OldPappy - Posted - 07/27/2015:  10:29:38

I started a banjo along these lines over the weekend. I have the neck about 90% done, and have a rim sanded and ready to mortise and drill.

The neck is hard maple, and the rim is a Cooperman 3 ply 12" maple rim. The peghead is cut like the old Boucher banjos, which sort of aligns with this kind of neck to pot design.

Otherwise it will be a "modern" banjo, with geared tuners, a simple tone ring, frets, and steel strings.

Rudy,

I do have a question about the "perch stick".

I assume yours was flat cut before being attached to the neck, and angle is simply adjusted at the end bolt.

I am thinking about cutting a 3 degree angle on the heel end of the perch stick before attaching it to the bottom of the neck, so that the stick goes into the mortise straight.

The question is, do you think this is worthwhile, or is it overkill?

rudy - Posted - 07/27/2015:  12:55:50

quote:

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Originally posted by OldPappy

I started a banjo along these lines over the weekend. I have the neck about 90% done, and have a rim sanded and ready to mortise and drill.

The neck is hard maple, and the rim is a Cooperman 3 ply 12" maple rim. The peghead is cut like the old Boucher banjos, which sort of aligns with this kind of neck to pot design.

Otherwise it will be a "modern" banjo, with geared tuners, a simple tone ring, frets, and steel strings.

Rudy,

I do have a question about the "perch stick".

I assume yours was flat cut before being attached to the neck, and angle is simply adjusted at the end bolt.

I am thinking about cutting a 3 degree angle on the heel end of the perch stick before attaching it to the bottom of the neck, so that the stick goes into the mortise straight.

The question is, do you think this is worthwhile, or is it overkill? 

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Andy, Setting the angles (top and bottom) of the neck extension (dowel extension) is not only worthwhile but it's vital to the design.  It wouldn't prevent it from working totally, but cutting the top and bottom tapers of the extension allows the end of the tapered extension to end up at approximate mid-height of the rim.

In other words, you're pre-setting the neck angle for correct string clearance above the upper frets when used with a 5/8" bridge by pre-setting the neck angle.  With the end of the neck extension at mid-rim height it can now be raised or lowered a bit to easily adjust the string clearance over the upper frets.

I actually had the CAD file open as I'm doing a construction drawing for the Backstep design, so here's a quick mock-up to show you the approximate tapers as made.  I may adjust these slightly as I build a few, but it's pretty close.  It is shown with the neck straight, so you can see that the end of the neck extension intersects the rim at mid-height when the neck is angled back correctly.

I glued the neck extension on in square form and then cut the top and bottom tapers, following that with cutting the side tapers to end up with an approximate 3/4" by 3/4" end.  The end of the extension is left about 1/2" long and then cut off after test fitting the neck to the rim.  This way the tension band fit will be perfect when the extension is cut to length.

The first 6" (composing the heel and portion extending through the rim) is left full thickness and not tapered.  The portion outside the rim is obviously shaped to make the neck heel.

I've currently got a 11" spalted maple rim 23" A Scale with asymmetric peg head and Peghed planetary tuners on the bench and I'm going to bump the neck extension portion going through the rim up to a full 1" just because I have the material there already and I want to see if it improves the look of the design.

Edited by - rudy on 07/27/2015 13:11:53

OldPappy - Posted - 07/27/2015:  13:44:53

Rudy,

Many thanks for the diagram.

What I had in mind would have worked out the same, but your picture and explanation makes it easier than what I was about to do.

Colbornepicker - Posted - 09/28/2015:  08:36:01

Rudy,

Love your information you have here. I am a long time woodworker and have been wanting to build a banjo since I started playing a couple of months ago.
It is great way to relax and focus myself before going into the shop and working.
When I get around to a build I'll post some pics for you.

Now back to reading all your great information.
thanks.

rudy - Posted - 09/28/2015:  09:20:07

quote:

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Originally posted by Colbornepicker

Rudy,



Love your information you have here. I am a long time woodworker and have been wanting to build a banjo since I started playing a couple of months ago.

It is great way to relax and focus myself before going into the shop and working.

When I get around to a build I'll post some pics for you.



Now back to reading all your great information.

thanks.

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Thanks!

There have been a lot of great topics over the years by several different contributors.  I've archived a few of my favorites on my website links page HERE.

Colbornepicker - Posted - 09/30/2015:  02:55:18

quote:

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Originally posted by rudy

 

quote:

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Originally posted by Colbornepicker

Rudy,



Love your information you have here. I am a long time woodworker and have been wanting to build a banjo since I started playing a couple of months ago.

It is great way to relax and focus myself before going into the shop and working.

When I get around to a build I'll post some pics for you.



Now back to reading all your great information.

thanks.

---

Thanks!

There have been a lot of great topics over the years by several different contributors.  I've archived a few of my favorites on my website links page HERE.

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Thanks again Rudy, these are great links.