I followed some plans from Kreig which makes the pocket jig for my woodwork shop out back. I’m building some test banjo hangers for a final design for my office library to hold my banjo on the wall. I received good feedback on the concept of hanging my instrument so I’m committed to getting it off the stand or out of the case and on the wall. I now have two chuck lee banjos one whyte laydie and one Irish tenor and they have different headstock shapes. I’m planning to eventually refine this design to have the top shaped like the respective headstock for each instrument. I’m also going to reinforce the connection from the arms to the back plate with some pieces of brass’s. I’m going to pad the inside of the hanger with leather around it and on the top. So far I’m pleased with the shapes and size. I’ll probably refine the shape for each individual instrument neck and head. I’ll probably use Texas mesquite for one and Osage orange for the other. I’m also probably going to put a small well behind the arms of one on the shelf to hold tuner and pick. I’ve picked spots that are out of the sun, away from traffic and on interior walls and I’ll mount directly to studs. I think these will work.
You need a triangular bracket joining the vertical to the horizontal.
I've used tanned cowhide on my stands without ill effect, but I've heard that the chemicals/acids/?? in tanned leather can be bad for some finishes.
Edit: Further to lapsteel's comment, I'd probably have the back plate extend down a bit below the horizontal "finger" plate ... rabbet (?) the horizontal plate in, and put my triangular brace underneath. I like glued-in dowel pins to reinforce joints .... or where there could be a possibility of the wood splitting [on the "legs" of the keyhole??]. But I'm a putterer more so than a woodworker, so .............. ???
I do like the idea of the scoop for picks. 
Edited by - Owen on 04/01/2025 09:10:47
I think the suggested triangle reinforcing bracket can go on the underneath side at the back.
You could also mount these on the top narrow edge of 1x2 or 3 cut as long as the hanger is wide. Maybe not the same amout of support as a triangular piece, but something. And easier to securely attach to the wall.
I really like the design idea of cutting the vertical back piece to the shape of the peghead of the banjo being hung on that hanger.
Thanks all. I’m actually planning to use brass rods with threaded ends at an angle (likely 45 degrees) from the backplate to the horizontal plate with the cradle for the instrument. I’ll use a jig to create a pocket hole in the bottom and back of the unit respectively and I have this chunky brass rod stock that I’ll put a 45 degree lip on that then goes into a thread. I’ve found brass easy to work with A trash find of a really crappy, broken harbor freight lathe that I replaced the switch on now works and lets me do some metal work . The lathe lets me manually mill brass and aluminum rod stock pretty simply. I wasn’t trusting the pocket screws alone but I think the brass rods will look good and I’ll let it go to a patina. My library has some brass on it already. These first ones are just mockups with some scrap wood but I think the design will work. My hobbyist wood shop lets me do a lot. I’m currently building a 23 foot racing single scull based on a pocock single set of plans. I’ve built one other single scull from a stitch and glue kit and gave it to a friend who rows with me. I’ve built several strip canoes but the pocock recreation is my magnum opus. It’ll be 11 inches wide. I row every day and live on a big lake in Dallas ft worth. I’m fortunate to have the tools to throw together stuff like this.
Edited by - jsinjin on 04/01/2025 11:36:20
I don't understand what advantage pocket holes offer over screwing straight through the bottom piece into the top piece (as assembled in your samples). I'd think three cabinet screws or comparable would do the job.
But my woodworking skills aren't great, so I'm not trying to talk you out of your plan.
My only input is that the opening should allow the neck to go straight in and straight out. No twisting… or I guarantee you will smack the wall with the pot, no matter how hard you try not to.
Good point on the no neck twisting. Thanks.
I find that the pocket jig, regardless of the pocket depth and the bit, guarantees that my alignment is completely correct through the jig for the screws. In this case the angle is exactly what you’re saying. I just trust myself better drilling the hole with the jig to align the drill as this makes it completely foolproof,.
As a woodworker and furniture builder with 50 years experience, I recommend attaching the horizontal neck holder to the vertical wall mount by using a dado on the wall mount. Cut the dado into the wall mount piece so there is at least 1” of unmolested wood from between bottom edge of the wall board to the bottom of the horizontal board.
Also it might be wise to soften the edges (with a router) of the area contacting the banjo neck before adhering the padding material.
Glue the joint and countersink construction screws (2”-2-1/2” long min) from the rear of the wall mount plate into the horizontal with pre-drilled holes. Rub a bit of bar soap on the screw threads and they will screw in really easy. Use a very hard wood as it will hold the screws better.
In addition to my above post I did not mention that small 90° wooden angle brackets (1” per side) can be fashioned with the single long face at cut at 45°. Glue them underneath the horizontal shelf where it meets the vertical wall board for extra stability. Set them in about 1/8” in from the sides for a nice appearance.
