moorej24 - Posted - 11/10/2012:  23:26:47

I do realize there are a few threads on this and I read a bunch of them but have a few questions still.

So I recently made a switch from metal to Nylgut strings and I like the change in tone!  I might experiment with a few other string styles and brands but plan on sticking with imitated Gut or Nylon style strings as I like how they feel.  Anyhow for now I'm using the standard bridge that is maple with an ebony cap, and quite thin.  I was wondering on what kind of bridge would be best for nylon strings?  I made one myself that was quite a bit thicker and roughly the same dimensions otherwise but my strings buzzed in the slots and I was wondering if this was because of the thickness, two big a slot, or not a steep enough angle on the strings?  The bridge also only had two feet, being pretty wide and thick though.  Does anyone have suggestions on shape, size, and slot, and material?  I made mine out of hazelnut if that matters. 

hoverflytheo - Posted - 11/11/2012:  02:40:01

Joel Hooks (deuceswild here on the BHO) has written a good piece about making or converting bridges for nylgut.

archive.banjosessions.com/dec08/Hooks.html

I mention it because it includes lots of photos of various sizes / shapes as compared to standard ebony capped, so it should be a bit more of a guide.

Regarding the thickness of the top, I'd say probably a millimeter or a mill and a half absolute max - think violin bridge rather than standard banjo bridge.

Edited by - hoverflytheo on 11/11/2012 02:45:00

brudford - Posted - 11/11/2012:  08:27:41

I had similar issues also when I went to the Nylgut on one of my banjos . Here is what I tried . First off, the Ebony cap on the bridge is a very hard wood . I found to my ear that the Nylguts like a softer cap wood . Also like you I ended up making my own bridge . I see you have issues with string buzz . It took some extra time but when I made my own bridge I filed each string slot to match the diameter of each string !  I have noticed that the higher end / better quality bridges do this . The cheaper bridges give you a string slot for one size fits all ? Try this and experiment . Also rube some graphite or pencil dust inside each nut  slot or try a bone nut also .

Edited by - brudford on 11/11/2012 08:28:59

brudford - Posted - 11/11/2012:  10:52:21

I also forgot to mention above that anytime you have a cap wood on a bridge such as Ebony that cap has got to be glued to the bridge . I guess maybe you would then have a type of plywood/laminate which might effect the transferance of string vibration from the string-bridge and to the head . Maybe  ? I'am not sure .? Might be ok with the steel stringed Bluesgrass boys . Again, experiment .

moorej24 - Posted - 11/11/2012:  19:59:31

I didn't use a cap as it seemed... silly to cap a softer wood on top of something already fairly soft compared to maple and ebony. I actually had two bridges with different things to try but the foot on the second one ended up breaking off when I was doing some cleaning around it. Must have cracked when I was chiseling it out.

Also I don't have a ton of files right now. I have both carpenters and carving chisels but I'm still learning to use them(have experience but not more than a few years) and I have machinest files but no wood files. Lots of sandpaper though! So pretty much I'm doing all my work with chisels, hand saws(including a coping saw), sandpaper, and whatever else I can jury-rig together. I have access to a scroll saw but in the six months I've wanted to use it I haven't managed to get my dad to help me pull it out of his "shop"(storage shed really) since there is so much stuff around it and he gets picky on where it goes. Anyhow right now I'm cutting a "blank" out and than chiseling out the rough shape before doing finishing it off. My string slots are lightly chiseled into place but I think I need to make them smaller and cleaner. Practice I guess!

So looking at that Mel Bay page and from what you guys are saying it seems that I need to make my bridge much thinner and make smaller grooves for the strings. I was worried about them slipping out but as they haven't on the standard bridge while playing I guess I shouldn't have worried. If I have time tomorrow I'll start working on making a new blank or two. Still thinking a two foot variety instead of a three foot and will also be out of hazelnut. I do have some dimensional lumber so it'd be a soft wood(pine most likely but it was "found" lumber so... who knows!) that I might try too if I feel like going softer. It has a wider grain so I wouldn't think it would be strong enough but it's worth a shot!

rendesvous1840 - Posted - 11/11/2012:  20:21:11

Each slot should be the diameter of it's string, or slightly larger. The depth should be no less than half the diameter of the string to keep the string from jumping out. This is kinda tough to measure, but a set of welding torch cleaners can file the slots if you can judge the size of tip cleaner needed for each string. Try filing slots in scrap wood and test fitting strings to see how close you are. The string shouldn't bind in the slot, nor should it have a lot of room to move sideways.
Paul

tunemakers - Posted - 11/14/2012:  13:36:01

I use a three footed standard cheapo bridge. I use piece of sandpaper folded in half and just dusted the bridge slots. It didn't take much effort nor did I remove but the smallest amount of material. I found that the cheap frosted heads work best with my banjo and I got it on the tight side. I did pick up a couple of other thinner cheap used bridges but I have yet to try them. I'm a nylagut guy now. I just don't care for the sound of steel strings anymore. Not on my banjo or anyone elses for that matter.