention...better fule economy.. ;0)

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Good point nowadays!  Brad

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Originally posted by rinemb

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Originally posted by STUD figmo Al

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Originally posted by rinemb

I got my Fender tele sold, then I finally got Ol Blue into the shop, after i got all the new cab and doors seals attached. (My goal remains get the truck safe and dependable) The shop will do things I just can't do myself presently. Brakes, lines, and a master cylinder-two reservoir, parking brake fix, rear differential/axle seals, wheel bearings, and new shocks.
I did ask them to count teeth or looking gear markings when they get the rear end cover off, so I can know what gear ratio is in there. If its original it will be 4:11/4::10, or if changed out like I hope it has been, it should be 3:55 or 3:73. I want speed more than I need torque nowadays. Brad

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Not to mention...better fule economy.. ;0)

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Good point nowadays!  Brad

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Many years of makin good sellin points to me better half...fer projects ovah the years.. ;0)

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Originally posted by rinemb

My old engine plan was…
Find an old 50s 261 block and match it to a 235 head, and get an intake manifold for 3 sync’d Rochesters. Split the exhaust. And swap out the rear end gearing. Swap the tranny for Muncie 4-speed or similar, and convert to 12-volt. And replace the steering box and …………….$$$$……………$$$$………

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A couple of my gear-head buddies modernized their 216s(splash oilers) to the 235 for its oil pump.

Look for the trip carb manifold for the 235.

Converting to 12v/neg. ground is super easy.
The old 6 volt windings in the starter and gauges is heavier than modern 12v and can be used with the new alternator (1 wire).
Old tractors like having a "tickler" to get the alternator to fully charge at lower rpms,but I don't think a highway runner will need to be "tickled".

Reverse the coil wires when changing from pos. ground to negative.

I bought a '57 Ford 850 tractor in the 90s.
The previous owner left it as positive ground,but went to an 8 volt battery and keeping the old generator.That helped it spin over better for starting.
I changed it over to 12v/neg ground,1 wire alternator/neg ground which really "smartened it up".
Now I have a 12v radio and lights and the ability to jump start it with any 12v vehicle or jump a vehicle with the tractor.
I've used the tractor to power a 110 converter for the house during power outages,too.

Well now, finally some important progress. I now have all new brakes-2 pot master cylinder to wheel cylinders, to the shoes and new drums. New rear end gasket, and confirm that it is original 4:11 differential. (I want to convert to 3:55 or less, to gain some higher driving speeds.) I don't need to pull tree stumps anymore in granny gear! Parking brake working now. New shocks are on. New exhaust from beyond the manifold, muffler, and to the tail. (I can breath decent air again while driving! I will now bang on the new dog dishes. And go to the carwash with a couple of bottles of oven cleaner and de-gunk underneath. Next on the list, install the new rubber mat and padding in the cab, and new upholstery. And add turn signals and new tail lights.
But, mainly, now with brakes I can drive it around and haul stuff and look cool, eh.

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Originally posted by rinemb

My old engine plan was…
Find an old 50s 261 block and match it to a 235 head, and get an intake manifold for 3 sync’d Rochesters. Split the exhaust. And swap out the rear end gearing. Swap the tranny for Muncie 4-speed or similar, and convert to 12-volt. And replace the steering box and …………….$$$$……………$$$$………

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I have a guy for that 

I continue to enjoy "baby step" victories. Recently, I discovered the hard way, my generator was not "genrating." Why I did not run diagnostics with my multimeter on the generator and voltage regulator first, I do not know. After a full battery charge with my charger, we went on our first town cruise. It took about 40 minutes for the coil and plugs to drain the battery, leaving me DRT-2 blocks from home. (because of where truck died, I had to call AAA for a tow.) I pulled the generator, and tore it down. After a modified rebuild: clean/sand armature and commutator, brushes, other cleaning, and bearing checks & oil, I put it back together and it bench tested it-getting voltage output! Now I will check the voltage regulator, get it all back together, polarized, and hopefully back on the road again.
...The cruise also highlighted the weeps & leaks. Valve cover, side cover, rear main, and maybe head gasket and water pump. I may have to step up my search for an engine upgrade. And, also change out rear end from the 4:11 to a 3:55 gears to get a bit more speed. Hmmm, arghhh... (I still have "sold my old tele" funds to use) Brad

The journey is part of the fun... :0)