Guffey - Posted - 11/29/2025:  11:47:11

Hi all. I'm playing an intro level banjo (about 5 years now) and I'd like to buy a new or new-to-me "better" banjo, and since there aren't a lot of local banjos to try, I'll likely have to buy online. I can find banjo diagrams online for most features but there's a feature I want that I don't know exactly how to describe:

I'm fighting age-related arthritis/hand surgeries and it helps my fingers "find" the strings if the strings are closer to the fretboard rather than way up high (especially up the neck). Is there a term/terms that are used to describe that .. "string height?"... to a banjo seller? Are there standard heights?

I can see that it can be tweaked via nut/bridge heights etc... but there must be a "base string height" (again, terms?) for banjos out of the box...yes?. I'd prefer not to buy a banjo that has super high string height and then have to buy more parts to lower it. Then again, am I wrong? Is it all based on nut/bridge height? and, if so, do you have any suggestions what to start with?

Thanks in advance for your help.

(I'm always envious when I see banjo players that have a "sweet" banjo string height. And yes, I know practice is a lot of that, but I've examined many players' banjos and they are definitely lower than my banjo.)

aaronoble - Posted - 11/29/2025:  12:05:33

The term is 'action'. You are looking for low action. This is adjustable - but not easily in general - on all banjos. The banjo brand with the easiest adjustment for action in my experience is Nechville.

Culloden - Posted - 11/29/2025:  12:10:07

The string height is referred to as "action." A decent banjo should come from the factory with a low action but that doesn't mean that someone hasn't monkeyed around with it. A string height of about 1/8" above the 22nd fret is about normal.
The bridge can be changed to adjust the action, but most people get used to a certain size bridge and prefer not to change it. Setup is part of owning a banjo. It's an instrument that is very adjustable and each player finds what is most comfortable to them. If you don't feel confident adjusting things on a banjo there are people accustomed to doing setup work who can dial it in for you.

Laurence Diehl - Posted - 11/29/2025:  13:19:19

Folks on the Banjo setup and repair forum are very knowledgeable and helpful if you have any questions related to tinkering with your banjo after you buy it.

Mickhammer - Posted - 11/29/2025:  14:50:17

There are plenty of things you can do to tweak your banjo to get it closer to where you want it. And there are plenty of tutorials online that will show you how to do it. If you take it slowly, you're highly unlikely to do any damage to the instrument (and it sounds like you're ready to move on to a new one anyway).

I knew nothing about any of this years back when I started playing guitar again. But as I got into playing, I also felt I wanted to know more about the instrument itself. So I went from tinkering with the setup to building my own. I'd never used a tool before in my life prior to that.

Now that I've switched over to banjo, I'm in a similar process - tweaking them, that is.

Anyway, if you're not comfortable doing a setup -- that's the term for making the necessary adjustments to get the action you're looking for -- I'm certain you can find someone in your area who will do it for you. If not at your local music store, at least through the banjo grapevine.

RB3 - Posted - 11/29/2025:  15:54:58

The following are features of the instrument that affect the "action" of the strings.

1. Height of the nut and the depth of the nut slots
2. Height of the bridge and the depth of the bridge slots
3. Head tension - A tighter head will raise the strings
4. Tailpiece adjustment - A lower tailpiece will lower the strings
5. String gage - Heavier gage strings increase downward force on the head, which lowers the strings
6. The angle between the fretboard surface and the surface of the head

dpgetman - Posted - 11/29/2025:  19:05:44

What Wayne said!

I would recommend:

First, go with lighter strings, they will sit lower in the nut slots and give you a bit lower action most likely.

Second, loosen all of the nuts attached to the hooks around the tension hoop one by one about 1/4 turn and see if that helps.

Third, bring the banjo into a guitar repair shop and ask them to check the action at the first fret, which may be high because the slots were not cut quite deep enough, and to also check the truss rod, which may be set to have too much bow in the neck. A guitar shop tech should be able to make those adjustments if needed for pretty cheep as they are both basically the same on a banjo and a guitar.

Best of luck and feel free to DM me if I can help at all!

David

Barnacle Joe - Posted - 11/29/2025:  19:56:00

It would be good to know what intro-level banjo you have been playing on for five years (and perhaps the style of music you play and will play on the new one). Then people would know what constitutes a "step up" for you.

Gold Tone instruments are tweaked and set up (including setting the action) right before they go in the box (to you, or to a dealer) and I suspect Deering is the same. Not sure about Recording King. But they'll both have lots of variety to choose from, and be happy to talk on the phone about where you want the action. If you're playing "old-time" (or just about anything that isn't bluegrass) you might want to consider nylon strings. Very gentle on the fingers in comparison.

Culloden - Posted - 11/29/2025:  21:55:06

I think I should have said 1/8" above the 12th fret. I didn't take one of the banjos out of the case to measure it.

pinenut - Posted - 11/29/2025:  22:20:06

The Goldstar G11 HF is a nice banjo.

If your action is high; this should be readily correctable with setup.

banjered - Posted - 11/30/2025:  04:11:23

Considering all of the above, a lower bridge could be a quick and easy correction in the right direction. banjered

jdskyler - Posted - 11/30/2025:  11:55:08

Whatever you end up buying, you might want to locate a capable "Banjo Mechanic" and have him/her go through it and set it up for you. That way the action will suit you, the head tension will be right, neck bow, maybe try some different bridges to find one that sounds the best on your instrument ....

It appears you are in the Denver area, surely there is someone / something near by. Probably someone on here can recommend?

The Old Timer - Posted - 11/30/2025:  13:28:26

Historically, I believe the American made banjo with the "sweetest" or lowest action, right from the factory, was the Ode line, for bluegrass meaning the model C and D. Every one I've ever touched had lower than expected action. I seem to remember Odes and Baldwin/Odes were extremely popular with the chromatic/melodic style players. I guessed that perhaps they like that low action for all "up the neck" work. The fret spacing and scale length led to a banjo that stayed at correct pitch on all the strings all the way up the neck.

Vegas like the Pro, Scruggs and Osborne were also very good in this way of great intonation and low action.

Gibsons were never known for either intonation or low action IMHO.

Today I think some would put Stellings on the spectrum with good low action along with Nechvilles.

Masterclones, in general, I think are going to feel like Gibsons.

A beginner, as the OP described herself, would be unlikely to be banjo mechanic enough to wrestle a standard or high action banjo into a low action banjo.

I'll add that part of the problem in adjusting a banjo to low action, is the quality of the fret installation. ONE high fret somewhere on the neck is going to limit how low you can take the action. Just one! And if you want a heart breaking project, try adjusting ONE high fret. It's a vicious circle.

I hope the OPer will get a chance to try out a used Ode C or D that hasn't had its low action defeated with a tall bridge.

Tony T and Pete W's old book Masters of the Five String, surveyed most of the pros of the day and found the AVERAGE action was 1/8" at the 12th fret, as mentioned above. Some were higher typical 3/16". So it has to be a fact that some were lower too. Is 1/16" possible? 3/32"??

Don Stover Dick Bowden 7/1991 Winterhawk NY

 

Guffey - Posted - 11/30/2025:  18:14:12

Thank you all for my new banjo word "action". Honestly, that word doesn't exactly bring to mind "string height" but OK, now I know.

I play a 1981 GoldStar G11HF , melodic and "scruggs". One owner - me. I bought it in '81 and played for 3 years - but after struggling with string height, and that STUPID argument of pinky vs. pinky/ring finger (I was told I *HAD* to keep that ring finger anchored or I should just go home - I couldn't do it), I gave up. Still kicking myself.

Now I'm playing again and I started looking at other - real banjo players :) - banjos and ALL that I've looked at (10?12?) have a lower action . I tried a lower bridge (original was 11/16") but that introduces a buzz when pressing on lower frets. I adjusted the truss rod (I followed a YouTube video... I promise I didn't just crank it) but still a buzz. I did *not* adjust head tension but it sounds like an option. I got a feeler gauge and the height is close to recommended so right now I play with a 5/8" bridge and I just accept the buzz.

If you got thru that, I hope that answers setup/testing questions. I love my Goldstar but I despise the buzz and I *know* that many other banjos have a lower action so I thought I'd look for a new-to-me banjo. There are other reasons too - every player I've asked says a radius neck is easier so I'm thinking about that. I'm fighting multiple hand surgeries and arthritis... and time itself... so I want the easiest setup I can make for myself. I just enjoy playing.

Guffey - Posted - 11/30/2025:  18:23:14

oh, by the way, someone mentioned ODE above. Funny but typical-for-me story: I called OME in Boulder, CO (same maker as ODE I believe) about 4 years ago and then I thought "nah, I better make sure I can stick with this before I spend $2000+ ". I went back last summer and it turns out they had just closed up and sold to Goldtone. So OME is not making any new banjos and ODE makes open backs only and I'd like a resonator.

AND... I absolutely agree: I'm in no position to be messing with my banjo too much. Probably never will.

The Old Timer - Posted - 12/01/2025:  09:57:53

If you've got a persistent buzz you might have a high fret (or two).

If you're near a really good banjo luthier they might be able to track down that fret and deal with it. You could check with Greg Boyd Instruments in Missoula Montana and say if they can point you somewhere. A good luthier can dial in your banjo EXACTLY where you want it. It can cost quite bit though.

The other place to ask would be Intermountain Guitar and Banjo in Utah. They have cut way back on their business, I understand, but they understand banjo luthiery and might be able to steer you to someone really good.

Used Odes are in the market frequently and they're not wildly expensive. In fact, a used Model C is quite a bargain usually (try it to be sure you like it.

If you encounter a good banjo with action that you like a lot, trade or sell your Gold Star 11.