Bufo Bill - Posted - 01/22/2012:  09:17:07

I would like to ask any bridge makers reading this  for their thoughts on what makes a good bridge for nylon or Nylgut style strings; should it be light or heavy,or  a specific weight range; any little  hints or tips, rules of thumb etc, anything you feel is relevant really. You are welcome to post pictures of your bridges, you may get a few extra sales if people like the designs you post!

The idea is to link this to the Polymer String Group page, as I couldn't find a concise enough topic  on the subject with the search function.

Many thanks from Bill. :D

shannonhearne - Posted - 01/22/2012:  09:28:30

Bill,

I don't make bridges, but I have used a good number of different one. Recently I tried a Will Fielding bridge on my 11 inch dobson with Cris Sands nylon strings. and I have been very happy with it. You might also wan to give it a try. Previously, I had tried Moon bridges ( medium and heavy weight), and several traditional maple and ebony bridges, none of which gave me the tone I was looking for with Nylgut or nylon strings. The Fielding bridge did.

Good luck, - shannon

Bart Veerman - Posted - 01/22/2012:  09:54:40

The bridge design isn't that different for steel or nylon strings although typical bluegrass bridges generally are way too thick, nylons like thinner bridges. From the bridges I make people prefer the untopped ones-no ebony. String slotting with properly rounded bottoms to match the string gauge is critical for nylons though, simple V notched grooves just won't do the job and shouldn't be acceptable.

rudy - Posted - 01/22/2012:  10:31:28

Bufo, you might check out deuceswilde photos page.  There are a lot of folks that recommend the two foot style of bridge made as lightly as possible for non-steel strings, particularly when low tuning is involved.  Here is one I just did for a Boucher replica:

End of pot view

Bart McNeil - Posted - 01/22/2012:  10:33:48

I would highly encourage anyone to make their own bridges for experimentation. It takes only the most basic hand tools, no power equipment and simply scrap wood from whatever. My bridges may not look quite as good as some, but they certainly sound as good as most. And I get the satisfaction of knowing I done it.

Stringbean45 - Posted - 01/22/2012:  11:18:47

Hi All,

I've had several customers wanting bridges for Nygut and fishing line strings, and I just cut wider string notches in the Spillway, and Minstrel bridges I make and sell here on the hangout Classified section, and they have been very happy with them.

I don't play any banjos set up with Nyguy or other type strings, but have to go on the customer feedback, and I've had reorders form many of them.

Don

steve davis - Posted - 01/22/2012:  11:44:10

The last one I made was 2.7g and Bart's point about matching the notches to the strings is a good one.

My compensation formula works with nyl gut/old time banjos,too.

Edited by - steve davis on 01/22/2012 11:47:26

trapdoor2 - Posted - 01/22/2012:  11:45:53

quote:

---

Originally posted by Bart Veerman

The bridge design isn't that different for steel or nylon strings although typical bluegrass bridges generally are way too thick, nylons like thinner bridges. From the bridges I make people prefer the untopped ones-no ebony. String slotting with properly rounded bottoms to match the string gauge is critical for nylons though, simple V notched grooves just won't do the job and shouldn't be acceptable.

---

LOL. I've been notching my bridges with an Xacto-knife since the '70's; for nylon/nylgut since the 1990's. I bought a set of nut-files about 5-6 yrs ago and converted all my bridges to 'round bottom grooves'...and cannot tell the difference at all. Perhaps I'm just not sensitive enough!  If I were making bridges to sell, they would all have round-bottom grooves...technically, the proper thing to do.

Currently, I prefer either the Joel Hooks two-footed bridges or the Cole-type. Visually, I prefer the Cole-type. Joel put one of his on my Fairbanks last year and it really woke that banjo up!

mike gregory - Posted - 01/22/2012:  12:13:58

I agree with Bart McNeil.

xnavyguy and Roll Player have been messing around with experimental bridges, made of either  Wood scraps or Lor-nos-wat, for quite some time.

And I usually take  a slice of scrap whatever,  and cobble up something.

"Minstrel" bridges are rather easy. Clamp it to a backing block so it doesn't splinter, drill round holes, sand it to the thinnishness you desire, and cut through the bottom of the holes.

I didn't make this one, but it's how mine usually look.

WildJimbo - Posted - 01/22/2012:  12:29:40

quote:

---

Originally posted by trapdoor2

LOL. I've been notching my bridges with an Xacto-knife since the '70's; for nylon/nylgut since the 1990's. I bought a set of nut-files about 5-6 yrs ago and converted all my bridges to 'round bottom grooves'...and cannot tell the difference at all. 

---

I've done the same thing.  In my limited experience I've had fewer problems with buzzing due to bridge slots with Vs than with the "proper" rounded bottoms.  It was only when I got my first "boutique" bridge that I ever had a buzz due to the slot...

steve davis - Posted - 01/22/2012:  12:35:14

They don't buzz if they fit right.

DEmery - Posted - 01/22/2012:  14:58:34

I don't know much about designs of bridges and cannot tell too much difference among the different makers that use unique shapes or cuts. As for polymer and gut strings, I have experienced a significant difference in spruce bridges with no ebony cap. Dan Knowles has made several bridges of exotic wood and standard maple to go on a variety of banjos. I have noticed if the wood is too hard it tends to drive overtones or can sound brittle. The attached photo is a spruce bridge I asked Arthur Hatfield to build. His standard bridges are for bluegrass banjos and I have enjoyed them over the years. Arthur is very responsive and does very clean work; so I asked him to knock out a spruce straight bridge. He said this is the first one he has made and it was installed on a flush fret banjo with a cocobolo rim strung with nylgut. The result is more volume, improved intonation, and rounder notes that are very evenly voiced. I do have maple bridges on other banjos with nylgut but over time will likely replace them with spruce. David E.

Edited by - DEmery on 01/22/2012 15:00:25

Goshen buit by Dan Knowles

steve davis - Posted - 01/22/2012:  15:33:36

How does using spruce improve intonation?

charlied - Posted - 01/22/2012:  16:30:25

I made a two footed bridge for an experiment.  It was a two footed minstrel bridge, and it started out thick and chunky. I kept sanding the flat til it sounded good.  I actually went too far.  On steel strings, I lost some bass response. On nylgut I think it might be just right.  Time wil tell.   I know it needs to be tweaked as far as weight and balance but I put it on my flathead banjo and got good note separation so I could play clawhammer and play over the neck without the banjo being overpowering. .  I also put it on a resotone banjo and it gave a lot of ummph to the nylgut strings.  Its made of pine and thick as a popsicle stick . maybe.

I am going to weigh it one day so I can have some made  different weights  for me professionally because there is a good bridge there somewhere.  I think I just got lucky.  

Tyri - Posted - 01/22/2012:  23:14:35

banjohangout.org/classified/25196

I just happen to have one like Mike's example listed in the classifieds right now!  Check it out!

Thanks.  -Scot

You might also find this one interesting. banjohangout.org/classified/26220