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 ARCHIVED TOPIC: Drum Brake Issue and Diagnosis


Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/407866

rinemb - Posted - 03/23/2026:  06:38:47


Reminder: My 1952 Chevy truck slept for 15-20 years in my garage. I got running again, but brakes are not working, after refilling the master cylinder. The first time I took it out I had some braking for a few blocks, then the pedal just went to the floor with no resistance. Next time out I had a firm pedal but maybe only a trace or less of brake action.
Hmmm, bad piston in MC, seized up wheel cylinders, blockage in lines, bad shoes and drums?
What is your best guess. Brad (I am thinking about diagnosis, or replace a part-check it out, replace another part-check it out until I have brakes finally. Or buy and entire 500.00 kit, and have everything I might need?)

pinenut - Posted - 03/23/2026:  07:30:43


quote:

Originally posted by rinemb

Reminder: My 1952 Chevy truck slept for 15-20 years in my garage. I got running again, but brakes are not working, after refilling the master cylinder. The first time I took it out I had some braking for a few blocks, then the pedal just went to the floor with no resistance. Next time out I had a firm pedal but maybe only a trace or less of brake action.

Hmmm, bad piston in MC, seized up wheel cylinders, blockage in lines, bad shoes and drums?

What is your best guess. Brad (I am thinking about diagnosis, or replace a part-check it out, replace another part-check it out until I have brakes finally. Or buy and entire 500.00 kit, and have everything I might need?)






Safety and good practice 'upgrade': 



If it's still a single pot master; replace it with the dual (usually the Mustang type).   Remember to add the right check valves for the drums if not integral to the new master.


Edited by - pinenut on 03/23/2026 07:31:44

rinemb - Posted - 03/23/2026:  07:52:17


quote:

Originally posted by pinenut

quote:

Originally posted by rinemb

Reminder: My 1952 Chevy truck slept for 15-20 years in my garage. I got running again, but brakes are not working, after refilling the master cylinder. The first time I took it out I had some braking for a few blocks, then the pedal just went to the floor with no resistance. Next time out I had a firm pedal but maybe only a trace or less of brake action.

Hmmm, bad piston in MC, seized up wheel cylinders, blockage in lines, bad shoes and drums?

What is your best guess. Brad (I am thinking about diagnosis, or replace a part-check it out, replace another part-check it out until I have brakes finally. Or buy and entire 500.00 kit, and have everything I might need?)






Safety and good practice 'upgrade': 



If it's still a single pot master; replace it with the dual (usually the Mustang type).   Remember to add the right check valves for the drums if not integral to the new master.






My MC is the single pot.  However, a dual pot conversion from the Classic parts Auto, that looks much like original single pot and fits the hookup under the cab floor just like the single.  Maybe that eliminates the concern for the check valves?  Brad

pinenut - Posted - 03/23/2026:  08:09:39


quote:

Originally posted by rinemb

quote:

Originally posted by pinenut

quote:

Originally posted by rinemb

Reminder: My 1952 Chevy truck slept for 15-20 years in my garage. I got running again, but brakes are not working, after refilling the master cylinder. The first time I took it out I had some braking for a few blocks, then the pedal just went to the floor with no resistance. Next time out I had a firm pedal but maybe only a trace or less of brake action.

Hmmm, bad piston in MC, seized up wheel cylinders, blockage in lines, bad shoes and drums?

What is your best guess. Brad (I am thinking about diagnosis, or replace a part-check it out, replace another part-check it out until I have brakes finally. Or buy and entire 500.00 kit, and have everything I might need?)






Safety and good practice 'upgrade': 



If it's still a single pot master; replace it with the dual (usually the Mustang type).   Remember to add the right check valves for the drums if not integral to the new master.






My MC is the single pot.  However, a dual pot conversion from the Classic parts Auto, that looks much like original single pot and fits the hookup under the cab floor just like the single.  Maybe that eliminates the concern for the check valves?  Brad






The under-cab bracket worked nice on my sedan.  These kits are so convenient; no more wrecking yard guessing games:  chevsofthe40s.com/detail/31589..._Ton.html



It looks like the trucks have a disc brake conversion for six lug; you are so lucky:  chevsofthe40s.com/detail/43647...it_6.html



 



Hi Brad,



Don't know if the part your looking at has what drums need.  I think that some of the replacement master cylinders have integral check valves; check the spec. 



Brake systems are man-safety engineering, trust your research first and plan carefully.



Cheers


Edited by - pinenut on 03/23/2026 08:23:42

1935tb-11 - Posted - 03/23/2026:  08:28:45


does it look like this ?





if so this is 443.00 including  delivery 



mpbrakes.com/product/1953-chev...7c6d56d2c

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