abbey - Posted - 12/19/2011:  18:08:27

I have a Bart Reiter Galax, A flat scale. I love this banjo, but lately it sounds a bit muddy. It sounds best, and nearly normal, when playing in G, but when I use either my Shubb or Keyser capo it doesn't sound clear anymore. Maybe related, I also having trouble keeping it in tune lately. The screws in the tuners seem like they are tight enough but I am cautious about applying too much pressure. What should I try?

I very much want to learn to make changes in the setup of my banjo. Are there any good books or websites to help me learn? 

jbalch - Posted - 12/19/2011:  18:40:29

Abbey:

If the muddy sound problem exists only when you capo ... maybe your capo(s) are the culprits.  I wouldn't go out and spend a bunch on new capos immediately.  But If you get a chance, try a couple of different types.  When evaluating capos, I like to go back-and-forth from one type to another -play each for a while - and and compare the sound.  You might be surprised how much difference a capo makes. 

I've used all different types.  I used Shubb capos for years (I've tried Keyser too).  But frankly I get a lot better results with a screw type (like Paige, or the high end Elliott/McKinney, or others).  The absolute best sounding capo I have for my Reiter banjos is a John Pearse Ole Reliable.  It is a brass screw type that costs about $30.  It makes a noticeable difference in the way my Reiter banjo sounds vs. other capos.

This is the guitar version (only photo I could find online):

If your tuners are slipping, I'd tighen the screws a bit more.  I keep mine fairly tight. If you get them too tight, the tuners will be harder to adjust.  But you can always back off a bit.  Just experiment until you find the right balance of ease of tuning...and reliablility.

Most of the set-up guides I've seen are aimed at bluegrass banjos.  In fact, I'm not familiar with anything specific to open back instruments. Many of the same principals apply ... but there are significant differences in construction the must ne taken into account too (like dowel stick vs. coordinator rods). Here is an old standby resource for general set-up:   amazon.com/How-Set-Best-Soundi...793589983

Edited by - jbalch on 12/19/2011 18:55:02

blanham - Posted - 12/19/2011:  20:09:27

Abbey,

I don't know your background with banjo playing, but at first I thought my Reiter was a little muddy sounding.  Maybe it was perception due to my bluegrass background.  The cure for that was to put some stuffing between the dowel stick and the head up where the neck is attached to the pot.  After playing clawhammer a few years, I no longer stuff, and voila, same banjo doesn't seem muddy at all.  I'd recommend trying the stuffing a while.  After you spend some time with your banjo I think you can actually affect the overtones just by the way you play, and it will come naturally.  ( I agree, capos and good tuning are factors too, and old strings become hard to tune.)

RBagoly - Posted - 12/19/2011:  20:10:44

How old are your strings?

abbey - Posted - 12/19/2011:  20:26:15

Thank you for the replies.

jbalch--  I've never heard of the John Pearse old reliable capo; I want to buy one and try it.  I'll try adjusting the screws again tomorrow. I've been afraid of stripping out the screws but maybe I don't need to be quite as careful as I have been.

blanham-- I've been playing a bit less than three years but I've had this banjo for almost a year and it doesn't sound like it did. At its best, I consider it to be pretty much the perfect banjo for me.

RBagoly- The strings are about four months old. 

Thanks,

Abbey

Bart McNeil - Posted - 12/20/2011:  02:34:43

Sounds like you have a nice banjo.

How much do you play it (Hours per day)?

Have you replaced your strings? I would assume 4 month old strings would be OK. But it may depend on how much you play.

Any banjo will need adjusting during that long a time. At least mine do.

Have you checked your head tension? (even a Mylar head can need adjusting or just a little tweeking as the pot can change with temperature or humidity variations.

Do you do any adjustment of your banjo,? Check out frets.com for info on set up and adjustment information to optimize playing and sound possibilities. There are undoubtedly other sites as well.

I would guess it is just a matter of normal tweaking to get it to optimal sound and ease of playing. Being a wooden instrument it can change over time and require periodic adjustment. It is made to be adjusted and you should learn how, if you don't already know.

steve davis - Posted - 12/20/2011:  04:10:56

I also look at the head tension first when the banjo doesn't sound right.

jbalch - Posted - 12/20/2011:  05:05:02

Abbey:

The other commenters raise very good points. 

Strings - maybe it is time for a new set. I don't change stings often any more. Sometimes a set will last for many months. But when the banjo begins to sound dull...try new strings.  Often that is all it takes.  I use the CRYO strings from American made banjo Co. on some open backs. They last a long time and have a nice clear bright sound. Give them a try: americanmadebanjo.com/index.ph...ath=28_29

Head: - the way I evaluate head tension is by sound. "Torque" settings and "deflection" measurements and all the other things people talk about are fine and good...but sound is all that really matters (IMHO). Measurements and technical gadgets can account for some factors ...but not necessarily everything that affects tone. I think they are a poor substitute for listening carefully to the banjo and adjusting for sound.

Here is a simple thing to practice and learn: Play the note on the first string at the 17th fret (or higher - 21st fret if your banjo is not scooped). Focus and listen very carefully to the tone of that note. It should ring clear with a long even sustain and gentle decay. If the sound of that note is muffled ...or "wavy" sounding ...head tension is probably the culptit. If the note is unclear ... adjust the head tension (tighten) all around the rim in very small increments and try again. Forget this 1/4 turn advice that is often given ... sometimes I adjust in 1/16" of a turn or less. Just barely tweak the wrench...then play the note again and listen.

When you get a good sound from the very high notes ...chances are you will love the sound of your banjo overall. This takes a little practice...you really have to learn how to listen.  But head tension is the most important factor in tone. When you get it right, you will love the results.

Bridge - sometimes the string slots can wear and become too wide.  That causes the strings to be improperly seated and can lead to a muffled or muddy tone.  A new bridge can really make a big difference.  I use Gary Sosebee bridges on my Reiter banjos.  You can find them at online retailers or buy directly from Gary on ebaY:  ebay.com/itm/Sosebee-Select-Ba...c221826b7

Edited by - jbalch on 12/20/2011 05:09:06

steve davis - Posted - 12/20/2011:  05:41:52

Head tension doesn't cost anything.