Is there a correct lateral position for the bridge? On my Mastertone, I have the third string lined up so that it crosses directly over the center inlays on the upper part of the fretboard. But I have seen photos of banjos (ie., in Jim Mills' book) that show varying lateral positions, which makes me wonder if a standard exists.
The lateral position of the bridge is functional. I position the bridge such that the distance from the sides of the neck to the strings is about the same for the 1st string and the 5th string, up around the 22nd (or last) fret. If the 1st string is a bit too close to the edge, then will shade a little toward the 5th string.
If both 1st and 5th strings end up too close to the edge (or too far), then I either fill and recut the bridge slots or get a new bridge and cut the slots.
Don't have any control over exactly where the inlays end up, and they can be more off center than the acceptable error band from the 1st or 5th strings to the edges of the fingerboard.
Hope this helps.
Edited by - Alex Z on 04/16/2025 10:25:37
After a string or bridge change, I tune up, then I place a finger on each end of the bridge, and slide it back and forth, and gauge the string pressure, and make sure the bridge is at the “center of string pressure” for lack of a better term. All it takes is one time at a gig, and you’re playing along, and you hear a strange pfoof sound, and suddenly everything is out of tune…. Because the bridge centers itself. This is really important on a frosted head, where the bridge sticks in place, but can move at a most inopportune time. The Ren, and Fiberskin heads are more slippery, and the bridge tends to center itself much easier. I’ve never really cared where the strings line up with the inlays. As for the distance between the strings and edge of the neck, I’ve always been able to rectify that with other set up issues, specifically tailpiece position. There’s usually enough slop in the tailpiece bracket, to reposition the tailpiece for proper string alignment. Worst case scenario, after making sure the neck installation is good, is a slight elongation in the TP bracket hole, to line the tail piece up, and get the strings centered.
That’s helpful, thanks. Equal distance from both edges of the neck makes sense. Too close to either side and either the first string or fifth string note sharp.
Bridge placement, neck edge-to-string distances (i.e., "string centering") is often or usually predetermined by the banjo's basic parts assembly and 'locating'.
First, the neck must be properly centered on the 3rd string longitudinal axis through the rim's precision-measured center line.
Next, the flange must be centered accurately relative to the longitudinal axis by centering the heel cutout, tailpiece attachment hole, and tension rod holes.
Last, after dropping on the head, the stretcher band must be centered by both, the fretboard/string notch, tension hook notches, AND, any tailpiece 'locaters' (think Stelling tailpiece pins).
Now, having reassembled the banjo, or adjusted its basic parts, to factory-build specifications you 'should' have everything in proper alignment and position to locate the bridge such that the #1 and #5 strings are equidistant from the neck edge.
The string and bridge locations you can understand now largely depend on if and how accurately the basic banjo parts (the banjo's 'foundation') were initially machined and assembled. Even then, very few things in life are perfect so slight adjustments, baby taps, and very slight shifts may be necessary.
Banjos are not made perfectly, exactly, and with an infinitesimal error tolerance. That's one of the prime reasons the BHO has grown so large and existed so long. 
If the bridge slips left or right when playing, that's a sign that something else is not aligned -- could be neck angle sideways (the yaw, not the pitch) or tailpiece. Both of those can be adjusted for small corrections. There can be bigger errors in manufacturing that may have to be corrected, as "factory specs" may be intention of the factory, but not always the practice.
Note that some tailpieces, such as Stelling, kershner, and Ome, are adjustable left to right. Others can be moved a bit. Necks can be shimmed.
The main object is playability on the neck. That's how success is judged. Have to get those strings where they are supposed to be along the fingerboard, and adjust other things around that. Won't notice something off when playing on the first five or seven frets, but playing higher up the neck, it has to be playable.
Get yourself a straightedge as long as your banjo.
See if the following are all in a straight-line:
- The 3rd string nut slot
- The center of the 22nd fret
- The 3rd string bridge slot
- The center of the back of the tailpiece
- The center of the bolt that holds the bracket that holds the tailpiece.
I've re-aligned necks that were "off" using some patience and a dremel sanding wheel to sand one side of the contact patches where the neck touches the tone-ring & rim. In at least one case, an improvement in sound occurred.
If the inlays are centered correctly and the neck is cut correctly, the 3rd string should be centered as you describe. If there is a variance, I want the extra space for the bottom string.
Align the 3rd string nut slot with the 3rd string bridge slot, with the center of the tailpiece (i.e. the middle of the 3rd string hole on a Presto style tailpiece).
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