SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  11:20:37

facebook.com/marketplace/item/...a09aeabe6

I found this Conrad banjo on marketplace. I'm looking to upgrade from a really crappy $50 banjo I bought awhile ago. I kept getting conflicting opinions on whether this is a good deal or an overpriced bottlecap, and was told to post here. Any advice is appreciated!

Also, if you have tips on questions to ask the seller, or other banjos / places to look to buy an upgrade, please let me know.

banjered - Posted - 03/25/2026:  11:31:19

Looks like a friction peg tuner for the fifth string which don't work well with steel strings which is what the rest of the banjo is designed for. From what I see I would not buy it if I did not have the chance to try it out in person. banjered

gbisignani - Posted - 03/25/2026:  11:48:48

Looks a lot like my 70's Japanese Kasuga. I know there are a lot of brands that are the same banjo. If this is the same as the Kasuga then my opinion is a good deal. I wish I still had mine !

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  11:51:06

That's a fine banjo to upgrade to from a bottlecap. The 1972 Aria version of this was my second banjo, an upgrade from an aluminum-rimmed starter. Not the bottlecap type.

I believe the white binding puts this at 1974-76. The exact pearl pattern on the back is new to me, but I'm not familiar with the Conrad version. These bowtie pre-Masterclones were made in Japan by Kasuga and sold with many different names on them.

In their day, they were the only banjos at retail with wood rim, flat head tone ring, flange, and resonator that wasn't made in USA and expensive. In May 1972 the Aria version with same brown case (I assume fake learher) cost $180 in the DC area. I took the plain black case for the lower model and paid $170.

Well setup and adjusted these sound very good. You can jam and gig with this, though you might sometimes be drowned out.

They have their shortcomings. The rims are very lightweight wood and many plies. Almost plywood. The tone ring is loosely fit. The inside lower edge over-hangs the rim on a lot of these. So did the ring on some '60s Gibsons. The tone ring is pot metal, not any kind of bronze or brass. And the head on some is not a full 11 inches. Maybe 1/8 or 1/16 less. I actually have two tone rings from Kasuga banjos and neither is 11 inches.

I think the asking price is reasonable. It's also reasonable to negotiate. No harm in offering $50 less and maybe settling for $25 less.

You'll want to replace the original friction fifth tuner with a geared tuner. The imitation Kluson tuners on the peghead are serviceable, but replacement with planetaries -- even the cheap Asian kind-- is worth doing. I believe these tuners all wind the same direction (instead of opposite sides winding opposite direction like planets).

Nothing specific for you to ask the seller.

Good luck.

The Old Timer - Posted - 03/25/2026:  13:07:55

That's an excellent price for an OK intermediate banjo.

Everything "looks" ok in the photos. You don't really need to replace anything -- all those parts are standard for that time period and work ok. They work.

Ask the seller if it's "playable" -- hopefully the seller is a picker and can tell you he/she has played it a lot with no issues. You can't tell from the photos the the height of the strings above the frets are decently playable -- not too low (rubbing on the strings) nor too high (unplayably too high). You want a banjo you can take out of the case and play happily with no more adjustment than the placement of the bridge. If you have an experienced banjo friend who can assist you with setting up the action, that's fine. You just need to know that everything on the banjo that permits adjustments is in good shape.

Good luck.

The case has a problem -- both hinges appear to be broken and replaced with big pieces of leather. Just make sure it closes and latches securely.

Banner Blue - Posted - 03/25/2026:  13:57:31

Yes, this is a Kasuga-made Japanese banjo. Made to compete/be comparable with Gibson RB250 banjos of the period. Sold under lots of different names. Dorado, Conrad, Alvarez, Aria, Aoyama etc. I have seen the Alvarez labeled version of this banjo priced around $600 and sell quickly. The same otherwise identical banjo with a less recognized name priced in the $300 to $500 range. If the frets are good, truss rod works, neck angle is okay, tuners are serviceable, etc, it is a good risk at $300. These issues apply to any used banjo. Like any used banjo make sure you are not buying someone else's problem.

pinenut - Posted - 03/25/2026:  14:01:15

quote:

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Originally posted by Old Hickory

They have their shortcomings.

The rims are very lightweight wood and many plies. Almost plywood. The tone ring is loosely fit. The inside lower edge over-hangs the rim on a lot of these. So did the ring on some '60s Gibsons.  Good candidate for a hardwood rim replacement.

Good luck.

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Everything Ken says plus the necks are slim, very stable and play nice.

Check the wood rim for crushing/cracking between the tone ring and the flange, especially at the bottom.  At this price it's not necessarily a deal killer; just something to be aware of...

Edited by - pinenut on 03/25/2026 14:16:08

Banner Blue - Posted - 03/25/2026:  14:24:23

Kam's comment reminded me that I have seem a few of these Kasuga banjos with the flange deteriorating in terms of crumbling or blistering. Most are fine.

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  14:41:46

quote:

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Originally posted by Banner Blue

Kam's comment reminded me that I have seem a few of these Kasuga banjos with the flange deteriorating in terms of crumbling or blistering. Most are fine.

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I've got two I bought for projects that are never going to happen. Need to list them some day.

Fun fact about these flanges: Their lower inside diameter is only 10-5/8 or thereabouts. Leads to a thinner skirt rim if you have one turned to fit. BUT if you mill/grind away the lower step to make the inside flush walled like a Deering flange, you end up with something about 10-3/4, which means the top bead of the flange will but up against the underside of the band of wood around the rim. It will then work with a rim cut for 10-11/16 flange. Maybe even 10-13/16 if the fit was loose.

Will post pictures later showing what I'm describing.

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  16:27:50

quote:

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Originally posted by The Old Timer

That's an excellent price for an OK intermediate banjo.



Everything "looks" ok in the photos. You don't really need to replace anything -- all those parts are standard for that time period and work ok. They work.



Ask the seller if it's "playable" -- hopefully the seller is a picker and can tell you he/she has played it a lot with no issues. You can't tell from the photos the the height of the strings above the frets are decently playable -- not too low (rubbing on the strings) nor too high (unplayably too high). You want a banjo you can take out of the case and play happily with no more adjustment than the placement of the bridge. If you have an experienced banjo friend who can assist you with setting up the action, that's fine. You just need to know that everything on the banjo that permits adjustments is in good shape.



Good luck.



The case has a problem -- both hinges appear to be broken and replaced with big pieces of leather. Just make sure it closes and latches securely.

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Thanks for the reply. The action is one of the reasons I want to replace my current banjo. Do you think this banjo has a truss rod? I assume that is how you adjust the action? I do have an experienced friend who could help with that. 

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  16:32:24

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Everything Ken says plus the necks are slim, very stable and play nice.

Check the wood rim for crushing/cracking between the tone ring and the flange, especially at the bottom.  At this price it's not necessarily a deal killer; just something to be aware of...

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Is the slim neck going to be an issue for playing? The neck of my current banjo is slim, but I think the issue is that the frets are bad more than anything. 

pinenut - Posted - 03/25/2026:  16:41:21

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

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Everything Ken says plus the necks are slim, very stable and play nice.

Check the wood rim for crushing/cracking between the tone ring and the flange, especially at the bottom.  At this price it's not necessarily a deal killer; just something to be aware of...

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Is the slim neck going to be an issue for playing? The neck of my current banjo is slim, but I think the issue is that the frets are bad more than anything. 

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Hi Brendan,

I like the feel of the Japanese necks from this era; it should not present an issue to playing.

Yes, it should have a truss rod.  The banjo that I have worked with had the same flange, peghead, overall look/shape and a single action truss rod in the neck.

Edited by - pinenut on 03/25/2026 16:47:42

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  16:48:24

quote:

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

Do you think this banjo has a truss rod? I assume that is how you adjust the action? I do have an experienced friend who could help with that. 

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You assume incorrectly.

Yes, this banjo has a truss rod. An old-style one-way rod. It's inside the neck.

The purpose of the truss rod is not adjust action (string height). It's to help the neck resist the pressure of the strings pulling it into too much up-bow. But some up-bow -- called relief -- is desirable, to prevent buzzing in the low frets and promote gradual increase of action along the full length of the neck.

Action can be adjusted with a coordinator rod, which is inside the pot. This banjo has one.  Some people say don't adjust action with the coordinator rod because it distorts the rim. Yes, it does. But only a little for the very little action change you should ever try to obtain with the coordinator rod. But this banjo doesn't have a high quality rim -- so any slight distortion of the rim in this banjo to adjust action is not likely to do any harm.

And the action is typically pretty good on these.

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  17:39:01

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You assume incorrectly.

Yes, this banjo has a truss rod. An old-style one-way rod. It's inside the neck.

The purpose of the truss rod is not adjust action (string height). It's to help the neck resist the pressure of the strings pulling it into too much up-bow. But some up-bow -- called relief -- is desirable, to prevent buzzing in the low frets and promote gradual increase of action along the full length of the neck.

Action can be adjusted with a coordinator rod, which is inside the pot. This banjo has one.  Some people say don't adjust action with the coordinator rod because it distorts the rim. Yes, it does. But only a little for the very little action change you should ever try to obtain with the coordinator rod. But this banjo doesn't have a high quality rim -- so any slight distortion of the rim in this banjo to adjust action is not likely to do any harm.

And the action is typically pretty good on these.

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As for looking around for other deals, my friend recommended looking for banjos on guitar center. I found a couple options that people seem to recommend:

Gold tone CC-50 for $300

Recording King Dirty 30s for $469

This does not include shipping of course, but are either of these comparative to the Conrad? They may be less risk since they're from guitar center. Also, they're open-backs, which I'm not necessarily opposed to, but I feel like I would rather get a resonator. Does it matter that much? I want to play both bluegrass and clawhammer eventually.

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  17:43:32

In my opinion, they are less banjo.

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  17:55:24

Sorry, not sure what you mean!

tdennis - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:01:28

This Conrad by Kasuga is a decent deal. I have the identical instrument labeled "Ventura', w/ the same inlays. These are excellent intermediate banjos that could perform well on stage, or in a jam.

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:14:11

Thank you for the reply.

Do you think I should spend a little more to get something nicer? I know it's all relative to my budget, but I'm willing to spend a bit more if I could get an instrument that is significantly better.

For example, I found this for $575. banjobuyer.com/banjo/113707

I also found a Record King Dirty 30s for $300 on the same site, which I hear is a good beginner banjo. How do these compare to the conrad?

pinenut - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:14:53

quote:

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

Sorry, not sure what you mean!

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As it sits, the Conrad should have a bigger voice with greater range than those two.  If the tuners, coordinator rod, rim and tone ring are upgraded on the Conrad; it will 'sound' and potentially play like a professional instrument (think, sleeper car).

The CC-50 and the Dirty Thirties are not 'upgradable' to a full professional sound and feel, per se.  Although, the Dirty Thirties isn't too bad for old time...

Edited by - pinenut on 03/25/2026 19:19:21

pinenut - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:31:42

Here is decent used option; arguably better.  I am more comfortable recommending this more robust build type, it's the made in Japan version of what Epiphone eventually shifted into the MB-250.

It looks fine; what do the other guys have to say?

ebay.com/itm/236710059191?

Edited by - pinenut on 03/25/2026 19:46:30

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:45:47

quote:

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

Sorry, not sure what you mean!

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The CC50 and Dirty Thirties open back are beginner instruments. Maybe in better shape than your current "$50" banjo, but if that's also a type of beginner instrument, just older, neither of these two is necessarily the upgrade you're looking for.

Neither would I consider them upgrades from the Conrad, which in its basic design copies the concept -- though not the overall quality -- of the Gibson Mastertone platform: cast metal tone ring; mounted on a wood rim; held together with a flange, tension hoop and hooks and nuts; plus resonator. I could compare the Conrad to the CC50 and Dirty Thirties feeature-by-feature but this would become longer than I want to write.

I think the Conrad is a better value because it's a banjo that has the basic design of a really good instrument, is of sufficient quality and adjustability to help you become a better player. I believe it's capable of sounding better than the other two. It has more tonal range.

But I can't tell you what to buy or what purchase you're comfortable making.

Good luck.

SoupyNarwhal - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:53:49

The CC-50 and the Dirty Thirties are not 'upgradable' to a full professional sound and feel, per se.  Although, the Dirty Thirties isn't too bad for old time...

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Is a CC-50 the same thing as the one I linked, the CC-100R?

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  19:56:44

quote:

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Originally posted by pinenut

Here is decent used option; arguably better.  I am more comfortable recommending this more robust build type, it's the made in Japan version of what Epiphone eventually shifted into the MB-250.

It looks fine; what do the other guys have to say?

ebay.com/itm/236710059191?

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Yes!

it's better than the Conrad. Unlike the Conrad that was based on the Mastertone idea, this Cortez is one of the early Masterclones. Much more complete Mastertone copies. The tone ring is going to be heavier, the rim thicker (in part because of the two-piece flange). This banjo will probably be louder and capable of even more different tones, responding to how and where the player picks.

Tje seller says it was made in Japan. That puts it in an era of the early desirable copies. Maybe not the level of a Tokai or Gold Star. But really good.

And the price is super low. Even with the high shipping.

This is the best banjo in this discussion so far.

Edited by - Old Hickory on 03/25/2026 19:57:35

pinenut - Posted - 03/25/2026:  20:13:49

quote:

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Originally posted by Old Hickory

quote:

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Originally posted by pinenut

Here is decent used option; arguably better.  I am more comfortable recommending this more robust build type (made in Japan, TPF)

It looks sound; what do the other guys have to say?

ebay.com/itm/236710059191?

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Yes!

it's better than the Conrad. Unlike the Conrad that was based on the Mastertone idea, this Cortez is one of the early Masterclones. Much more complete Mastertone copies. The tone ring is going to be heavier, the rim thicker (in part because of the two-piece flange). This banjo will probably be louder and capable of even more different tones, responding to how and where the player picks.

The seller says it was made in Japan. That puts it in an era of the early desirable copies. Maybe not the level of a Tokai or Gold Star. But really good.

And the price is super low. Even with the high shipping.

This is the best banjo in this discussion so far.

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Sweet.  I'm glad Ken agrees.   

P.S.  now that we've advertised it; the purchase window is probably going to close within the day...  sorry.

Edited by - pinenut on 03/25/2026 20:27:23

Old Hickory - Posted - 03/25/2026:  21:14:56

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

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Is a CC-50 the same thing as the one I linked, the CC-100R?

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The CC-50 is an open back. The CC-100R has a resonator.

But even the open back CC-100 is not the same thing as the CC-50. It's supposed to be a slightly higher level, but I sure don't know what sets it apart. Maybe the wood. 

There's also a CC-50RP (resonator and planetary tuners) model. A decent value in a starter instrument.

The Old Timer - Posted - 03/25/2026:  21:16:12

Mr Narwhal, Old Hickory answered your question (truss rod, etc) as I would have.

Can you get the seller to make a video of the banjo being played? That's all you need to know, that it's playable action. An amateur could take ANY banjo apart and fail to put it back together correctly and end up with unplayable action (too low or high). If it's fit to be played in a video, that's all you need to know.

You're getting a lot of advice, and I can sense that you're not sure you want to buy this Conrad even if it's OK. For $300, buy the thing if it's playable, and trade up later. Get busy picking!

GrahamHawker - Posted - 03/26/2026:  00:59:06

quote:

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Originally posted by SoupyNarwhal

Thank you for the reply.



Do you think I should spend a little more to get something nicer? I know it's all relative to my budget, but I'm willing to spend a bit more if I could get an instrument that is significantly better.



For example, I found this for $575. banjobuyer.com/banjo/113707

 

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This is not significantly better. It won't compete in sound with a flathead tone ring banjo like the Conrad. If you want  better you need to find something like a used Recording King RK-35 or R36 or Goldtone OB150.

PrairieSchooner - Posted - 03/26/2026:  09:54:11

I had one like the Conrad labeled Alvarez. Decent banjo, you'd probably want to swap out the tuners and add a geared 5th; I know I did. Good value at $300 in my opinion.

Dan Gellert - Posted - 03/27/2026:  09:24:31

Way more banjo than anything new @ 2x that price.

Julio B - Posted - 05/01/2026:  20:36:25

Do not buy the piece of crap. I would recommend spending a few dollars more to get a new or used Deering. It will sound good, will last, and will not need constant tweaking.

Old Hickory - Posted - 05/01/2026:  21:13:28

quote:

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Originally posted by Julio B

Do not buy the piece of crap. I would recommend spending a few dollars more to get a new or used Deering. It will sound good, will last, and will not need constant tweaking.

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Exactly what new or used Deering will be a significantly better banjo for only a few dollars more? 

Edited by - Old Hickory on 05/01/2026 21:20:55

Julio B - Posted - 05/01/2026:  21:30:52

I own two pre-war flatheads PLUS a Deering goodtime. Any money spent on
cheap foreign junk i forever lost. A real banjo will last a lifetime, ie, a few pennies per day,