cbbolling's blog entry caused me to think about the way I set-up my Reiter banjos.
I consider "set-up' as essential to making any banjo work for me. Rarely do I ever find any "new", "off-the-shelf" banjo that is totally ready to go. That is true of Bart's instruments and every other brand I've tried.
One thing I really like about Reiter banjos is that they respond well to the kind of set-up changes I usually make to get my sound. I can easily tailor the sound to my taste. They are capable of a big range of tones.
I usually install: Calfskin heads, Gary Sosebee bridges, and Prucha Presto tailpieces ( or....no knots if I'm using nylon or gut strings).
22 Comments |
kevinwholmes says:
2/4/2011 7:59:20 AM
I've had my one and only Reiter Standard for about 6 years now, and over time, in order of listing, I put on a taller bridge, put on ebony tuning buttons (looks only), put on nylon strings, and most recently put on a Fielding tailpice. I personally have a hard time putting nylon strings on a no-knot; I feel like I need a third hand. The Fielding is easier to tie nylon strings on (for me, anyway) and brings the strings a bit further forward and higher on the tailpiece end. It made quite a different sound that I really like.
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 | the-fish says:
2/4/2011 10:56:37 AM
I played around quite a bit on my Reiter tubaphone. all sorts of heads, bridges, head tensions and tail pieces. the best result came from using a standard no-knot tail. this blew me away thinking that the Fielding Tp was the cats meow! But, its nice to know as your stated you can change to most any tone you want on these bad boys... Ive got nyl-gut on the tuba now, and really like it a lot
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kevinwholmes says:
2/4/2011 11:45:34 AM
I forgot to mention I put on a pre-mounted Gold Tone skin head which was a BEAR to install. It actually came with instructions on how to modify your banjo if it didn't fit. Fortunately I was able to get the head to fit by filing down part of the head mounting ring. It did make it sound better... warmer... and it even feels nicer on my right hand than the 5-star head that was originally on it.
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 | Kole says:
2/5/2011 4:36:59 PM
I got a Reiter White Ladyie (1996). I took off the fiberskin head and replaced it with a reaissance. Changed the bridge to a Sosebee and maintained the original tailpiece. Very sweet tone. Thats all the set-up mine needed to make me happy.
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 | ponty says:
2/6/2011 12:20:58 PM
Does anyone use the Fibreskin Head? I note that Reiter s over recent years have gone from Fibreskin, Five Star, and currently Renaissance. Do you think Bart has done this to feed popular demand, or another reason?
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kevinwholmes says:
2/6/2011 2:19:23 PM
I've used them all, and of the synthetic heads I prefer the Renaissance. Ultimately, I prefer a genuine skin head.
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 | jbalch says:
2/6/2011 2:57:09 PM
I used the original equipment fiberskyn heads on all my Reiter banjos for many years. My Carry On John CD was recorded using the 1994 Grand Concert with all its original equipment incl: fiberskyn head, OEM bridge and Waverly tailpiece. I think it sounded really great in the studio.
A few years ago, I began installing skin heads on vintage restorations. That is how I developed a preference for natural hide. I do think thay have a unique sound that is worth the hassle. I mount them myself and now have calf or goat skin on all my openback banjos.
I know that fiberskin is not as popular as a few years ago. There are more options available and I think fiberskin gets a bad rap. Personally, I prefer them over renaissance or frosted heads for clawhanner. If I did not use natural skin, I'd probably go back to fiberskyn.
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| ponty says:
2/6/2011 7:23:13 PM
MMmm.. Interesting. I think I am going to try a Fiberskyn. Were I live is very humid in Summer and a real skin just may not hold up.
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| the-fish says:
2/7/2011 9:58:43 AM
how about tail pieces? both of my tubaphone banjos came set up with the fiberskyn head, and the waverly type tail Mr. Reiter used to use. on my BB tubaphone, I have a fielding bridge, nlygut strings and the waverly. on the other standard tubaphone I owned I tried waverly, fielding, and no knot. as mentioned the no-knot was best. to my ear
anyone keep the waverly on? I believe he stopped using them
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| jbalch says:
2/7/2011 10:45:53 AM
Until recently, I used the original Waverly tailpieces on my older Reiters...and no-knot on the 2006.
But when I was experimenting with the 2006 Galax-plus, I tried a pre-war Grover Patent Presto...just for kicks. Turns out...I really like the sound of the Presto. I have recently replaced the Waverly tailpieces (on my older banjos) with new Prucha Prestos.
I have have a reproduction cammed no-knot on my fretless. I sometimes set that banjo with nylon strings. The no-knot works great for any string type.
The original tailpieces are in the cases...I like to keep them with the banjo.
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| the-fish says:
2/9/2011 6:24:32 AM
excellent!
I only have the one Reiter now, the bracket band tubaphone custom I believe, with the flowerpot inlay. I really love playing it. Im really excited to break a string or something so I can try steel strings on it, but enjoy it the way it is now.. Barts banjos are tops in my book
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 | cbbolling says:
2/9/2011 11:02:21 AM
I switched to Nylguts on my Fretless standard and it has made all the difference in the world. Hopefully a higher bridge will fix the low action and it'll be perfect!!
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chrisherrin says:
2/18/2011 8:21:50 PM
I have read mention about low action. I like mine a little high. I am wondering what height bridges yall use. With the 5/8 that comes on it is it pretty low?
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| jbalch says:
2/18/2011 8:31:58 PM
With calfskin heads, I use 11/16" bridges. I Even stretched tight, my calf heads tent to sag a more than mylar. So the extra 1/16" helps.
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chrisherrin says:
2/18/2011 9:09:41 PM
I have a Standard that will be here on Monday. I have a Bill Miller Vellum I will probably put on. I do also have a Renn and a Fiberskyn. I was thinkin of orderin a few bridges. Do you know anything of Sosebee's Submerged? Which do you use? I love the sound of yours. Thank you.
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| jbalch says:
2/19/2011 5:09:32 AM
Chris: I use Gary's "select" bridges (not the submurged wood). I have a bunch of them made from various batches of wood that he has used over the years.
In my experience, the submurged wood bridges add a little extra sustain to the sound. You might like that on a Standard model. But I have not needed it on my Reiter banjos (with tone rings).
It might be best to install the head of your choice first, then consider what bridge(s) to try. I always recommend changing only one variable at a time. That way you can evaluate each change individually and decide if you like it.
One more thing, when you install a calfskin head, give it several days to settle and get the tension set where you want it before you evaluate. Natural hide requires a little patience...but it is well worth the time IMHO. Best Wishes!
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 | KS_Mike says:
4/24/2011 6:32:13 AM
When installing a skin head on a Reiter (standard), is it necessary to remove or loosen the neck? I'd like to try a calfskin head but I'm afraid I'd never get my banjo back together!
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| jbalch says:
4/24/2011 6:48:51 AM
Mike: If you insall a pre-mounted head (from Bill Miller or another source), there is no need to remove the neck. It just goes on like any other head.
When mounting a new flat hide on a flesh hoop, I do remove the neck to make the job easier. But it is really a simple job.
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 | LA JONES says:
7/5/2012 4:56:40 PM
I just picked up a Reiter Standard. I wanted something a bit brighter than the Enoch Dobson I previously owned. The Reiter is a bit brighter than I wanted... what can I do to soften it up a bit? I wonder if a Fiberskyn might bring in down just a touch?
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| jbalch says:
7/5/2012 5:30:59 PM
What head is on it now? Renaissance? 5-star?
Before you change the head, you could try loosening it just a little. You might need a taller bridge. If you replace the bridge, choose something a little heavier,
Also, you can stuff a rolled-up cloth (or other soft dampening material) between the dowel and head. Obviously, you can vary the amount of stuffing for more or less impact.
Fiberskin would probably tone it down a little more. But the other changes (lower tension and thicker bridge) might be helpful even with fyberskin.
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| LA JONES says:
7/5/2012 11:04:11 PM
The head appears to be an Elite Amber head... which I am told is identical to a Remo Renaissance head. I have tried loosening the head and a rolled up cloth. The rolled up cloth had the best impact. The heavier bridge is a good idea. I think I will order a Fiberskyn head... are they only made by REMO? Any bridge recommendations. Thanks.
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| jbalch says:
7/6/2012 5:59:56 AM
As far as bridges go, experimention is the best way to find your ideal choice. Personally, I prefer a bright sound with clear sustain. I use Gary Sosebee bridges. But that might not be what you are seeking.
Sampson bridges are a popular choice with old-time players. They are very finely made and have a good bit of mass.
Many folks recommend a Moon Heavy bridge.
Arthur Hatfield in Kentucky makes great compensated bridges. He prefers them thick and heavy. Arthur can supply a thick bridge if you request (good value too).
My recommendation is to change only one thing at a time. In other words, change either the head or bridge first ...then evaluate. If you still want more impact ... then change the other. That way you have a good idea of the impact each change has made.
Experiment with stuffing the back too. Try different sizes and materials. I dont often stuff my banjos. But I sometimes use small pieces of upholstery foam.
I think Stewart McDonald markets the "Elite" heads. They are made by REMO and branded for Stew-Mac. I think they are the same as REMO Renaissance and/or Fyberskin.
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