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Have spiked several banjos in the past but ran into a problem today. Trying to spike a Recording King R-20, found that with spikes at 8, 9 and 10, the top of those spikes hit the bottom of the string when the string is under the 7th fret spike. I guess that this banjo has lower action that I’m used to but I had to file the top of the spikes significantly to make it work. Spikes were put in deep so that I can barely get the string under. Anyone else had this problem and how did you deal with it?
Besides filing down the top of the spike, which I do and have seen done, cutting or filing the head short and setting the gap as small as possible are other good techniques that can help avoid problems. But I wonder if your frets are smaller than mediums.
Assuming your fifth string is .009 or .010-inch, you need only .011 or .012 of clearance to get the string under the spike. As suggested above, you can use a feeler gauge to accomplish that. Or a piece of used 2nd or 3rd string.
If all else fails, you can install the spikes the way that used to be suggested back in the 70s. There was a drawing in circulation (I think it even appeared in an appendix of Pete Wernick's "Bluegrass Banjo") showing spikes at 7 and 9 installed on either side of the string (not in line beneath it) and pointing in opposite directions. I think First Quality used to include that drawing with an order of spikes.
The only advantage I can see in doing it this way is it keeps the string from fretting out on a spike. Problems with this installation approach include stretching the string so much it definitely needs retuning when spiked and the spikes it can interfere with fretting the fifth string.
I think the staggered approach works best for three spikes at most. Seventh fret spike can be under the string. The next two can be staggered. Al locations happy.
Then, again, maybe you can stagger 8 and 9, and put 10 under the string like 7, where it's slightly out of the path of a string spiked at 8 and 9 and shouldn't interfere with a string spiked at 7. Just thinking out loud.
It might not look good, but if it does the job . . .
quote:
Originally posted by TN TimeHow did I solve the problem? I pulled the spikes and installed a Shubb sliding 5th string capo.
Joe
If you are satisfied, thats the goal, but those do put holes in the pretty binding, and, for me, make it harder to fret 5th with thumb or other fingers.
quote:
Originally posted by gcpickenquote:
Originally posted by TN TimeHow did I solve the problem? I pulled the spikes and installed a Shubb sliding 5th string capo.
JoeIf you are satisfied, thats the goal, but those do put holes in the pretty binding, and, for me, make it harder to fret 5th with thumb or other fingers.
This is not a problem at all. If the Shubb rail is installed properly there are no holes to be seen in the binding at all; only screws. If for some god awful reason one wants to remove the Shubb sliding capo and install spikes, the binding holes are not a problem. Min-Wax makes a wax pencil in any color you want. Just rub it over the hole, smooth it out with your thumb and no more hole..
Joe