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Jun 11, 2025 - 6:16:35 AM
3554 posts since 1/17/2004

I've managed to extract my Nechville Atlas from Russia where I left it with a friend when my wife and I were forced to leave hurriedly in 2022. I forgot that the top of one spike had broken off. I bought it used and whoever installed the spikes may have filed that one too much, or the spike itself might have been flawed metal.

How would you repair mavens go about fixing this? There's not enough left to grip with ordinary pliers - see photo. No idea if glue was used. I have no tools anymore so I'll probably take it to the one good guitar repair shop in my area. The only work they say they've done with banjos is truss rod adjustment and fret work, but they do everything with guitars and have tools. So I'm mainly seeking suggestions to pass along to them.


Edited by - MrNatch3L on 06/11/2025 06:19:20

Jun 11, 2025 - 6:46:29 AM

16564 posts since 6/2/2008

It appears to me there's enough of the spike above the fretboard to grab it with the side/edge of needle-nose pliers. The luthier yoou take it to will, or should, have a fret-pulling tool that on which the business ends of the jaws are very thin. Perfect for gripping the stub.

Another extraction method is to drill a very narrow hole immediately alongside the spike. This can allow moving/pushing the spike and eventually grabbing it with needle nose pliers. Then the enlarged hole needs to be plugged and redrilled for a new spike.

Yet another method is file teeth into a piece of very narrow metal tubing to use as a plug-cutting drill bit. Put the tube into a drill and drill around the spike until it can be removed. Plug the hole and redrill for a new spike.

If your luthier has never installed capo spikes, have him watch Richie Dotson's how-to videos.

Jun 11, 2025 - 6:53:49 AM

140 posts since 11/3/2015

I would use side-cutters (dykes) rather than needle nose pliers, which would struggle to find a grip. If you grip it gently from the side, you should be able to lever the spike out by pushing the grips down.

Jun 11, 2025 - 8:16:02 AM
like this

3049 posts since 9/18/2010

Agree, flush-ground cutters, but I will add: heat it with a soldering iron first. That will melt any glue that might be there, and make the wood more flexible for easier removal.

Jun 12, 2025 - 6:31:32 PM
like this

81031 posts since 5/9/2007

I ground down a tiny pair of end-nippers for situations like this,
Sand away the outside bevel to flat and the inside angle remains and lifts the offending spike.
Warm up the spike with a small soldering iron first.
Some tools are quite cheap.

Jun 14, 2025 - 6:32:43 PM

Fathand

Canada

12504 posts since 2/7/2008

I think I would try a small pair of end cutters to grab that.

I agree with the above. Heat it with a soldering iron first to break down any glue.

I once gave a woman some spikes, she "had a luthier" to install them. She soon brought the banjo to me for the install because the "luthier" said he would have to destroy the neck to install them. Moral: use someone who knows what they are doing, that's not always guitar techs.

I wonder if model train guys have good ideas on pulling broken railroad spikes?

Jun 24, 2025 - 4:06:27 AM

257 posts since 3/3/2008

I've pulled many spikes (broken, mispositioned or to change direction) with these
stewmac.com/luthier-tools-and-...et-cutter

Jul 4, 2025 - 8:22:11 AM

20 posts since 6/5/2020

This might be a good solution: a.co/d/b2g29Cr
(BTW, These also work great for pulling frets.)

Jul 4, 2025 - 8:42:24 AM

81031 posts since 5/9/2007

If all else fails you can file what's left down to flush with the board and drill a new hole in front of behind it for a new spike.

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