I'm looking for a strap that appears to not exist. I need it to be wide (2.5" or more), cushioned, detachable, and prefer the cradle style. I need to play while standing and my current 2" wide non-cushioned strap isn't cutting it during long periods. I've seen lots of wide and cushioned ones but I don't see how they could fit in the case without being detachable. I don't like the ones that are just tied around one of the J hooks.
Does such a strap exist? Anybody have suggestions?
Lakota's are so soft they don't need additional cushions. I have a cradle from them that I loved, but didn't like how the banjo when cradled, could rotate due to the weight of the neck. Supposed it'd have been an easy fix to stop that, but I went another route. This is the type I took off my banjo.
lakotaleathers.com/products/pr...php?id=88
That's a nice strap. I've seen it online before but skipped over it since it wasn't padded but I've never seen one in person, thanks for letting me know it doesn't need to be.
Did you have trouble closing your case with it on?
Another vote for Lakota. They are really soft and will fit in most cases when wrapped around the banjo above the flange.
Here's some info about finding the best cradle strap.....I've made several cuz I couldn't find the best cradle strap - but first though a few points or tutorial - your choice:
a) a cradle strap is basically incongruent with a "detachable" strap, that is, traditional cradle straps wrap around the neck of course then downwards around both sides of the resonator where the 2 ends overlap and are fixed together at the bottom of the reso. The 'fixing together' could I suppose be accomplished by a pair of Chicago screws, or a right-sized small buckle, but my choice is to punch holes 3" or so at both strap ends then tastefully lace the strap ends together.
b) the 'a' method above is not conducive whatsoever to 'detaching' the strap everytime you case-up the instrument. OTOH, I suppose a clever sort of guy could invent a hybrid 'detachable' doodad but here's the thing...
c) you Mr. Poster want a 2-1/2" shoulder-bearing strap section but with the many different cases I've dealt with, a 2" (maybe 2-1/8") strap width will work beautifully once you learn how to coil up the strap neatly in that very special place right around the neck heel area....like magic.
d) the fat 2" length would start say, first hook above the tailpiece and end say, 2 hooks above the heel. That leaves you with how to tastefully taper down the 2" to the (approx) 3/4", of both strap ends, that continue around the resonator.
e) so, what to do about the over-or-under issue of the tension hooks ?....my strap ends are thinned down enough to squeeze-fit through the space between the rim and hook, and with enough tapering and squeezing you'll learn how to even tuck under the laced ends.
f) the top shoulder section can be made with adjustable strap slots typically found but there are other cosmetic ways to do that.
g) I start strap therapy by purchasing a half hide of veg-tanned top grain leather. You might be surprised at the length of the two strap halves once you blank out a pattern - thus, the necessity to buy raw stock from a leather supplier. Expensive yes, but you'll have a decent enough inventory to make a few ooops plus an extra strap or two for the local sheriff and church Rev.
I made the mistake once of purchasing a Levi's so called cradle strap only to find it woefully short and totally unsuitable for a banjo. So, I thought Levis' might want some unsolicited friendly and useful customer recommendations but apparently the memo didn't make it to the Director of Marketing and Sales.
Strap design and cosmetics are a personal thing. Some folks don't care as long as it's cheap, then there's other folks who prefer to be either a bit more traditional-looking and tidy fit, then other folks like a bit more strap personalization and uniqueness.
FWIW, IMO the strap snap-to-tension hook method doesn't conjure up enough confidence to my liking so handy-made cradle straps look nice, and repeating a word above, making stuff is 'therapeutic' and those additional skills might make you more desirable to the ladies.
Time up.
(edit.....a few of my banjos are keepers and also outfitted with Fults tailpieces. And yes, you can still thread a strap under a Fults TP but you'll find solutions to accommodate the annoying rear side mounting block and cap screw then Bob's yer unkel.)
Edited by - banjoT1 on 12/07/2024 17:10:08
quote:
Originally posted by Ty PresleyThat's a nice strap. I've seen it online before but skipped over it since it wasn't padded but I've never seen one in person, thanks for letting me know it doesn't need to be.
Did you have trouble closing your case with it on?
No trouble, because it's so soft it has no problem even at the 3" width. Like another poster later mentioned it's not detachable, but you'd have to modify it if that's really what you want.
So, above i mentioned I use top grain leather - can't recall "guage" number but it's approximately 1/8+" thickness - and it's stiffness precludes "folding or rolling" it tighter for cramming into the case. A fix for making it more supple would be repeated applications of leather conditioner.
In contrast to the top grain leather there is a substantially different fibrous structure in bison leather. The two are totally different. The bison can be quite soft, rollable and stretchable - the cowhide not so much lengthwise. Basic different project starting points but most or all leather retailers rejoice when taking customers questions about their product inventory, and maybe most tack shops would be accommodating as well.
.....and further, not much as been said re the "sheepskin".
Real sheepskin, opposite of "faux sheepskin ", can be purchased from those same leather suppliers. It would often be available in the "yellow " or "orange" variety more often than "white/natural" variety. From my experience the white sheepskin, when available, is the first to sell out so get a stash when you can.
