Can satin lacquer be mixed with gloss lacquer, then sprayed with satisfactory results?
Probably, especially if it is the same brand. You loose some control over the sheen of the final finish, which will be somewhere between gloss and whatever sheen the "satin" lacquer is mixed for.
If you are dealing with different brands you can probably still mix and succeed, but there is a remote possibility that things might not work as intended. I would try in on scrap before proceeding, but that doesn't really tell you anything about how the mixture will hold up over time.
As John said if its the same brand yes but it will ALWAYS BE A STRONG DEGREE OF MATTE AND CAN NEVER BE HIGH GLOSS?
Finishes that are labeled as "hi-gloss", "gloss", "semi-gloss", "satin", and "flat" (example: "flat black") may be blended with flattening agents that essentially determine (when dry or "cured") the finish's measure of light reflectance.
Before finish application, that's why it's important to stir up the can contents thoroughly (or shake the 'rattle can' thoroughly) to re-mix the solids with the solvent vehicles.
(If you were to place your hand to feel the very bottom of a full 5-gallon bucket of lacquer you would feel a 'sludge' of solids material. And in that 'sludge' would include any flattening agents.)
Assuming that a person uses a manufacturer's "compatible" finish components - then say, if you need to 'flatten' a hi-gloss mixture then you simply add a compatible flattener that reduces surface reflectivity.
But, when you've 'flattened' a finish mixture it's irreversible, that is, the new mixture can't (practicably) be 'unflattened'. You got what you've got.
Glossy finishes start with minimal to no flattening agents and of course the final sparkling gloss achieved depends on buffing compounds, buffing wheels, RPMs, etc., but finishes that have flattening agents added to the mix, say a "satin" finish, cannot be made hi-gloss no matter how persistent and frustrated you become.
So the message is, you could 'flatten-down' finish liquids but not 'gloss-up' or 'buff to gloss' an already dried/cured non-gloss finish. But, this short explanation does NOT include the possible go-around to achieve a hi-gloss with secondary gloss over-spray application - that can be very tricky.
Edited by - banjoT1 on 02/23/2025 01:33:27
....by the way, I can offer a bit more information that might be helpful to those folks contemplating upgrading their spray practices from a rattle can to a bone-fide lacquer spray system.
Successful outcomes also depend on overall quality and sizing of spray equipment. If using a spray gun (required for a moderate degree of say, small shop production, including for example, cabinetry and furniture) then the magnitude of regulated and uninterrupted air compressor output is critical. Operating as a 1-person custom shop I eventually bit the bullet and acquired an 80 gallon tank w/ 7hp motor that can work 24/7 for even the most demanding spray and sanding requirements.
Certain lacquer spray PSI's of course will be recommended by the finish manufacturer and/or finish supplier but is equally import the QUANTITY of air supplied to the spray gun. You will find best results if you totally discard all 1/4" hose and related couplings and instead, changeover the air distribution system to 3/8" hose and "C" sized couplings.
Ensure to use the specific spray gun nozzle recommended by the spray gun manufacturer. Nozzles vary in orifice diameter by thousandths of an inch (or metric) that are NOT universally used for all finish types. That is,
lacquer nozzle tips are typically of a different orifice diameter than that used for enamels, alkyds, etc. And, nozzle tips are not cheap, so take care accordingly.
To stop this rambling, I'll last add, that the flow characteristics of your lacquer is important to manage - or manipulate, depending on ambient temperature, wood porosity, run control, etc., etc. Many folks simply use the "add more lacquer thinner" practice to control flowability but I would encourage the small shop person to, instead of relying on lacquer thinner as the "go-to" problem solver, purchase a 1-gallon can of lacquer 'plasticizer' - a liquid, compatible with your lacquer of choice. You will find superior flow performance particularly with such large open pore woods such as pecan, red/white oak, mahogany, zebrano, etc.
Learned from, 1) many expensive mistakes and, 2) excellent recommendations from my primary finish supplier who occasionally worked with me into the wee night hours. [...thank you Don.]
