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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/402708
Buckbee1886 - Posted - 04/08/2025: 04:05:08
Hello everyone, I have been playing clawhammer and 2-finger banjo for almost 2 years now, and this is my first post to BH. I have a pretty rough 1880s Buckbee that I am restoring, and it’s almost done, other than the much needed neck work. The neck has a pretty good bow in it, due to steel strings being installed at one time, and I made a bending jig to try and straighten it. I just wanted to make sure that this is an ok way to do it, and to see if there were any other ways to straighten it.
Thanks!
Earl
DSmoke - Posted - 04/08/2025: 05:38:04
Are you planning to heat it? Just clamping it straight will not straighten the neck.
Buckbee1886 - Posted - 04/08/2025: 07:23:08
Yes, I did plan on heating it somehow. About how hot is hot enough, and what would be a good way to do it. I was thinking maybe a heated blanket.
Noah Cline - Posted - 04/08/2025: 07:25:51
Reiterating what Dan said, heating the neck and then clamping it to straighten it will work better. I've done similar to a Goya classical guitar's neck that had a lot of up-bow (with no truss rod). However, to correct the up-bow, you need one clamp in the middle with the brace setting on blocks on either end (along with cork to protect the fingerboard), drawing the middle of the neck up into a convex bow. Not a drastic amount, but enough to bring it past "straight". To heat, I used a heat gun on low and worked it back and forth until the neck was warm to the touch, not wanting to harm the finish. It took a couple heatings and presses left in the clamp and brace for a month or so each time before it brought the relief down and the strings to a more playable height.
However, you need some relief/up-bow in the neck, especially with nylon strings having a wider vibrating arc than steel.
Buckbee1886 - Posted - 04/08/2025: 07:42:59
Thank you for the advice Noah. Luckily there’s no fingerboard, and not that much finish left to worry about harming.
Where’s a good place to leave it after heating it. Somewhere dry, or somewhere humid.
A Drum On A Stick - Posted - 04/08/2025: 08:37:09
Here are a couple videos I've found helpful when making my rig
youtube.com/watch?v=c-Z30zt6dkY
youtube.com/watch?v=JhtUAYYn9WU
Bob Smakula - Posted - 04/08/2025: 08:41:34
In my shop we used an aluminum bar with a heating element as a neck press. As most folks do not have the luxury of that tool, the next best think is to use a 4 wheeled solar kiln. Park your car in a sunny spot and put the neck with the straightening apparatus in the car for an afternoon. Let it cool overnight and look at it in the morning. Repeat as necessary.
My shop has had a 90% success rate with heat pressing necks, but there are some necks that just laugh at attempts to straighten. Hopefully you are not in that 10%.
I have also had necks that responded to the solar kiln method better than the heated bar.
Good luck on the project.
Bob Smakula
smakulafrettedinstruments.com
Edited by - Bob Smakula on 04/08/2025 08:43:03
Buckbee1886 - Posted - 04/08/2025: 09:24:40
Thanks Bob, I’ll definitely give that a try. Who would’ve thought that I had a neck straightener just sitting in my driveway. This is the neck that will go on that 1890s Lyon and Healy rim I bought from you a while back.
davidppp - Posted - 04/08/2025: 10:57:29
I've, too, have had some success with clamping necks and leaving them on the dashboard of my car.
O.D. - Posted - 04/09/2025: 15:20:42
That's pretty good Bob
I straightened a neck with a back bow using real heavy strings and a 4 wheeled solar kiln.
It worked
E
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