I believe Vega used a variant of the good old lightweight Presto on this model. You can buy them anywhere for $20 or so for the Asian made models. The better quality Presto from Prucha in Czech Republic is perhaps a bit better quality and a bit more expensive.

Here's a BHO Classified for a 1960s Vega Wonder model, showing the Presto-type tailpiece Vega tended to use.  https://www.banjohangout.org/classified/113769  It's really nothing special.

In later years Vega may have used the steel Waverly tailpiece which is a lot heavier, and has an effect on tone. Hard to say if it improves or detracts --- that's a matter of your own taste.  Here is an Asian repro of that tailpiece.   https://www.ebay.com/itm/188312453148?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-166974-028196-7&mkcid=2&mkscid=101&itemid=188312453148&targetid=2275367127251&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=9004754&poi=&campaignid=21987224528&mkgroupid=175515179710&rlsatarget=pla-2275367127251&abcId=10126118&merchantid=113589790&geoid=9004754&gad_source=1&gad_campaignid=21987224528&gbraid=0AAAAAD_QDh_E9Hc4CZIdqD4wn9hPiCsxA&gclid=EAIaIQobChMIiuusxM_FlAMV-WlHAR0Twi4UEAQYAiABEgLaCfD_BwE

Check with Stewart MacDonald, Saga, Greg Boyd Instruments, Smakula, Banjo Ben, or buy a used one here on BHO Classifieds.

There are more tailpiece options than I have patience to type them out. Tailpieces have a way of altering the banjo's tone, so there's no way to tell you what is the best "upgrade".

As far as bridges, there's an almost infinite selection.  I recommend you buy two of the least expensive quality type bridges, which cost around $8 to $12 each.  Buy them in two different heights so you can find out which one gives you clarity of noting and height of string action above the frets that satisfies your ear and hands.   1/2" and 5/8".  In general, a 3 legged bridge made of maple with an ebony "bar" across the top for the strings to rest on.  A happy compromise in height of 1st string above the 12th fret is 1/8".  But you have to have a bridge in place to take that measurement.  Custom mde "boutique" bridges can cost over $50.  Start simple and cheap.  Explore options later once you're playing the banjo.  Same list of suppliers as above.

Pete Seeger himself used several tailpieces, including Presto and No-Knot. I would be cautious with the Golden Gate "New Waverly" tailpiece, it's made out of steel. The older ones were brass, if I remember my info rightly. I don't think it sounds good, and it is very difficult to string.

Let's see what mikehalloran has to say on this…

This is the tailpiece Vega used until the middle of the sixties before they went to the new style Waverly. This tailpiece was also made by Waverly and is a knock-off of the olf Grover Presto. The picture below is kind of hard to see but it's the only one I have downloaded. A regular Presto would probably be your best bet since Waverly hasn't made this style for sixty years.

The Presto was used in the late '50s but then switched to the chrome plated Waverly made Presto variant shown by Mark above in the early 1960s. Waverly was the OEM for a lot of Grover at the time according to Frank Ford who learned about it when StewMac bought Waverly and threw away much of the ephemera and tooling. Anyway, a close examination of one and a Presto shows that they are the same except for the solid bar and grooves and the chrome plate.

Many SS-5s used this same tailpiece. Vega stopped when these proved to be just as fragile as the old Prestos, especially with the Medium gauge strings at the time. .012 .015 .020w .026w .012. These tailpieces, like the Grover Prestos are ok if adjusted so that they float high putting minimum pressure on the bridge. Cranked down, they will break eventually. With today's much lighter string sets, this is less of an issue. Still... The Waverly Presto on my PS-5  has a bead of silver solder reinforcing the right angle bend.

When these broke, Vega replaced them with a newer Waverly that looks similar to the P-110 available from Saga and elsewhere.

The P-110 is different from the replacement Waverly in a couple ways: It's nickel plated steel instead of chrome plated brass. The flip-cover was spring-loaded and riveted to the body on the brass ones. The P-110 cover is held by screws.

I have a both a spare chrome plated Waverly Presto with the solid bar and a chrome plated brass replacement Waverly P-110 style missing its spring-loaded flip cover (the spring is there but I bought it new without the cover in 1969). If anyone is interested, I can offer either for sale. If your broken tailpiece is the newer Waverly, that chrome plated cover can be riveted onto the body and work as new. 

If you don't mind nickel plated steel instead of chrome, the P-110 is a perfectly good replacement on an SS-5 and looks similar. The Saga P-112 “adjustable Presto” doesn't really look like a Grover Presto but is brass and adjustable and built like a tank. Good luck finding one, however. I've had them on backorder going on three years.

My Vega longneck has a 1920s tubaphone pot and a 1961 neck.  I bought this in 1969 from Shackelton's Music Store in Louisville where Thom Haile (Haskell Haile's broither) was the instrument technician.  Thom was also  serviced and maintained the instruments for the Louisville Orchestra.  Shackleton's was a Martin and Vega dealer at the time. Thom may have added the tailpiece or it may be original.  Spikes and a Moon bridge (and strings) are the only changes I have made over the years.

David

Thanks to everyone for their invaluable responses. The tailpiece is indeed a presto. The tab that held the screw to the bracket shoe broke off. I will be tracking down a replacement based on all of your inputs. Again, Many thanks.

As for the bridge. Again thanks for the input. I'm absolutely new to changing anything on my banjo. Best regards. Glenn

Coming into the thread late, but I reckon the "quickest/cheapest" way is to get a Gibson-style Presto tailpiece and use that.

Another possibility I didn't see mentioned above would be a Kershner. I have one on my 1964 Vega Seeger model. They were pretty cheap back when I bought mine (probably close to 50 years ago now!), but have gotten pricier.

Aside:
Mike mentioned the Saga P-112 adjustable Presto (as were used on the original GoldStar banjos). Sure wish they'd "come into stock" again -- I'd buy a couple.

I’d go either with heaviest merely to offset long neck and possible neck dive tendency. I’ve never weighed but I assume an Ottinger (spelling) finger tailpiece might be heaviest but they are also several times more expensive. Maybe kershner best balance of weight vs cost. If you can address neck balance by added weight at pot, I think it’ll help. If you have no neck dive and plays fine, standing for hour or two, anything with sufficient down pressure should work. Ode tailpiece is heavy also, if neck dive is issue.
I used to think all Presto sound alike, but over the last 15 years or so, the import presto copies have gotten much worse in both tone and ability to string. My main consideration is helping you offset neck balance, which I feel will be an issue to some degree .

Good luck, now you are a real longnecketeer Think of it as as going for the best tires for the long road trip

I use good brass tailpieces on my longer necked banjos

What spikes or capos will you use

I had one customer I learned much from regarding spike and capo placement because he used the key of F as his baseline for HIS voice, and that is the true versatility of 25 frets, because the Lion Sleeps Tonight A Wimowe, JAMBO Simbarara (Tiger)
(See Seeger and the Weavers)

On this Memorial Day in ‘26, we molt

Re: neck dive, use a cradle strap and pull the banjo body around to the right

(.   ))====='== :: }

quote:

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Originally posted by Brett

I’d go either with heaviest merely to offset long neck and possible neck dive tendency. I’ve never weighed but I assume an Ottinger (spelling) finger tailpiece might be heaviest but they are also several times more expensive. Maybe kershner best balance of weight vs cost. If you can address neck balance by added weight at pot, I think it’ll help. If you have no neck dive and plays fine, standing for hour or two, anything with sufficient down pressure should work. Ode tailpiece is heavy also, if neck dive is issue.
I used to think all Presto sound alike, but over the last 15 years or so, the import presto copies have gotten much worse in both tone and ability to string. My main consideration is helping you offset neck balance, which I feel will be an issue to some degree .

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While the Ode tailpiece made by Elton is the beefiest one can buy (used—none have been made in decades), it is nowhere near heavy enough to offset neck dive.

Longneck players either accept and deal with neck dive or they go with the Pete Seeger solution and install an eyebolt directly into the neck.