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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/306769
jamesinkster - Posted - 07/22/2015: 16:12:27
When I see pictures of many high-end clawhammer banjos, it seems the crown height must be quite low in order to get the top of the tension hoop higher than the actual skin (at least that's how they often look in photos?)
I've tried a couple times to stretch skins for my banjo and try as I might, by the time I tighten the skin to an acceptable tension, the top of my tension hoop is lower than the top of the head.
In this case, what I'd like to do is have the top of my frailing scoop sit level with the top of the head, as well... But as I crank the tension, the hoop lowers beneath the BOTTOM of my fingerboard, exposing the truss rod hole. Which is ugly.
I can only assume this is because my crown height is too high...
Clear as mud?!
Tips!?
banjobrewer - Posted - 07/22/2015: 16:34:35
I have had the same problem with an old supertone pot. 3 attemps and I always end up bottoming out on my neck. Hope someone has some tips.
jbalch - Posted - 07/23/2015: 05:36:13
James:
As you know, banjo rims and hardware is designed to accommodate a range of crown heights. As long as the the tension hoop sits low enough to not interfere with the strings ... and high enough not to bottom out in the neck notch ... the crown height is good. Hide heads stretch - the crown height will vary over the head's useful life. It is BEST to set the initial height "low" to allow for inevitable stretching.
Every hide is unique - some stretch more than others. So "final" crown height is always somewhat unpredictable. Thickness and texture are factors. I prefer goat hides to be between .013 in. and .016 in. thick (calf can be a little thinner). I prefer "natural" (not bleached) skins. I think "Bleached" white hides are sometimes weaker. Mottled hides - with some translucent spots - sometimes seem more sturdy and stable.
I try to set the initial height so that the tension hoop sits at least 1/4 - 3/8" above the top of the head. This usually provides for 1/8" or more of additional stretching as the head is tensioned & matures. The bottom line is: set the initial crown "lower" than you want it to finish.
Vintage banjos - many which have no neck notch cut in the tension hoop - can present a challenge. It is tempting to mount the wet hide so that the tension hoop pulls even with the top of the head (to provide string clearance above the tension hoop). But - even with these old banjos it is best to set the hoop at least 1/8" higher than where it needs to finish. One caution - many old hooks are brass and can be brittle & fragile. I usually substitute modern steel hooks & nuts to use during the mounting and stretching process. Once the head is seated, dry and stretched to a good crown height - re-install the original hooks. This avoids placing too much stress on the old original parts (lesson learned the heard way - believe me).

Edited by - jbalch on 07/23/2015 05:47:44
![]() Got my work cut out... | ![]() Record number of heads in process today. Thanks for the orders! |
bartmcneil - Posted - 07/23/2015: 06:01:52
The beauty of a skin head is that it can be adjusted, and re-adjusted on initial installation so that there is little reason to not to have it in your desired location. My wife is better at installation than I am as she can install, adjust and re-adjust until reaching the desired location when tightened. Of course we use the plain skins without integral skin hoop installed.
bartmcneil - Posted - 07/23/2015: 06:23:30
quote:
Originally posted by bartmcneil
The beauty of a skin head is that it can be adjusted, and re-adjusted on initial installation so that there is little reason to not to have it in your desired location. My wife is better at installation than I am as she can install, adjust and re-adjust until reaching the desired location when tightened. Of course we use the plain skins without integral flesh hoop installed. This allows for re-adjustment until the head and tension hoop are in the correct position.
Edited by - bartmcneil on 07/23/2015 06:27:52
bartmcneil - Posted - 07/23/2015: 06:29:51
quote:
Originally posted by bartmcneil
message deleted by author
jamesinkster - Posted - 07/23/2015: 10:46:43
Thanks guys...
I guess I was more looking for tips on how to achieve a very low initial crown height, understanding that it'll obviously stretch as I tighten it...
I suspect, like so many things, this will just take lots of practice and patience :)
Thanks!
lapsteel - Posted - 09/05/2015: 13:46:18
res of many high-end clawhammer banjos, it seems the crown height must be quite low in order to get the top of the tension hoop higher than the actual skin (at least that's how they often look in photos?)
I've tried a couple times to stretch skins for my banjo and try as I might, by the time I tighten the skin to an acceptable tension, the top of my tension hoop is lower than the top of the head. Tips!?
Instead of trying to stretch it over the banjo pot, cut a circle the same diameter as your banjo pot out of one quarter inch thick plywood. Soak the hide, get it around your flesh hoop and over the plywood disk. Put a heavy weight on your tension hoop and let the whole setup dry for a few days. Then remove the plywood and slap your low crown head on your banjo pot.
banjered - Posted - 09/05/2015: 14:25:04
Are you allowing the head to dry overnight or even longer before you do the initial final cranking down? I generally leave the top of the tension hoop as high as possible with all the hooks on it and then let it dry overnight or longer depending how "stretchable" the hide seems. Some banjos have a deeper neck notch at the neck/pot junction giving you more leeway. Others have a shallower notch making it a little more difficult to hone in on too much or too little stretch.
"Guru - how is it that you are so wise?"
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