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Just as I was about to pull the trigger on a new entry level open back banjo, I came across an RK-36 on Craigslist at a price I couldn't pass up. To my novice eyes, it seems to be a very clean and well cared for example. The old man I bought it from said it was 20 years old, but the serial number indicates it was made in 2013. Makes no difference to me, but I did notice something that looked off to me.
Can you guys look at the way the bridge is angled toward the head and tell me if this is something that needs addressed? And before I start to learn, is it worth taking it to a qualified person to check it out / set it up? As I'm sure you have guessed, I am a complete newbie.
I appreciate any input you guys/gals may have.
(editing to add photos)
Edited by - Chrojo on 11/27/2024 14:20:50
Forgot the pics..
Thank you, was having a hard time figuring out how to post an image.
That bridge has simply been bumped a bit out of place, nearly knocked over. Read up on how to correctly reset the bridge. No big deal, and something every newbie needs to learn.
Edited by - Eric A on 11/27/2024 12:06:01
RK-35 was introduced around 2010, I think. And RK-36 followed. So none of these are yet 20 years old.
The bridge just needs to be stood up straight, with all feet flat on the head. Use both hands to grip both ends -- thumbs on neck-facing side, fingers on other -- and use enough force to push it upright. Then you're going to have to check the bridge location for correct intonation, and move it forward or back as required.
Congrats on the new banjo.
Appreciate the help guys, got it sorted. Just needed to do some more reading as was pointed out.
I got this banjo and hard case for $500, seemed to be quite low for my area. I really wanted an open back for the weight savings as I travel a lot for work and plan to drag it with me, but again the price swayed me. After handling it some more, I suspect this will become my "house banjo" and I'll end up picking up a cheaper open back that I'm not so worried about travelling with after all. I guess one can't have too many banjos. Banjoes?
Now to pick a lesson plan and get started. Looking forward to hanging out here.
Edited by - Chrojo on 11/27/2024 12:27:24
If nothing on that banjo is in need of repairs, or has been repaired in a cobbed up way, that's a very good buy at $500.
I advise if you're adjusting a banjo bridge for the first time, slack off the string tension quite a bit (to lower but audible notes) when you tilt or move the bridge. You to have learn "the touch" so you don't snap the bridge in half trying to adjust it under full string pressure. Once the feet are flat on the plane of the head, then tune back up to pitch slowly.
I usually advise when moving a bridge, to put some sort of narrow straight edge behind it, on the side you're pushing on, to distribute the force evenly from end to end. Personally I use a pencil...
That is exactly what I wound up doing.
There are no repairs on this banjo that I can detect, and it appears quite solid. Sadly the gentleman I bought it from could no longer play due to health reasons, so I think he just wanted rid of it.
Learn how to position the banjo bridge:
as your adjusting the bridge you might notice it might be angled (bottom leg toward the tailpiece or the peghead). I find it rare that a bridge will be perfectly straight. Maybe someone can explain this better than me.
......while writing a reply 1/2 hour ago my laptop crashed but will continue some babble about bridge nuances that can be a bit wordy when necessary to explain.
After enlarging the photo I can see a slight radius and taper at the top of the (black) bridge cap where strings make contact. And, if what I'm seeing is correct, then the clues indicate that the bridge appearing in the OP's photo is actually installed backwards - as in, turn the bridge around 180 degrees.
The vertical stance of a bridge, and the machining of it, largely depends on how the bridge maker applies the theoretical downward string force to the bridge cap that, in turn, transfers the downward force load to the bridge feet.
Not all bridges are machined with a 'backwards' slant but it's popular nowadays to equally apply, or 'split', the string force relative to the tailpiece-determining 'string break angle' of 13 to15 degrees or so. So to accommodate the asymmetrical string load (front side vs. back side) many bridges are machined and positioned as 'slanted-looking'. (This has nothing to do with intonation - only bridge loading.)
....so, spin the bridge around and continue positioning it in accordance with tuning. And, since I'm thinking you are relatively unknowledgeable about this procedure, during intonation the longitudinal bridge axis will almost certainly (but not always) need to be 'skewed' slightly on the head.
To belabor the point, I should also mention that wherever the maker's mark or logo appears is typically assumed to be the 'front' or fretboard-facing side of a bridge > but not necessarily so. What actually determines bridge-to-head orientation, or what side faces where, is in part how the slots are cut + bridge cap surface taper/angle + how bottom of bridge feet are machined + sometimes by if or how the bridge side surfaces are machined.
All of this simply adds to the mental stress and anxiety that a banjo player must deal with, every, single, day.
Edited by - banjoT1 on 11/27/2024 14:08:48
No, I don't think that bridge is on backwards. There's a slanty side and a straight side (vertical, or perpendicular to the head). the straight side always faces the tailpiece.
If the bridge has a makers mark on it (probably not if it's the stock RK bridge) then the makers mark faces toward the neck.
Edited by - Eric A on 11/27/2024 14:08:58
....Eric....sorry, but you didn't grasp the meaning of my words and explanation. Your 'rules' are actually assumptions. I know of no rule book - please tell me where this information appears in banjo space.
Edited by - banjoT1 on 11/27/2024 14:18:49
Here it is after I loosened the strings, adjusted the cant, then re-tuned. I did not flip it around 180 degrees.
sure does look like it should be reversed. have a look at the string slots.
@Chrojo, It appears to me that you are correct and that your bridge is facing the proper way. The straight side should face the tailpiece.
I agree it is correct as I see it.
Thanks everyone for the input.
I've never touched a banjo before picking this one up. Having a great time going through the various online learning options and figuring out which one suits my learning style.
quote:
Originally posted by banjoT1
applies the theoretical downward string force to the bridge cap that, in turn, transfers the downward force load to the bridge feet.>>> No transfer of force takes place nor do sounds meander through the bridge. The bridge vibrates as one complete unit and bops up/down/sideways
Not all bridges are machined with a 'backwards' slant but it's popular nowadays>>> Yup. The only reason it's done that way is because now you need to sand only one side of the bridge.
....so, spin the bridge around and continue positioning it in accordance with tuning>>> Nope. Slanted side towards the neck, straight side towards the tailpiece. Practically/scientifically no diff. Simply convention/fashion and, in rare cases, prevents the famous forward splat onto the head when the bridge isn't placed straight up enough.
I should also mention that wherever the maker's mark or logo appears is typically assumed to be the 'front'
>>> Yup, so the user always gets to see who made it
Bridges aren't near as complicated as one might think but they sure are a lot of fun to mess around with. Oh, I'm just a bridge maker. Well, a retired one anyways.
....sigh, folks read words but few take their meaning fully.
.....very common, but somewhere out there I just know there are folks who do.
Just to clear the waters, I'm about 99.9999% [yep, that's four decimal places] sure that some years ago I read on BHO that the "right" [conventional??] way was to have the maker's mark face the tailpiece.
So, being eager to do things the right way, and recognizing the value of tradition, I put a mark with permanent marker, or made a tiny indentation with a drill bit on some my previously "plain" bridges.
I say with mucho confidence that it made no difference 
.... though I do try to see if the fourth string notch is wider.
quote:
Originally posted by OwenJust to clear the waters, I'm about 99.9999% [yep, that's four decimal places] sure that some years ago I read on BHO that the "right" [conventional??] way was to have the maker's mark face the tailpiece.
I say with mucho confidence that it made no difference
I'd say that 99.9999% (yep, that's four decimal places) of bridges have the makers mark facing the fretboard .
......and it does make a difference......
Chances are that the bridge may not be at the best position for intonation as you would play notes down the neck. You may not need to be overly concerned when beginning, but as you progress, there are videos that show how to get the ‘perfect’ bridge placement.
quote:
Originally posted by ChrojoHere it is after I loosened the strings, adjusted the cant, then re-tuned. I did not flip it around 180 degrees.
Chrojo,
As it appears you got a good deal on a Recording King banjo!
The rear (toward the tailpiece) face of the bridge is 90° to the base of the bridge. The front of the bridge (toward the neck) is sloped on which good quality handmade bridges most often display a makers mark. The slots in the bridge top are of varied sizes which coincide with the different gauges of strings on a banjo and at a glance this will be self-evident. The bridge slots are also filed at an angle sloping toward the tailpiece as shown in your photo (strings leaving the back of the bridge toward tailpiece are deeper). This slope allows for a crisp connection of string to bridge on the front (neck side) of the bridge. When tipping up a banjo bridge (assuming it is laying flat on the head) the feet should face the bridge so that the strings contact deeper sides if the slots first and do not ruin the sharp crisp string contact on the front of the bridge. Replacing the bridge on an inexpensive banjo with a hand made aftermarket bridge from a known maker will most often result in a noticeable improvement in sound quality and/or volume.
The next step after installing a banjo bridge is to correctly set the intonation, which is probably the single most important factor in obtaining the maximum performance an instrument can offer. See YouTube video's that will guide you. Also, make sure your banjo head is set to the correct tension.
Edited by - Pick-A-Lick on 11/29/2024 08:46:47
quote:
Originally posted by ChrojoAppreciate the help guys, got it sorted. Just needed to do some more reading as was pointed out.
I got this banjo and hard case for $500, seemed to be quite low for my area. I really wanted an open back for the weight savings as I travel a lot for work and plan to drag it with me, but again the price swayed me. After handling it some more, I suspect this will become my "house banjo" and I'll end up picking up a cheaper open back that I'm not so worried about travelling with after all. I guess one can't have too many banjos. Banjoes?
Now to pick a lesson plan and get started. Looking forward to hanging out here.
You didn't get a good deal, you scored a GOOD STEAL!!!! Get a good set up on it and put a good after market bridge on it. and you'll be in business. 
Congrats. 
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