I mounted a new skin head for a special banjo. I had stopped using skin as its such a PITA, but I want to keep this banjo as original as possible. I have read that a light spray of ScotchGuard, or WaterSeal can help keep the skin more weather-stable. I tried such on some head trimming scraps and it leaves a slight sheen, but I have no idea about possible damage to the skin, or long-term longevity and wear. Your thoughts please.
You will find that those waterproofers are either loaded with PFAS (bad) or silicone (should not be near a banjo or musical instrument).
Spraying silicone on the head, it will eventually be transferred to the rest of the banjo-- forget about any future repairs.
My experience is that topical treatements (leather waterproofer sprays, etc.) don't really do much. I stopped using them along time ago.
I sometimes apply an oil-based wood finish (tru-oil) to top & bottom of a mounted head. But that is mainly for appearance (stained heads especially). It enhances the pattern and adds a glossy sheen . The oil finish might improve stability (a little bit - not a lot). You can wax the finished head to cut the sheen.
I think the best way to achieve maximum stability is to mount the hide properly in the first place. I stretch them tighter while wet now than I did when I first started out. I also always set the crown just a little lower than where I want it to end up ... allowing room for some more stretching.
MOST of the skins I mount nowdays are salt-processed goat hides. I like them to be between .013" and .015" thick (ideal). Those hides are very sturdy and work best when set up tightly. Properly mounted, they can be quite stable and reliable.
Best wishes!
Edited by - jbalch on 09/26/2025 12:42:48
It hasn't been necessary for me to put anything on a skin banjo head.
But, if I did, it would be a light spray of chalk art fixatif or Aqua Net aerosol.
quote:
Originally posted by Joel HooksYou will find that those waterproofers are either loaded with PFAS (bad) or silicone (should not be near a banjo or musical instrument).
Spraying silicone on the head, it will eventually be transferred to the rest of the banjo-- forget about any future repairs.
First, let me tell you that my knowledge is in general museum quality restoration, so I am familiar with many chemical and restoration processes. My favorite is old fashioned elbow grease. Why? Because it forces me to work slowly and methodically. I also try to "marry" elements logically. I think the best thing you can put on a skin is an ever so slight amount of animal fat. I recently restored/converted a banjolin from ~1910. The skin was very dry, but not cracked. I used less than an 1/8th of a tsp of camel fat on it. I rubbed it in, let it sit and then wiped it down with a microfiber cloth. It is excellent. You could do the same with maybe beef tallow. IDK, maybe this idea with cause others to recoil. If you're going to put anything on it, might be best to use an animal product. Many waterproofing chemicals contain petroleum. I don't think this would be beneficial in the long run. Good luck!
I've heard that treating hide heads with hardwax oil and/or renaissance wax can work to good effect with minimal issues. I do not know the process for this treatment, but have heads with it and they are relatively stable in various weather conditions.
Edited by - KCJones on 09/27/2025 05:34:53
Go with a fyberskin or Renaissance head. They are stable and also sound great. You can play with different bridges for a different sound.
I love my skin head and plastic head banjos. If I don't want to mess with tuning, I grab a banjo with a plastic head.
quote:
Originally posted by markxshermanGo with a fyberskin or Renaissance head. They ... sound great.
They sound good enough for what they are. But plastic heads can't hold a candle to a properly made and properly tensioned hide head.
Thanks for the good discussion! I've decided to go "bareback" on the head, leaving it untreated.
