What type of hammer would you all recommend for railroad spike installation? I have a household clawhammer for hanging paintings and other household chores, and a much heavier framing hammer for work. Both I think would be too large for the job. I certainly don't want to mar my frets or fretboard. What are you guys using? A tack hammer? What size? Any tips/tricks?
Many thanks in advance.
Tack hammer would work.
I use a small brass armorers hammer and am careful not to tip in towards the outset of the spike.
If you're driving the spike into a pilot hole, as is customary, I would suggest that you use a round, flat point punch in combination with a hammer. If you use a punch to drive the spike, you can use any common clawhammer or ball peen hammer without worrying about damaging your fingerboard with the hammer. If you don't have a punch, you could use any common bolt with a diameter of 1/4" or 3/8".
If you use a punch at least use a brass punch. The above post reminded me I also use a brass punch at times. ...and always pre-drill the pilot hole using the jig and bits sold here by Hans (Spike Tyke jig)
I never use a hammer. I drill a pilot hole that is appropriate for the fretboard's species of wood. Eg, .030" drill for softer rosewoods. .035" for ebony or Richlite. Then I push the spikes into the pilot holes with needle nose pliers.
I average about 100 spike installations a year.
Bob Smakula
Edited by - Bob Smakula on 05/14/2025 12:03:56
Thanks guys. I like the idea of a punch. I'll look into the jig set up as well.
quote:
Originally posted by Bob SmakulaI never use a hammer. I drill a pilot hole that is appropriate for the fretboard's species of wood. Eg, .030" drill for softer rosewoods. .035" for ebony or Richlite. Then I push the spikes into the pilot holes with needle nose pliers.
I average about 100 spike installations a year.
Bob Smakula
Thanks Bob. Do you use a dab of glue?
quote:
Originally posted by TScottHiltonThanks Bob. Do you use a dab of glue?
Rarely do I use glue. If I install a spike and it feels a touch loose, I might use the tiniest drop of super glue, but they are usually tight enough to stay in place.
If I am unsure about the fretboard's hardness, I drill the pilot hole on the small side.
If I err on the side of too big, more than I would use a mictodrop of glue, I use a sliver of mahogany to help fill the hole.
Bob Smakula
I find it hard to believe that no one has yet suggested the proverbial nine pound hammer. 
I can never find my punch when I need it so the short end of an Alan wrench will work just fine too.
quote:
Originally posted by reubenstumpI find it hard to believe that no one has yet suggested the proverbial nine pound hammer.
Eh... it's a little too heavy...
quote:
Originally posted by Bob Smakulaquote:
Originally posted by reubenstumpI find it hard to believe that no one has yet suggested the proverbial nine pound hammer.
Eh... it's a little too heavy...
You just need a light touch.
I "sight" a drill bit that lets the spike show just past both sides of the bit.
I drill the hole around .025" too short and tap the unglued spike onto a .012" feeler gauge blade.
Well folks, I got my spikes installed... And I'm a little embarrassed at how poorly it went. I installed several practice spikes in a pine board which went very smoothly. I should have used a slightly larger drill bit for the harder ebony. I kept bending spikes and having to start again. I used the bit to enlarge the hole just a tiny bit at a time.
By the time I got the spikes in and oriented the way I wanted, they were pretty chewed up and I had to file them smooth.
But they are in and they work and I didn't beat up the fretboard. A learning experience to be certain.
Also, should I be concerned about the possibility of the string tension snapping the head of the spike off over time? Seems like too much hammering and bending could weaken the spike and make it unstable. Seems nice and solid now, but is there potential for that?
Edited by - TScottHilton on 05/19/2025 09:41:53
quote:
Originally posted by TScottHiltonAlso, should I be concerned about the possibility of the string tension snapping the head of the spike off over time? Seems like too much hammering and bending could weaken the spike and make it unstable. Seems nice and solid now, but is there potential for that?
Just think of the Deering banjos that use a spike for the 5th string, instead of a pip. I've never had, or heard of one, breaking.
Thanks Dean! I guess I just mean that in my inexperience I hammered and bent and filed these spikes more than someone normally would, and perhaps that would cause some weakness. I know the more times you bend a piece of metal, the more likely it is to break.
"... I hammered and bent and filed these spikes more than someone normally would... ."
Sounds good to me ... ya got 10 banjos worth of experience on one go-round.
"But they are in and they work and I didn't beat up the fretboard. A learning experience to be certain."
Nice job. They look good. Spaced from the fret well. Aligned under the string. Head parallel to fret. And they work. 
"should I be concerned about the possibility of the string tension snapping the head of the spike off over time?"
Nope. Anything can be fixed easily. If one pops out, you glue it back down. If the head bends or breaks off, you pull the shaft out with pliers and put another one in. You're more experienced than most players at this point.
Thanks guys. I guess if anything goes wrong I can address it like you said :)
The whole thing has made me appreciate everyone's advice and expertise.
