DVD-quality lessons (including tabs/sheet music) available for immediate viewing on any device.
Take your playing to the next level with the help of a local or online banjo teacher.
Weekly newsletter includes free lessons, favorite member content, banjo news and more.
|
Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/296466
woshjeber - Posted - 12/21/2014: 17:08:09
So I'm about to mount my first hide head. I would like to know if there is a way to mount it so that the head sits above the tension hoop. Thanks in advance!
jbalch - Posted - 12/21/2014: 17:21:22
quote:
Originally posted by woshjeberSo I'm about to mount my first hide head. I would like to know if there is a way to mount it so that the head sits above the tension hoop. Thanks in advance!
Hello Josh: Your question confuses me a bit ... are you wanting to mount it so that the tension hoop pulls down below the top of the head?
rudy - Posted - 12/21/2014: 17:22:40
There are a lot of tutorials out there. Richie Dotson has a very nice "how to" on his Acousticbox .com website.
Be aware that you'll have other issues to consider if you want the rim flush or below the head surface. A couple things to consider is if your neck heel notch is deep enough so the head bead doesn't bottom out before the head is tight, and also if you have enough clearance above the shoes so the head bead can be pulled down sufficiently.
woshjeber - Posted - 12/21/2014: 17:32:19
yes, I would like the tension hoop to sit below the surface of the head but still remain flush with fretboard.
jbalch - Posted - 12/21/2014: 17:41:54
My advice is to set the initial crown height lower than you want it to eventually finish. In other words, set the tension hoop up a little higher than you want.
Most hides stretch over time. If you set the crown too tall ( hoop sitting too low), it will likely end up pulling down too much.
Tom Berghan - Posted - 12/21/2014: 22:30:50
What John said . . . mount it so that it has a pretty low crown . . . it will stretch. I find it difficult to get the crown even all the way around . . . so, if you have too much trouble . . . just keep the hide wet (damp) and start over. Take you time, and have faith in the process. After you let it dry overnight, it will tighten quite a lot making the crown even lower . . . but it will stretch quite a lot the first time you start to really put tension to it. Take some photo's and show us how it turns out.
Another tip that I learned from John Balch. Don't trim it installed on the banjo. After you let it dry overnight . . . then remove the tension hoop and trim it with scissors like in this photo:

Bill - Posted - 12/22/2014: 07:21:33
I might add that, for an 11" banjo, you ought to have at least a 16" or 18" skin -- makes things easier to grab and pull when installing.
I have mounted only 2 heads, but each was easy, following the instructions on the old Bill Miller web site: banjoseen.us/Store/index.html (instructions download link is on the upper right-hand side of the page, just under the maccaw). [I have no interest in the company, and I'm not even sure they are still operating. Bill Miller passed away some time ago, but his instructions survive.] These instructions differ from the Richie Dotson one in the particular point that Bill says not to soak the skin for longer than 1 minute.
I wholeheartedly agree with Tom's point about the trimming -- makes it so much easier. I also would listen to every word that John Balch says on the matter. He's the guru here.
Here's a photo of my banjo. I think this is the sort of mount you're looking for. BTW, Richie Stearns also favors a similar mount.
![]() Skin head mounted so as to keep the tension hoop low. |
Terms of Use | Privacy Policy | Privacy Consent (EU/GDPR Only)
Copyright 2026 Banjo Hangout. All Rights Reserved.