Shmockiebaby - Posted - 08/06/2020:  09:22:56

This started as a discussion on the long neck page. Since I cannot add pics to that string, I created this forum entry.

The Deering LN casess were on sale for under $100 (I offered and paid $70) last year on eBay. Someone got a bunch of them and sold them off. Unfortunately, the handle is poorly placed, and the case will "neck dive" while being carried.

I noticed that the neck of my '66 Gibson case did the same, but not as badly. Hmmm, handle in a different spot....

So I removed and moved the handle on Deering case to the balance point on the case. Wow!, I think it even feels "lighter" to carry, because you are not fighting to keep the neck end up (and it is a heavy case).

I've attached some photos, and I'll offer some personal advice on what and how to do this job:

1) Use a frosting knife or something thin to slide behind fabric, to pull away cleanly and neatly

2) Make sure to move any lining cloth from where you will drill - I saw that two screws would go right into the case pocket area, so I was not worried. But the drill caught case lining, spun some of it, and tore it. Thankfully it is in the case pocket....

3) I used brass screws, washers, and nuts, to match the look of the gold hardware. The screws come thru in areas that will never touch the banjo.

4) Balance the case on a stick or thin board, on it's back - the balance point I found this way was perfect when I installed the handle.

Any questions, let me know.

Deering Handle OEM

Deering Remove Neck Brace

Deering Balance Test

 

Shmockiebaby - Posted - 08/06/2020:  09:27:00

More advice:
4) Remove neck support - two brass screws, goes right back in when done, but need access behind it.

5) I moved over from perfect balance spot to enable reuse of existing hole, and covering up another one. Made no difference in final result.


I touched up the old holes with a black sharpie. I think that I'll epoxy in a couple of dowels to fill the holes, then blacken them with a sharpie. Just to keep water out in a rain storm.

When done, the handle almost matches the one on my '66 Gibson case. Much better balances.

Deering marked for new spot

Deeering screws behind cloth

Deering now balances

 

Shmockiebaby - Posted - 08/06/2020:  09:30:51

Forgot to note - case rivets drilled out from back side. I tried to center punch and drill from outside, but domed rivets would not allow it.

Shmockiebaby - Posted - 08/06/2020:  09:37:44

A couple photos of finished job, up close. I could not find round head brass screws, so I went with beveled heads and finishing washers. Looks fine.

Deering Handle new spot

Deerring handle new spot 2

banjonz - Posted - 08/06/2020:  13:10:30

There are any number of banjo cases the handle is in the wrong place for balance. I have modified the case I bought for my RK 35.

TonyS - Posted - 08/06/2020:  16:03:15

Thanks again buddy!

Helix - Posted - 11/24/2020:  08:12:17

All they have to do is move the jig a tiny bit at the factory.

I hope they read this, provide better forethought to customers.

Paper matchbooks used to come with the flint on the front so it could catch fire easily.

They only had to move the flint a few MM to the back of matchbook,but it took them 50 years to do it.

I have both of the Gold Tone Longneck hardshell cases. I've had them for 15 years.

mikehalloran - Posted - 11/24/2020:  16:51:29

The main reason I sold my Fender Allegro long neck so many years ago was that the case handle was so badly placed that it hurt my hand.



Kind of a silly reason to sell but I thought that owning three long necks was redundant.

 

What the hell was I thinking?!?!?

Whenever I hear a recording that I made with it, I always regret having sold it — damned fine sounding and playing banjo.

wizofos - Posted - 11/27/2020:  05:30:11

I like this idea but think I would put a brass or aluminium plate behind the lining to spread the stresses. Still add the washers but have them inside the plate. When I worked on boats I used to put as large a backing plate as possible under the deck for mounting cleats, winches and life line stanchions.
The least I would use would be stainless steel fender washers.