I was looking at a 70s rb250 and idk if the 10 ply rim would be the same to a 3ply rim and is it even worth it or should I just save up a little bit more and get one from the 60s
RB250s from that era don't get a lot of love these days. The multi-ply rims were known to delaminate. Still, Gibson did let some really good ones slide out the door. If you can try it out, you can decide if it's worth buying. If the rim delaminates, these days there are a lot of people who can turn a rim for the existing hardware, and you can wind up with a lot better banjo than it was to begin with.
Steve Huber, Eric Sullivan, Chris Sorensen, Ron Coleman, Randall Wyatt, Hunter Lemon, and Warren Yates are all banjo makers who are set up to turn rims.
Welcome to the Hangout. I encourage you to use the archives as there is a ton of discussion about this topic. Using Google search restricted to banjohangout.org is the best way to search the archives.
To the topic, it really depends on the price, your knowledge, and what you're willing to do to make them right. They can still be a good deal, if the price is low enough. To answer your question, no a 10-ply rim would not perform the same way a 3-ply would. 70s Gibsons have other issues beyond the rim. I probably wouldn't recommend them to a novice unless you want a bit of a project. Going further, this might ruffle some feathers but, in 2025, I wouldn't recommend any Gibson. There's just so many good options out there nowadays, and Gibsons carry to much collector value (ie they're overpriced) to be a good buy for someone looking for a player's banjo.
Edited by - KCJones on 11/15/2025 17:33:04
I can’t try it out it’s 10 hours away?? but it for 975 bucks and I can buy it right now it’s in ok condition and playes and everything so I don’t know if I should buy it
It’s cheap and I think I would be a fun project
For $975 it's probably worth buying, if you buy it understanding that you're buying a project. This is assuming it's in overall decent condition with no real damage or environmental degradation.
I’m just looking for my first Gibson I use gold star and I got a gf100jd 2020 and I haven’t found another newer banjo that can touch it even in jams is still beats most prewars people play
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Originally posted by BanjomanfrogI can’t try it out it’s 10 hours away?? but it for 975 bucks and I can buy it right now it’s in ok condition and playes and everything so I don’t know if I should buy it
That's a no-brainer price. These are going for around $2000 now. Sometimes more. In a discussion here last week, a member can buy one for $1800 or less. I got a heavily modded one (few original parts) for $1200 in 2018. Under $1000 for one in good condition is fantastic.
The issue with the multi-ply flange was delamination of the outer ply on the bead of wood that retains the tub part of the two-piece flange. If a banjo is not showing this problem after 50 years, it's a safe bet it's not going to happen. The other known problem was disintegration of the binding. Again, if the binding is intact on a 50-year-old banjo and showing no hint of pending failure, it's probably not the problematic bnding.
Maybe the fit of tone ring to rim wasn't the best. I don't know. In good shape, these are playable banjos that sound good and are the most affordable way to get a genuine Gibson Mastertone.
Because these are not vintage or collectible banjos, total originality of parts is not a big deal. As Mark says, you could replace the multi-ply rim with a modern 3-ply rim and greatly improve the banjo's structural integrity and sound.
Edited by - Old Hickory on 11/15/2025 17:51:18
Much attention given here to the crappy rim, rightly deserved in my opinion, but also, the fingerboard inlay is probably the sloppiest I've every seen on the era of Gibson.
When I was 18 in 1978 and ready to upgrade to a better banjo there was a music store in SPartanburg SC that carried all the current banjo brands, Gibson, OME, ODE, Leo, Aria, Alvarez ... so I got to compare them side by side. The Gibson was the worst, I ended up buying an Aria which blew the Gibson away. Not even close.
But at that price you mention it's a decent deal ... if it's an authentic Gibson.
Most likely, it is an authentic Gibson. Nobody except the Japanese copied a 1970s RB250, and some of them were better than what Gibson was making at the time.
For $975 that is a good buy even if you have to replace the rim and the binding.
Buy it, unless you have a line on a solid early 60’s instrument at a similar very good price.
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Originally posted by Old Hickory
The issue with the multi-ply flange . . .
Put brain in gear before engaging typing fingers.
Of course, I meant rim.
It's a good price for sure, but funny thing is, even at $975... You replace the rim, replace the ring too? Redo the binding, fix any other issues. You're still going to be into it for $2000, and it'll be almost (but not quite) as good as a used Sullivan for the same price...
Or you could find a 70s Ibanez Artist for like 400 bucks and it'll play better than the Gibson anyway without any mods. 
Edited by - KCJones on 11/16/2025 09:12:37
You could part that thing out and get at least $975 for the original neck and at least $300 for the resonator. If it has the original "Gibson" stamped peghead tuners with all the original buttons, they could be worth maybe $200. I paid $100 shipped for a Gibson-stamped 70s clamshell tailpiece for my modded one. It already had the original Gibson-stamped two-legged armrest.
If it has the original case, with "Gibson" printed on it, that's probably worth $200 or so in good condition."The Gibson," which came later, is worth even more, I think.
I'm not suggesting you do any of this. Just emphasizing why $975 is a ridiculously great price if the banjo is in playable shape. If the finish or metal are dull (and the nickel on these did tend to dull after a bunch of years) it can be polished back to a pleasant appearance. If the lacquer on the wood is not worn through the color (which was in the lower coats of lacquer, not the wood) there is no harm in having a well-done over-spray of lacquer to restore its lustre. Again: not vintage or collectible, so original finish is not a point of value (in my opinion). If color is worn through, exposing the wood color (even if it's under the clear sealer) you're looking at a refinish (if you choose not to live with the worn look).
My point is: $975 is a low-enough price that you can justify a few hundred dollars of additional investment (if needed) to improve the banjo and your total investment would still be lower than its resale value.
Unlike my now total investment in my original $1200 "bargain"!
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Originally posted by KCJonesIt's a good price for sure, but funny thing is, even at $975... You replace the rim, replace the ring too? Redo the binding, fix any other issues. You're still going to be into it for $2000 . . .
Funny. I posted within seconds of this and came to a different conclusion!
But I'm not suggesting replacing the tone ring. I'd consider replacing the rim if it were failing. I'd keep the tone ring -- whether it's one of the early light weight ones or the later heavy "GBB" rings -- expecting a better rim and better fit to be enough improvement. If the banjo didn't sound good, I wouldn't buy it in the first place.
I'd try to keep the investment in this well under $2000, for exactly the reason you say.
Totally agree Ken. The parts alone are worth more than 975 to the right buyer. I'd probably buy it if it were me. Just playing devils advocate. Idk why anyone would ever advocate for the devil though, hmmmm
As others have mentioned, that price is about half of what other RB-250's from that time period are selling for. Unless it's spent some time underwater...
Have you seen pics of this banjo?
A good number of them?
I'm thinking that even if it's in pretty fair shape, the Goldstar you have now may be as good or even better...
