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Hey all,
Got a set of Gotohs arriving from Mr. Smakula this coming week, and while removing the existing tuners in preparation/measuring I noticed something odd I haven't read about in previous 5th string tuner discussions: the tuner is spring loaded(?) unlike the other 4 peghead tuners, and the shaft that goes into the neck appears to be housed in a metal mortise that looks pretty well stuck in there. I haven't been able to find much info about the banjo itself aside from this BHO article (banjohangout.org/archive/341895 I don't have this exact one but the same model). It's a Supertone from the 30's and I'm not sure whether or not it was made by Harmony (as advertised by the seller), Rettberg & Lange, or some other contractor for Supertone/Sears. Regardless, if any one has experience with this specific banjo or replacements on others with the described peg situation I'm all ears. I'd probably take it to a tech to see if they could try there hand at it but would like to know if it's a lost cause before I drop the cash and get the news the repair can't be done. Thanks in advance!
Jami
A picture is worth . . . well, you know.
If you're seeing the base of the tuner because you've removed the button to reveal it, please take a photo and post it to the Media > Photos section of your profile so we can all see it, too. Someone with knowledge and experience will then be better able to help.
I'm not familiar with old banjos or most friction tuners. But in the previous decade I did have a tough time removing the friction tuner from a 1970s Japanese-made banjo. Maybe its design was similar to what you're dealing with. This one had a small set screw (visible in the photo) holding the base in place. Its head was stripped and I couldn't back it out. I ultimately obliterated the screw by drilling it out on the drill press. My wife assisted in holding the neck steady. Then the base easily unscrewed from the neck.
Does your arrangement look anything like this?
quote:
Originally posted by Old HickoryA picture is worth . . . well, you know.
If you're seeing the base of the tuner because you've removed the button to reveal it, please take a photo and post it to the Media > Photos section of your profile so we can all see it, too. Someone with knowledge and experience will then be better able to help.
I'm not familiar with old banjos or most friction tuners. But in the previous decade I did have a tough time removing the friction tuner from a 1970s Japanese-made banjo. Maybe its design was similar to what you're dealing with. This one had a small set screw (visible in the photo) holding the base in place. Its head was stripped and I couldn't back it out. I ultimately obliterated the screw by drilling it out on the drill press. My wife assisted in holding the neck steady. Then the base easily unscrewed from the neck.
Does your arrangement look anything like this?
I have worked on a number the Kasuga style pegs over the years. I have been fortunate in getting them out easily. However, the hole for these is way too large for a straight 'drop in' fit for a tapered spline geared 5th peg. I end up having to make a tapered wooden plug and glueing it in. After that I redrill the hole then use my tapered reamers to get the correct hole size. The hole has to be a little smaller than the spline as it is taped into the hole.
quote:
Originally posted by banjonz
I have worked on a number the Kasuga style pegs over the years. I have been fortunate in getting them out easily. However, the hole for these is way too large for a straight 'drop in' fit for a tapered spline geared 5th peg. I end up having to make a tapered wooden plug and glueing it in. After that I redrill the hole then use my tapered reamers to get the correct hole size. The hole has to be a little smaller than the spline as it is taped into the hole.
Good to know. Thanks.
But in this case, that's an issue for the Hangout member who bought the neck.
quote:
Originally posted by Old HickoryA picture is worth . . . well, you know.
If you're seeing the base of the tuner because you've removed the button to reveal it, please take a photo and post it to the Media > Photos section of your profile so we can all see it, too. Someone with knowledge and experience will then be better able to help.
I'm not familiar with old banjos or most friction tuners. But in the previous decade I did have a tough time removing the friction tuner from a 1970s Japanese-made banjo. Maybe its design was similar to what you're dealing with. This one had a small set screw (visible in the photo) holding the base in place. Its head was stripped and I couldn't back it out. I ultimately obliterated the screw by drilling it out on the drill press. My wife assisted in holding the neck steady. Then the base easily unscrewed from the neck.
Does your arrangement look anything like this?
Hi there, yes it does look quite close to this! Perhaps the central portion that the peg actually attaches to and turns is a bit further set but generally speaking it is the same. I'll try and get a picture this week to clear up any sort of speculation.
quote:
Originally posted by Bfischer12
Hi there, yes it does look quite close to this!
So on mine, once I drilled out the set screw, I used needle-nose pliers -- one tip in each slot left and right of the button shaft -- to unscrew the base from the neck.
If yours has a similar slot on the surface, have you tried using some sort of tool in it and rotating the unit out of the hole? Do you see a similar set screw that keeps it from turning?
quote:
Originally posted by Old Hickoryquote:
Originally posted by Bfischer12
Hi there, yes it does look quite close to this!So on mine, once I drilled out the set screw, I used needle-nose pliers -- one tip in each slot left and right of the button shaft -- to unscrew the base from the neck.
If yours has a similar slot on the surface, have you tried using some sort of tool in it and rotating the unit out of the hole? Do you see a similar set screw that keeps it from turning?
In this case, I would either use one of my older large screw driver or buy a cheap one and grind the blade to fit the slot them cut a grove in the blade so it can fit into the slot and over the shaft.