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Anyone who plays an OME banjo ( or anyone who knows what an OME is)

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OME FLORA

From OCEAN BANJO on 1/5/2018 12:07:56 PM

Howdy folks...just returned from New Orleans with a new 12" OME FLORA. Really wonderful tone and appearance! 

My only plan is to put a skin head on it...has anyone done this with their Open Back (old-time) Ome Banjos?

I called the factory and they said it can be a little tough due to the lack of allowances where the neck meets the pot.  

any advice is good. I plan to get a head from John Balch....

 

thanks!

 

 

9 Comments

westsideryan says:
1/5/2018 12:20:01 PM

You may want to take the neck off before putting a skin head on. Someone at Ome told me it was nessecary. I put a skin head on a 12" Wizard and remember having issues with it fitting until I took off the neck. On the other hand, my Phoenix 11" came with a skin head and I was able to remove it fairly easily without taking the neck off.

hoosierrasta says:
1/5/2018 12:30:07 PM

I would reach out to John Balch, he makes and sells nice skinheads.
banjohangout.org/myhangout/hom...p?id=1896

OCEAN BANJO says:
1/5/2018 12:30:08 PM

Thanks for the response. I'll have to look into that. This is my first non-dowel banjo...

hoosierrasta says:
1/5/2018 12:31:24 PM

Congrat's BTW!
I love my OME's!

OCEAN BANJO says:
1/5/2018 12:36:49 PM

thanks hoosierrasta...i have email John.

jack_beuthin says:
1/5/2018 3:16:55 PM

I had a J Balch skin head on my 12” Flora for a while but recently went back to the ren head. I liked it but it stretched too much and lead me down a rabbit hole of changing bridges and adjusting the tailpiece. As has been said, be careful to loosen the neck when you change the head. You should loosen both the lag bolt and the rim rod. The tolerances are exacting for the neck fit to the rim. I had a long chat with Tanya about this about a month ago. Very important that the hoop on the head does not make contact with the base of the rim notch in the heel of the neck. Pressure there can cause a crack in the heel. This applies to any type of head. After the new head is on, re-affix the neck by first tightening the lag bolt and rim rod, then snugging up the screw at the tail end of the rim rod. If you need to adjust the action, it is best to try different bridge heights rather than further messing with the rim rod. If I’m doubt, call Ome. Tanya or Rich will talk you through. And congratulations, the Flora is a marvelous banjo. I’ve had mine for almost seven years.

OCEAN BANJO says:
1/5/2018 3:44:45 PM

thanks Jack. i talked to Tonya yesterday and thats why i wanted to get some further, personal experience, opinions.
did you have a calf or goat head? also what bridge do you currently use ? thanks

jack_beuthin says:
1/5/2018 6:16:06 PM

I had goatskin. With the ren head I have gone back to the original 3/4” ebony topped Maple bridge. When I had the skin head I used a lighter weight bridge made by Bart Veerman. Since the goatskin made the tone even warmer, the lighter bridge brought back a little brightness. You just have to play around with what you like. Once you get the skin head I would let it settle in for a good while before swapping bridges. When I tinker I try to work with one variable at a time. And of course, every head is different, even the synthetic ones. Some stretch more, some less, some not at all.

OCEAN BANJO says:
2/4/2018 8:57:41 AM

Well, after some time & unprecedented climate fluctuations I've managed to keep my Flora set to the factory standard and she is more alive each day! This instrument has a very tight and specific voice. I play with some bluegrass pickers & this is the only banjo I have found that can sit under a mastertone type banjar & not get in the way.....in fact the spectrum widens & there is some fun to be had. The nut and string spacing is great...drop thumb is easier than on most banjos. I may still put a goat skin on her....but down the road....I think I want to see how she's doing after the spring rolls in....


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