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Please note this is an archived topic, so it is locked and unable to be replied to. You may, however, start a new topic and refer to this topic with a link: http://www.banjohangout.org/archive/262238
Yellowhouseroad - Posted - 05/07/2013: 12:53:42
I realize that this isn't banjo related, but I'm not sure where else to go at the moment. I bought a 1950s Rickenbacker lap steal that was described as being in "very good condition", but when I received it in the mail the fingerboard was unattached. I'm inclined to think that this is a result of the shipping and change in weather these past few days, but I'm still contacting the seller about this. In the mean time, the instrument itself appears to be in good condition and I would like to see if I can just fix myself if all it takes is some cleaning and a bit of glue. I am a little uneasy about trying to fix it without knowing for sure how to deal with it. The fingerboard itself is metal and the bottom is rusty and and a little messy. Any tips you have on this job would be very much appreciated. Thanks all and God bless.
![]() Rickenbacker | ![]() Rickenbacker |
dat - Posted - 05/07/2013: 13:27:23
I would use titebond 2, but then again, most would say take it to somebody that knows what they are doing
250gibson - Posted - 05/07/2013: 13:29:30
I would just glue it back on. Make sure that the 12th fret marker is exactly half way between the nut and bridge.
The fingerboard is just indicator marks anyhow, but they need it be in the correct place to be accurate
nakigreengrass - Posted - 05/07/2013: 14:41:25
I think if I had that problem, I would......carefully sand down the metal and wood. Use a industrial type sand paper e.g Auto wet and dry type, (hardware style sandpapers have got lubricates on them) and use a epoxy type glue.
rinemb - Posted - 05/07/2013: 17:13:30
I would consider dry scraping the back of the fingerboard (on a flat surface so you dont bend the fingerboard) and clean with acetone or such, being very careful not to have any solvents drip around to top of finger board, then dry scrap lap steel wood, to avoid messin old finish around finger board position, then tape off at glue joint and very carefully clean residue off with out saturating the rag. I would have to think about the glue, but I would consider something that gives good adherence, yet could be removed if needed?
Brad
rendesvous1840 - Posted - 05/07/2013: 21:28:46
Tape it face down to a good flat surface so it doesn't bend, and clean it with fine emery cloth or steel wool. Use enough tape to keep it from moving or lifting while you work. When part of it is clean, remove some of the tape, and tape the clean areas so you can clean the rest. It may be aluminum, which is soft and distorts easily, so don't work to fast. Mask off the edges of the guitar where the overlay goes, and clean that also. You can tape wood onto the areas you want to protect. I would consult someone who works on these to ask what adhesive to use. You might check with Stewart Macdonald also. They may even have a video showing how they do it. They post videos on their site for various repair projects at least monthly, and maintain an archive. Other places to try asking questions are The Hawaiian Steel Guitar Association, hsga.org/ and The Steel Guitar Forum steelguitarforum.com/ I took the liberty of posting a link and a question on the HSGA forum, we'll see what comes up.
Paul
Yellowhouseroad - Posted - 05/08/2013: 03:29:58
Thanks a bunch all! This is very helpful. At least I'm feeling more like I haven't wasted my money.
Yellowhouseroad - Posted - 05/08/2013: 13:12:42
Tah dah! Took it down to the Nechville banjo shop and within a half hour, we had a totally awesome instrument! Thank you all for your suggestions!
Edited by - Yellowhouseroad on 05/08/2013 13:13:07
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rendesvous1840 - Posted - 05/08/2013: 21:41:59
Too cool! Now learn to play it. Maybe I'll learn too, someday.
Paul
rinemb - Posted - 05/09/2013: 05:36:28
Chicken!!!!! lol, no really, you did the right thing. It looks great. Did you see what they did. Curious minds want to know?
BanjoLink - Posted - 05/09/2013: 12:28:17
quote:
Originally posted by dat
I would use titebond 2, but then again, most would say take it to somebody that knows what they are doing
Since it is already done fit doesn't matter, but in the future do not use Titebond II on instruments. Original Titebond is the preferred glue. Do enough searches and you will find out why!
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