Hi guys, I'm going to be buying a conversion at some point in the near future. I'd like to know more of the advantages/disadvantages, or the differences between style 1, 2 and 3 conversions. Im interested to hear your opinions.
9 Comments |
 | plunka5 says:
7/27/2013 8:14:16 PM
Chris, you have stated that you are investigating the ads/dis of style 1,2 and 3 conversions. You must also decide whether you want OPF's (one-piece flanges), tube-and-plate style 3's to be included, and/or style 1 bracket-shoe banjos to be included in the mix as well.
You may want to check out Greg Earnest's invaluable website on pre-war Gibson banjos to further your knowledge of the differences. Also, you may want to converse with some of the selected administrators on this "group" page, as well as those established in the "conversion" banjo arena. I wish you great success with your hunt! :)
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 | Chris Cooper says:
7/28/2013 12:46:15 AM
I'm thinking specifically about OPF, I think I'm right in saying that generally the style 1 had maple resonator stained dark chocolate brown. Style 2 had the same with walnut vaneers. And the style 3 had mahogany resonator.
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 | alanjg1 says:
7/28/2013 2:34:25 PM
Something else to consider (assuming you're looking for a flathead): cut rim with flathead ring or uncut rim with a conversion ring.
Also your budget is a big factor.
Alan
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| Chris Cooper says:
7/28/2013 3:04:31 PM
Hi Alan! How are you?
Now were talking about things I didn't know about. I haven't heard of a conversion ring before, I thought that the rim HAD to be cut to fit a flathead ring.
I'm guessing a conversion ring is designed to fit the rim without it having to be cut. How does it work? What difference does it make to the sound when compared to a cut rim and standard flathead ring?
My budget is as yet undecided, i am more than happy to sit tight and save money to get the right instrument.
I'm just putting the feelers out at this point in time. Trying to learn as much as possible to give me the knowledge I need to make a good purchase. Ive been casting my eyes over stacks of advertisements and I've noticed huge differences in price between what appear to a novice eye, to be very similar style-3 conversions in similar condition etc. Why is this?
The other thing ive noticed is that many of the conversions I have seen have had major alterations made to them, such as hardware completely replaced. Why is this the case and is this what causes such dramatic fluctuations in price?
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| alanjg1 says:
7/28/2013 4:57:05 PM
Hi Chris,
You're doing the right thing by trying to learn as much as possible before you make a purchase.
I've been a big PW Gibson fan for many years and still enjoy learning about these great banjos.
I agree with plunka5's advice to check out Greg Earnest's website. Some fabulous banjos and information there.
Also have a look at the Banjothon videos on youtube. This is a gathering that I'd love to attend sometime.
There are some great interviews and demo's on there. Also the enthusiasm for the instruments is infectious.
You're right about the conversion ring. It fits onto an archtop rim without the need to cut the rim. I've got a Blaylock conversion ring in my style 3 and it sounds great. I have the archtop ring so it can easily be put back to original spec.
Regarding the fluctuations in price in similar banjos, it could be down to a few things but I'm guessing probably originality. The collectors value this above many other things.
I'd be happy to talk specifics with you if you wish, just pm me and we can go from there.
Cheers for now.
Alan
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plumpfingers says:
7/28/2013 9:37:05 PM
I too have been looking at PW Gibsons and experienced the same confusion as Chris. To add to the confusion, it seems to me that the pre-1930's models are quite a bit less expensive apparently because they generally are archtops and 2piece flanges which are valued lower (but maybe sound as good?). Anyway, I was wondering why one wouldn't buy a much less expensive 1925 or so archtop and pay to have it converted to a flattop with a new tonering? The total cost would still be quite a bit less than a 1930's model and I think you end up with a similar banjo. I'm probably missing something in my thinking so would appreciate any thoughts from those more knowledgeable.
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 | moparcolt says:
9/16/2013 8:23:50 PM
Just like anything else the desiability of the later banjos (after 1929 opf's) make them worth more money. Not necessarily better. Just worth more.
The earlier pre 1930 tube and plate banjos are actually a better built instrument in my opinion. They have a thicker rim and better flange that won't warp or deteriorate.
The styling is different with the fiddle headstock and simpler inlays. But you could always put a newer style neck with a different headstock on it if you like a different look.
I have a 29 TB 3 archtop and I love it. It isn't worth huge money but is a great sounding instrument.
Having original hardware is also a big factor in value. Having the original parts is much more desirable in an instrument.
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 | eljimb0 says:
11/15/2013 12:51:09 AM
If you are willing to commit a few thousand bucks toward this pursuit..choosing a 1 a 2 or a 1-1 tenor to start with may be conceivable idea.
however.....
Most people a looking for a great deal on a tenor that just stumbles into the thrift store for 300 bucks.. When that one comes along.... which if it happens once in your lifetime ...is better than average. You build the best banjo you can with what you get.
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 | steve davis says:
5/1/2014 3:42:36 PM
I was in a music store for a set of strings and an employee came over to me and said that the owner was in a selling mood and that I should ask him about an old tb2(opf) that he's had for 30 years.
I did and bought it for $600,complete. and used very little.
Sometimes the planets align.
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