I tried looking in the forum, and online, but can’t find my answer. I have a 1950s-ish Kay with a thin neck. I think it’s called a parlor banjo(?). At least that’s what an old timer told me. When I use a “standard” bridge my 1st and 5th strings are off the sides of the neck. Does anyone know of a Luthier that sells homemade bridges for thin necked banjos? Or the spacing for the bridge. I’m not opposed to sanding down the ebony flush on the bridge and making my own slots.
I'd be happy to make a bridge for you that fits,Mike.
I’ve found 1 1/2” or 1 5/8” string spacing (as opposed to 1 11/16” standard spacing) to work on a couple of narrow necked banjos I have. I’ve had those made; I’ve also used older Grover “ Non Tip “ bridges to good effect, as the two of those I’ve acquired have 1 1/2” string spacing. (And I’m sure Mr. Davis would do a good job for you, regardless of what you decide will work on your banjo.)
Edited by - srrobertsiii on 12/05/2024 13:37:13
Rather than sand down your existing bridge, I'd pick up an unslotted bridge and slot it yourself. The most straight forward approach would be to cut the first slot right in the middle of the bridge for the 3rd string, string the banjo up, and locate the bridge on the head at the spot where the chime and the fretted note at the 12th fret on the 3rd string sound the same for that string (that would be exactly the distance from the nut to the 12th fret measured from the 12th fret out across the head). Then scoot the 1st and 5th strings along the top of the bridge until the strings align with the edges of the neck on both sides down along the neck and where the neck meets the rim with ~1/8" of space between the board edge and the string. Mark where those strings cross the bridge, they should be equidistant from the middle slot. Then cut the 1st and 5th slots in the bridge at those spots you marked. Then measure for the middle between the 1st and 3rd slot for the 2nd string slot and between the 5th and 3rd slot for the 4th string slot. The slots should be equidistant from each other all the way across.
Even if you just ask steve davis to make you a bridge (which would be an excellent choice), you should still do the measurement of where the 1st and 5th strings ought to be for your banjo with your current bridge as described above so he will know where they should be on the bridge he makes for you.
I would need to know the length of the last fret and the nut to 12th fret distance to know what the bridge spacing would be.
Edited by - steve davis on 12/06/2024 07:08:44
quote:
Originally posted by steve davisI'd be happy to make a bridge for you that fits,Mike.
Steve! Thanks so much. Send me an email and we can talk there. mike.carterjr@gmail.com
quote:
Originally posted by dpgetmanRather than sand down your existing bridge, I'd pick up an unslotted bridge and slot it yourself. The most straight forward approach would be to cut the first slot right in the middle of the bridge for the 3rd string, string the banjo up, and locate the bridge on the head at the spot where the chime and the fretted note at the 12th fret on the 3rd string sound the same for that string (that would be exactly the distance from the nut to the 12th fret measured from the 12th fret out across the head). Then scoot the 1st and 5th strings along the top of the bridge until the strings align with the edges of the neck on both sides down along the neck and where the neck meets the rim with ~1/8" of space between the board edge and the string. Mark where those strings cross the bridge, they should be equidistant from the middle slot. Then cut the 1st and 5th slots in the bridge at those spots you marked. Then measure for the middle between the 1st and 3rd slot for the 2nd string slot and between the 5th and 3rd slot for the 4th string slot. The slots should be equidistant from each other all the way across.
Even if you just ask steve davis to make you a bridge (which would be an excellent choice), you should still do the measurement of where the 1st and 5th strings ought to be for your banjo with your current bridge as described above so he will know where they should be on the bridge he makes for you.
Dav, thanks for the insight. I have searched for my banjo online to see if I can get a measurement on the bridge. Mine came with a broken bridge from shipping, 4 pieces. I tried to "piece" back together to measure but didn't work.
I did take a bridge and sand it down,then I took the nut measurement and transferred to the new bridge but I'm REALLY new at this. I'm trying to learn as much as I can to do the little banjo so I learn all aspects of it.
i feel that when one is closer to the instrument and can know its limitations the sounds one makes are felt more through the music that's played.
I really appreciate all the feedback on BH! I think this has to be the most positive place on the interwebs.
quote:
Originally posted by srrobertsiiiI’ve found 1 1/2” or 1 5/8” string spacing (as opposed to 1 11/16” standard spacing) to work on a couple of narrow necked banjos I have. I’ve had those made; I’ve also used older Grover “ Non Tip “ bridges to good effect, as the two of those I’ve acquired have 1 1/2” string spacing. (And I’m sure Mr. Davis would do a good job for you, regardless of what you decide will work on your banjo.)
Steven, I've been searching for grovers. The 1 1/2" spacing I think would be perfect.
thanks for your input and I'm always wanting to learn.
I like my string spacing at the bridge a fair piece wider than normal. What I did with an old skinny-necked Kay I had years ago was to make a little outrigger out of a piece of ebony, which became a nut (pip) for the 5th string that was a couple mm off the edge of the fingerboard. If memory serves, it was roughly elliptical, ~ 5x7mm, ~ 3mm thick, with a good-sized ~90º chunk cut out of it to fit the edge of the fingerboard, so I could glue it to both the edge and face of the board (with CA), up against the 5th fret. On the bridge side of the fret, I think. Can't recall if I had to shim the treble side of the heel (or shift the tailpiece) to get the 1st string to line up right. Just shifting the string might have gotten it right without any other adjustment.
It worked very well for me, but I never fret the thumb string, and rarely want to tune it any higher than "A". YMMV.
Edited by - Dan Gellert on 12/07/2024 13:05:31
