Rizo - Posted - 02/14/2014:  07:12:16

I decided that on one of my upcoming builds, that I'm going to try some fretboard inlay beyond the basic dots that I've been doing. I was feeling fairly intimidated about the prospect of carving out the spots for the inlays. So, I was about ready to pay $53 for a Dremel router base from StewMac, when decided I could make my own. Here's the result, so far untested, but I'm confident. 

I used plexi-glass, so I could see my working lines easy enough, some all-thread, some nuts, and springs to hold tension on the nuts (vibration). I think I have about 10 bucks in the whole thing. Anyway, I thought I'd share it. Feel free to steal/improve the design. 

(As always, appolgies for the quality of my photos. One of these days I'll buy a real camera and stop using my phone.) 

Jonnycake White - Posted - 02/14/2014:  08:50:39

Nowadays phones come with real cameras.  But don't apologize, the picture is fine.

One thing I would suggest - though it might be fine the way it is - is to put a couple of handles over those threaded rods sticking up.

Also I'd like to know more about how you mounted the Dremel to the base.

Thanks,

Jon

Rizo - Posted - 02/14/2014:  09:04:46

Johnny, you bring up a good point. I was going to wrap them with tape or something, but if I ever needed to take it apart completely, that could be a real pain, so I plan on using it without handles. Should be ok, just not as comfortable. 

I took two lock nuts (the kind with the plastic insert) and set them on the plexi and carefully used a generous amount of plastic epoxy to glue the plastic part of the lock nut to the clear plastic. I doubt it'll hold forever, but considering that's what been holding my Jeep's stereo together for 2 years, I think it'll work! 

Alternately, you could countersink some bolt heads from the underside and bolt the whole thing together, but I went this route so I'd have as few things to snag on the bottom as possible. 

rudy - Posted - 02/14/2014:  09:28:41

Nice job, Rizo.  Your top tool mount might give you problems with not being rigid enough, but you can always change it out to a thicker piece.

I used one of the $12 replacement tool bars that Stu-Mac used to sell for their router base, but they stopped selling them for some reason.

Edited by - rudy on 02/14/2014 09:30:56

m_watson - Posted - 02/14/2014:  15:08:22

When StewMac upgraded the router bases with a dust blower nozzle a few years ago, the newer mounting bars were briefly sold separately as a convenience upgrade for customers who had older bases. Simple as that. :-)

Rizo - Posted - 02/14/2014:  16:02:49

I'd like to point out, I once lived, literally, in the shadow of the StewMac building. I don't mean to imply that their tools are rip offs, I love the 5th string reamer and the neck shaping files, but this one seemed so simple I couldn't help but build it myself. They're a great company, and make quality stuff. I'm a fan.

(And if anyone from StewMac is reading, can I make one request? Those Golden Age slot head tuners? Can you make those 2-on-a-plate for banjo, as opposed to 3-on-a-plate for guitar? Seems wasteful to cut 'em down for that Dobson look.)

Edited by - Rizo on 02/14/2014 16:07:10

Dan Drabek - Posted - 02/14/2014:  16:42:19

Your router base looks like it should work. But I think it would be more stable and precise if you used much thicker plexiglass. I don't understand the reason you have used such long threaded rods. You only need as much vertical adjustment as your longest bit. You might consider cutting them down and changing the top nuts for threaded knobs. they would do the same job, and give you a pair of hand grips as well.

DD

Helix - Posted - 02/14/2014:  17:19:42

Noggin, there's somebody usin' their dang noggin again.

BNJOMAKR - Posted - 02/15/2014:  08:05:00

I re-made my old Dremel router base years ago. I removed the plastic base and replaced it with a smaller aluminum base. I enlarged the area around the cutting area and double sided taped clear lexan to the bottom.  I have a sturdier base and also good vision of the tool area. I added a LED light and an air supply.

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