Tatersoup - Posted - 06/17/2017:  10:04:36

banjohangout.org/archive/258992/3

Here's an old archive regarding the Aquila Red banjo strings. I just got started putting a set on my Reiter Round Peak.

The second and third strings offer little to no margin for error. They are in my humble opinion shipped too short. Short enough to force one to make a very small and very tight bowline knot in this wiry material which, while possible, takes the dexterity and nimbleness of a micro surgeon. It's ridiculous, at least to me.

Bufo Bill - Posted - 06/17/2017:  14:29:13

Hi, sorry to hear that. Maybe someone cut them to short during manufacture? I have never found this problem before. Aquila did have problems with consistency years back, but I thought things were getting better now. Thanks for letting us know. 

All the best from Bill. :D

RV6 - Posted - 06/17/2017:  14:50:08

A Bowline knot is overkill, IMO.

At the very end of the string, I tie a simple overhand knot and pull it tight.  Real tight.  I clamp a forceps on the very end to do so.  Then, I tie a loose overhand knot and put it over the end of the tailpiece knob like that's on a no-knot (or a Fielding in my case) and snug it up.  The first knot you tie is a stop knot and will prevent the tag end of the string from pulling through the second overhand knot when you tighten up the string.

On strings 1,2,5 and to a lesser extent on # 3 and not at all on #4, I put the string through the hole in the tuner (aligned parallel with the fret board, clamp the forceps on the tag end and pull it as tight as I dare.  The first string stretches like a son of a gun and I'm always nervous about tightening it so much that it breaks but it never has.  There's a lot of stretch on the 1st string and even though I stretch the string to my limits, I always end up with more than enough windings on the post.  I keep the string stretched, keeping tension on it with the forceps and loop it 180 degrees around the post, under the standing portion of the string, pull up and then turn the tuner to lock the string and keep it from slipping.

You'll gain a lot of string by not tying a Bowline knot with this method and, hopefully, will have enough string length to get strung up/

Edited by - RV6 on 06/17/2017 14:51:59

LWC - Posted - 06/18/2017:  10:34:25

I agree with RV6 one time I had my banjo in the shop when I picked it up I ask if they had time to change strings for me, I had put aguila's on in the past using a bowline knot. I watched and when he used a overhand knot I ask shouldn't you be using a bowline so it doesn't slip, he said if this knot slips you next strings are on me. I don't know how many sets I've put on since then and never thought twice about using the over hand knot.  

R.D. Lunceford - Posted - 06/18/2017:  15:20:26

If you have a No-Knot tailpiece knots are unnecessary.
Just be sure the slots in the posts are deburred and edges
sanded.

As for the tuner posts on the peghead end, I just insert the string
through the hole and start tightening. The string winds right down the post
a half-dozen times (due to the stretch) and looks very neat. No need to have
the string wrap over itself.

DonH60 - Posted - 06/20/2017:  04:41:53

I use Aquila reds on mountain banjos where I have to tie them on. I Have had several 1s and 5s break at the bowline knot.  Thinking about the bowline it seemed to me that just maybe these stiff strings are kinked too sharply, particularly 1 and 5. I re-tied strings 1 and 5 using an improved clinch knot and have not had one break at the knot since.