I used a blowtorch. I would not recommend using a blowtorch.

Using a blowtorch on a junk screwdriver or paperclip or whateverhaveyou is valid for slowly digging out the glue with a hot tool. Good luck not burning your fingers.

Slowly chipping it out with small sharpish tools.

Careful drilling.

I'd love to know a trick that isn't tedious or error prone.  The list goes on... 

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Originally posted by GS

I used a blowtorch. I would not recommend using a blowtorch.

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That's hilarious. I feel like I could start a whole thread warning people about things not to do trying to set up or repair banjos. I'm one of those "hard way" learners!

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Originally posted by pinenut

Using a blowtorch on a junk screwdriver or paperclip or whateverhaveyou is valid for slowly digging out the glue with a hot tool. Good luck not burning your fingers.

Slowly chipping it out with small sharpish tools.

Careful drilling.

I'd love to know a trick that isn't tedious or error prone.  The list goes on... 

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Tedious and error prone, with the chance of burns... sounds like it's right up my alley!

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Originally posted by BanjoDaddy2000

quote:

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Originally posted by GS

I used a blowtorch. I would not recommend using a blowtorch.

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That's hilarious. I feel like I could start a whole thread warning people about things not to do trying to set up or repair banjos. I'm one of those "hard way" learners!

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Yeah, that'd be a funny thread - "How not to do stuff". I'm new to banjo, I'm sure I'll come up with some pearls of wisdom. 

quote:

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Originally posted by pinenut

Using a blowtorch on a junk screwdriver or paperclip or whateverhaveyou is valid for slowly digging out the glue with a hot tool. Good luck not burning your fingers.

Slowly chipping it out with small sharpish tools.

Careful drilling.

I'd love to know a trick that isn't tedious or error prone.  The list goes on... 

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I wish I'd never mentioned blowtorch!!!

quote:

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Originally posted by BanjoDaddy2000

quote:

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Originally posted by pinenut

Using a blowtorch on a junk screwdriver or paperclip or whateverhaveyou is valid for slowly digging out the glue with a hot tool. Good luck not burning your fingers.

Slowly chipping it out with small sharpish tools.

Careful drilling.

I'd love to know a trick that isn't tedious or error prone.  The list goes on... 

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Tedious and error prone, with the chance of burns... sounds like it's right up my alley!

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Who needs tattoos when you have scars?

Sounds like you mean the dried up glue or epoxy is half-filling the hole from the bottom, preventing a new tuner from being seated deep enough. If so, then Kim's advice sounds best: poking and digging with heated sharp tools. I'd also go at it from its interface with the side wall of the hole, because sometimes if old glue is really dried out you can break its bond with the surface and it falls out.

You could possibly grind it out with a flat-bottomed drill bit smaller than the diameter at the base of the hole (because you don't want to remove wood and enlarge the hole's diameter. Go in as deep as you need, then attack the remaining ring of dried glue with the sharp tools already discussed.

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Originally posted by Old Hickory

You could possibly grind it out with a flat-bottomed drill bit smaller than the diameter at the base of the hole (because you don't want to remove wood and enlarge the hole's diameter. 

This reminds me...  Get out the Dremel with small the burr type tools.

also: metal dental picks, scrapers and a magnifying headset.

Dremel Tool with diamond bits. Be gone in no time and the diamond bits will allow careful grinding away of the excess hardened glue. Tape around the hole while working it in case you slip. Keep trying to fit the new peg as you remove the old material to make sure you don't remove too much.

Chemical paint stripper dissolves epoxy. I wouldn't buy a gallon for the few drops I would need.

Some great options here. Thank you!!!

I'll state right off that I've never had to do this.

But since "heat" was mentioned, for a more precise application of heat, would a soldering iron with a long, narrow, pointy tip work...?

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Originally posted by J.Albert

I'll state right off that I've never had to do this.

But since "heat" was mentioned, for a more precise application of heat, would a soldering iron with a long, narrow, pointy tip work...?

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Probably. It would certainly be safer than some of the other methods that could be used.

Harbor Freight has some small picks. The tip of a German carving knife might work. I might even try a Twist drill held directly in my fingers so that I can manage the pressure and keep the speed very slow.

These have gotten a bit pricey since I bought mine 40(!) years ago, but I think I would drill into the glue in the center of the bottom of the hole just big enough to start the 5th peg hole reamer and then gradually ream the tapered hole until the glue is mostly gone and the reamer is just reaching the wood. (Unless, of course, the hole is too big and reaming to the wood means the peg won't fit.) The taper matches the 5th peg so there is a good friction fit and usually no glue is needed, but a little can be used.

Personally, I have never had to do this, but there are several posts about using heat. I bought one of these to bend binding. It has various sizes of tip attachments and one of the small ones may work to concentrate the heat to a needed area.

DISCLAIMER: Not responsible if it doesn't work are causes damage!

Heat Gun,HANDSKIT 600W Fast Heat Mini Hot Air Gun with Reflector Nozzles Portable LCD Digital Temperature Display Heatgun for Soldering DIY Crafting Embossing,Vinyl Wrap,Shrink Tubing,Embossing Tool - Amazon.com

Most glues soften with application of heat.  As noted elsewhere a blowtorch isn't the best way to apply that heat.  I would attempt it with an old soldering iron or wood burning tool (artistic).  This allows the heat to be applied ONLY to the area of concern.  And a set of small picks (dental tools) for pulling the glue out.  Going slowly and carefully, trying not to get any wood.  Epoxy would be tough, but hopefully no one is using that for instruments.

Thank you kindly.

I second the suggestions of using the trusty ole Dremel Moto-Tool.
Joe

Dental burrs work well in a Dremel or similar . Ask your dentist for some used one`s or they are cheap on like & handy for other tasks . U may need a Dremel collet for the dental diameters .

Play dentist for a day.

Or, if you have a dentist who is a good sport, take it to them.

Can you send a photo? I have cleaned up various glues used on violins (amateurs trying to repair cracks, separations, etc.) to include glues in peg holes. I need to see the problem IOT make a recommendation. Don't do anything yet. I love a challenge. Thanks, Vance

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Originally posted by BanjoDaddy2000

Hi All,

I’m swapping out a 5th string tuner that was glued in with a big glob of glue or epoxy of some sort. I heated up the old tuner to break the glue bond and it came out just fine.

The issue is the peg hole is still about half full of dried glue or epoxy and it’s bonded pretty good with the wood.

Anyone have a solution as to how best to get this dried stuff out? The new tuner won’t seat properly with it still in.

Thanks in advance!

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quote:

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Originally posted by banjoez

Dremel Tool with diamond bits. Be gone in no time and the diamond bits will allow careful grinding away of the excess hardened glue. Tape around the hole while working it in case you slip. Keep trying to fit the new peg as you remove the old material to make sure you don't remove too much.

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And if you do remove too much, that's why Our Creator made toothpicks.

quote:

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Originally posted by BanjoDaddy2000

Hi All,

I’m swapping out a 5th string tuner that was glued in with a big glob of glue or epoxy of some sort. I heated up the old tuner to break the glue bond and it came out just fine.

The issue is the peg hole is still about half full of dried glue or epoxy and it’s bonded pretty good with the wood.

Anyone have a solution as to how best to get this dried stuff out? The new tuner won’t seat properly with it still in.

Thanks in advance!

You got the peg out with heat so use heat to get the glue out. If you have a soldering iron or gun put it in the hole to heat up the glue and pull out with a dental pick or something that can get a grasp on the glue. If necessary you could put some water into the hole and heat that as well. If you don't have a soldering iron heat up a bolt or fat nail held with pliers or forceps.

The main problem is you don't want to char the wood or damage the finish which is delicate. Acetone will soften or dissolve epoxy but again, this could mar the finish. Just using a small 1/8th" wood chisel, a bright light aimed in the hole and carefully pick away or tap the chisel handle gently.

In the odd chance that you have old hide glue in there, water and a bit of heat will soften or liquefy it. Really old hide glue can be heated with a torch or heat gun. This causes the glue to bubble and become a charcoal consistency then easily  scraped off.

Just a bit of care and patience along with a good light will do it. Magnifying glasses can also help you see better.

Paul