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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/281072
LWC - Posted - 03/08/2014: 13:03:28
Hi All, I took the Bill Miller hide off my openback a couple years ago, now I'm thinking about putting it back on and going to Sands strings. I've forgotten the process for installing the hide head, also do you try to tune a hide head to G like a regular head.
Next question is I think the action might be a little low for the nylon strings right now 3rd string is about .017 on the 1st fret and about 3/32 inch, with a 5/8" bridge, do you think I'll have to raise the action. Thanks Larry
Edited by - LWC on 03/08/2014 21:18:34
etparadox - Posted - 03/08/2014: 22:19:56
Did you remove the skin hoop from the head? If not you can just put the head on like normal. Otherwise you'll have to remount it. I've never remounted a skin head, only mounted a larger skin. Not sure of the process. You may be able to just slip a skin hoop back in. Skin heads aren't as consistent as plastic heads so drum dials and similar deflection gauges won't work as well. I'd recommend getting the head to a low but functional tension and slowly increase the tension, listening to the tone change until you find what sounds good.
The action all depends on how hard you play. Try it as is and address it if it is an issue.
RV6 - Posted - 03/09/2014: 07:45:01
quote:
Originally posted by LWCHi All, I took the Bill Miller hide off my openback a couple years ago, now I'm thinking about putting it back on and going to Sands strings. I've forgotten the process for installing the hide head, also do you try to tune a hide head to G like a regular head.
Next question is I think the action might be a little low for the nylon strings right now 3rd string is about .017 on the 1st fret and about 3/32 inch, with a 5/8" bridge, do you think I'll have to raise the action. Thanks Larry
Larry, On my R. Buckbee with a goatskin head (11") banjo with Sands mediums, I have a tight quarter measurement using Steve Davis's 10 inch rule method. The RK OT25 (11") with a goatskin head has a loose nickel. The Reiter has a no knot tailpiece and the RK has a homemade walnut tailpiece that does exert some down pressure. On both, I tightened the heads to where they sounded good and then found what coinage fit.
I assume the 3/32" measurement is at the 12th fret. Both of my banjos have a clearance of just over 7/64" at the 12th and both have higher bridges (homemade walnut). If you get some buzz with your existing bridge, you might try shimming the bridge up to see what height works.
Bob
Bill - Posted - 03/09/2014: 09:28:35
This has been posted before, but I found Brooks Masten's advice on adjusting skin heads to be helpful enough to repeat here.
So... brooksbanjos.com/index.php/babbling/
Scroll down to the Weathered Skin Heads entry.
My banjo is a Bart Reiter, and Brooks' head adjustment advice was spot on for me. BTW, I'm using a Bill Miller calfskin head.
Also, look for John Balch's advice in other postings here on the Hangout. He is a master at this sort of thing.
Edited by - Bill on 03/09/2014 09:31:11
Bufo Bill - Posted - 03/09/2014: 09:55:55
Go to the Hide Head Banjo Group page for loads of info.
All the best from Bill. :D
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