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Dec 20, 2024 - 3:40:13 PM

106 posts since 2/8/2011

The problem with regular tuners is that they need nearly constant tuning. The high tuning ratio virtually eliminates that as it is much, much easier to fine tune all strings.

Dec 21, 2024 - 4:11:17 PM

32 posts since 2/9/2008

Do they just fit into the existing banjo holes?

Dec 21, 2024 - 6:15:03 PM

106 posts since 2/8/2011

Yes, but you have to make the tiny stabilizing hole deeper. I use one of my tiny drill bits made to clean welding equipment.


Dec 21, 2024 - 6:31 PM

106 posts since 2/8/2011

BTW, here are 2 pics from Stewmac that show the colors and the stabilizing pin.


Dec 21, 2024 - 6:34:54 PM

106 posts since 2/8/2011

Follow the instructions very carefully. Read over them several times before you start the process of installing them to be sure you understand them.

Dec 22, 2024 - 11:56:41 AM
like this

417 posts since 10/19/2007

quote:
Originally posted by HSmith

"Ron Block is famed for his 'choking' style, and he manages perfectly well without any modification to his tuners. He is a member here and is very approachable. Why not ask him for his opinion?"


Depending on the musical context I will either bend strings or not. In a more traditional bluegrass song I don't do it much. But on more modern stuff, like AKUS or blues-based or modal songs, bending works out quite well.

Staying in tune while bending:
I use Rickard 10:1 tuners. When I restring I put the string through the tailpiece, and through the tuner hole. I hold the short end up top and the rest around the middle of the fretboard, and kink the string both ways so it sort of locks in. 

I wind the first time around ABOVE the string sticking out of the hole, and the rest of the winds BELOW it. 

I never tie the strings or otherwise make it impossible to change strings quickly. 

As I am turning the tuner to wind the string on I'm pulling on it a bit with my other hand, adding tension, stretching. 

Once I get all the strings on I get them close to pitch and I do various string bends - extreme ones - to get the strings to stretch and stop slipping. Once it starts staying in tune after every bend I go to regular playing. 

They're usually pretty good after all that. I've restrung a few minutes before shows and not had too much slippage. 

Hope this helps!
Best, 
Ron

Dec 22, 2024 - 2:46:54 PM

2613 posts since 2/9/2007

I've thought those Steinbergers would look good on some banjos, and they ought to tune very smoothly.

But, to repeat myself: They won't address your problems of tuning accuracy and stability any better than those Suzuki tuners can.

Dec 22, 2024 - 3:42:23 PM

106 posts since 2/8/2011

Unless you have tried them, you shouldn't speak on the subject. I also use them on my Tranjo practice banjo and a practice square neck resophonic guitar I made. No tuning problems at all, plus all 4 stay in tune for weeks, even when in their cases. And, there is no hardware sticking up as in the case of violin fine-tuners.

Dec 22, 2024 - 4:31:26 PM

32 posts since 2/9/2008

RonBlock Thanks for your reply! I'll try stringing the next set that way.

Dec 23, 2024 - 8:23:42 AM

13299 posts since 10/27/2006

"When I restring I put the string through the tailpiece, and through the tuner hole. I hold the short end up top and the rest around the middle of the fretboard, and kink the string both ways so it sort of locks in. "

 

Never on my instruments unless you want to change the strings.

Dec 24, 2024 - 5:11:31 AM

417 posts since 10/19/2007

quote:
Originally posted by mikehalloran

"When I restring I put the string through the tailpiece, and through the tuner hole. I hold the short end up top and the rest around the middle of the fretboard, and kink the string both ways so it sort of locks in. "

 

Never on my instruments unless you want to change the strings.


For anyone else reading this, it's not the same as tying the strings on (a fact I made clear in my post)..

You don't wrap the string around itself. They still pull out easily. In fact this is what strings do anyway (they kink around the post as they tighten).

This technique just takes away the gradual slipping and tightening, and gets the banjo tuning to solidify more quickly. It's a must, as I tend to do some string-bending. 

Jan 10, 2025 - 9:45:26 AM
likes this

32 posts since 2/9/2008

Update: Tightening the Keith tuners and putting some pencil lead on the nut basically solved the issue.

I did buy a Gold Tone tensionator because I love the idea of having fine tuners, but the adjustment screws have way too much tension for me to turn without a screwdriver, so they really don't work as fine tuners. It also pushed my bridge eastward (if the neck is north and the tailpiece is south), which isn't a problem I have had with my Presta or my Kershner-style tailpiece. The bridge issue might be an issue I could fix if I liked the tailpiece more, but I don't, so I didn't bother researching solutions. I'll be either returning or reselling the tensionator.

I hope to someday see the banjo equivalent of a Floyd Rose, but the tensionator ain't it. Bummer.

Edited by - matthewfbyrnes on 01/10/2025 09:48:15

Jan 13, 2025 - 10:29:13 AM

Paul R

Canada

17109 posts since 1/28/2010

I have a set on one of my banjos that has friction tuners. I also had them on my old Orpheum. I stabilized them by running a zip tie underneath (between the strings and the tuners) and trimming it. Otherwise the tuners tend to lean over. Here's a set on a banjeaurine (with friction tuners) that I borrowed from our local musical instrument lending library, Joe's MILL (the Joe Chithalen Memorial Musical Instrument Lending Library).


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