blindsniper - Posted - 03/27/2013:  04:07:05

Hangouters,

I recently bought a house that was built in the 1920's in Johannesburg.  Like all houses built those days it has Oregon pine floors, skirting boards, door frames and doors.  For some strange previous owners painted the wood and I am in the process of restoration.  I remove the paint (4 layers) with  paint stripper and then sand it down until I detect the lovely smell of pine..

I now need to put some oil or sealer on the wood but I do not know what.  I would like to retain the light colour as much as possible and this is where I need advice.

Can any of you tell me what to put on the wood?  I recon it being Oregon Pine many of you in The States will know.

Looking forward to some advice.

Regards

Ian

edited to correct grammer

Edited by - blindsniper on 03/27/2013 04:08:17

farmer bob - Posted - 03/27/2013:  05:48:55

Same here. I pulled up three layers of flooring to find yellow pine flooring. I would like to use the same old finish they used back then which was oil varnish. Problem is oil takes days to dry and months to fully harden. I'm going with a fast drying polyurethane over a couple coats of schllac... Bob

dat - Posted - 03/27/2013:  05:59:00

I would say an oil finish, it does take a while to dry, but it is worth it in the end, 'specially if it is rich pine with good heartwood. a lot of varnishes don't stick well to the old sap, the oil finish will make the pine really stand out. use an oil and dilute with mineral spirits, it will take more coats but it will also soak into the wood and give a deeper look to the finish, and also dry faster. lots of different ways to go, but that's what I would do

blindsniper - Posted - 03/27/2013:  06:05:50

quote:

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Originally posted by dat

 

I would say an oil finish, it does take a while to dry, but it is worth it in the end, 'specially if it is rich pine with good heartwood. a lot of varnishes don't stick well to the old sap, the oil finish will make the pine really stand out. use an oil and dilute with mineral spirits, it will take more coats but it will also soak into the wood and give a deeper look to the finish, and also dry faster. lots of different ways to go, but that's what I would do

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The only drying oil I know  is Linseed.  Will that work?

dat - Posted - 03/27/2013:  06:33:33

boiled linseed oil will dry, you may even look into some of the oil finishes like watco or minwax, the "oil finish" from them isn't a pure oil, but it is easy to work with and cuts out a lot of mixing, the "danish oil" or "teak oil finish" I'll use boiled linseed oil or danish oil. if you get one of the "oil finishes" are easy to find and easy to apply. I use many light coats and rub in instead of the heavy coats and wipe off like the directions say

wizofos - Posted - 03/27/2013:  08:16:29

There used to be a product called Gym-Seal or something like that. My brother did his old farm house floors(1" wide hard maple) by cutting it 50/50 and putting down 3-4 coats.  It was a commercial gymnasium floor product so not sure if it is still available or if it is available where you are.

I have done many boats and furniture and like Spar Varnish, many different brands but they have UV inhibitors so will not fade where the sun comes in a window and water proof.  If you are near the water check with a marine supply.

I have a friend who does tables and likes to finish with this recipe.

1/3 spar varnish, 1/3 turpentine, 1/3 boiled linseed oil

many coats with light scuffing with fine scotchbrite pad in between coats.

dat - Posted - 03/27/2013:  08:33:14

I use the same recipe on some things only use mineral spirits instead of turpentine, ends up about the same results

fivebranch - Posted - 03/27/2013:  10:48:30

Personally I would not put an oil base finish product on my wood floors. I just finish my whole upstairs floors with a Product that is water based. It's Varathane semi- gloss no odor floor finish polyurethane fast drying it's from Rust-Oleum Corporation. I highly recommend the stuff if you can get it.

farmer bob - Posted - 03/27/2013:  11:07:15

One thing I like about not finishing my pine kitchen floor. Although it looks bad, is the freedom of walking in with dirty shoes and not having to worry about getting the nice new finish dirty. I totally rebuilt the kitchen from the walls up. Everything is new, modern and spotless. So a rough floor gives a rustic charm to the room. At least I like to think it does... Bob

BConk - Posted - 03/27/2013:  11:32:53

Oregon pine as in Douglas fir?

 I finished a new, wide board white pine floor that I laid in our home by "hand" rubbing 5 or more coats into it using a cheap electric hand held car wax buffer.

It was probably 10 years ago - I used a mixture of boiled linseed oil thinned with turpentine by about 10%; and oil based satin finish polyurethane - the first coat was something like 20% poly , 80% thinned oil. I'd rub the coat in, then let it dry for 24 hours - the turpentine helps speed the process. The next coat would have more poly in it. Each coat was rubbed and buffed in and allowed to set at least 24 hours. The final coat was probably 80% polyurethane, 20% thinned linseed oil.

It yielded a beautiful and durable finish that really made the wood look wonderful. It has also held up very well over the years.

While that worked nicely with new wood, I'd be concerned about the ability of your refinished floor to absorb any oil finishes. Seeing as it was once painted, the wood might be sealed and the oil might not get "rubbed in" well enough to cure properly.

rinemb - Posted - 03/27/2013:  11:48:54

If you desire to retain the present shade/tone/etc of the wood as it now looks unfinished, many fine woodworkers will first apply a coat of shellac.  It does not penetrate, discolor or cause a "wet" look.  Then you can apply compatible coats of finish to protect.   Or so says the expert at a woodwork finishing workshop I recently attended in Asheville.   That said, do your research prior to ever listening to me.

Brad