Morning All!!
I have a bridge that has had the slots deepened and widened which has resulted in string buzz, especially on the base string. Please see the picture accompanying this post. What is the best way to refurbish this bridge? I have two thoughts on this
1. build up the slots with CA glue and ebony sawdust and re-slot the bridge
2. Sand down the ebony part of the bridge and replace the ebony, and then res-lot the bridge
Has anyone done this and what were the results, pitfalls etc
Many thanks
Graeme
You might want to simply replace the bridge. They are readily available and not expensive. Many players consider bridges to be like strings or banjo heads: useful for a while but needing replacement. I certainly don't change bridges with every string replacement, but maybe once every year or so I'll deploy a new bridge.
Bridges are so inexpensive that it's fun to have several bridges, each with different characteristics affecting sound and playability: different types of wood, different thicknesses,compensated or not, etc, etc, etc. I like a fatter bridge for Celtic/melodic music, and for accompanying singing, and a thinner bridge for bluegrass.
But beyond all that, the CA glue solution sounds a lot easier than replacing the ebony. I've seen the CA glue solution work on bridges. I've occasionally used it on the nut to get a better match between a string and the nut.
Fill the slots..with super glue..n re- cut the slots..
In some cases..just letting the strings do the cutting is fine..
But first..make sure...
The glue is..FULLY..cured..
Can be done on a nut to if need be..
Edited by - STUD figmo Al on 11/09/2024 04:58:19
Btw..
Thos are nice bridges..
I use them meself.. :0)
If you like it and want to keep it, I would measure and weigh it first. Sand the ebony off and sand the top level, as it appears to be sagged. Glue a new piece of ebony with regular Titebond and sand back to your original size and weight. You can reslot as you want.
Both of those options should work fine. That bridge looks like it has developed some sag in the middle though - I would replace it but you probably wouldn't have issues with a repair. Lots of players swap bridges often and there can be a big difference in the sound. Replacing a bad bridge with a quality one has been known to "wake up" the sound of a banjo.
BTW. I have found that the fit of the ebony top and glue used are critical to the sound.
Edited by - euler357 on 11/09/2024 05:19:37
First check the head tension, it could easily be too low which allows the bridge to sink too deep.
Not everyone has a spare chunk of ebony kicking around and crazy glue mixed with ebony dust is not hard enough > use crazy glue and baking soda instead, the fill will be harder and it'll dry in less than a minute. After sanding use a sharpie to blacken it. Use welding tip cleaners to do the slotting: https://banjobridge.com/br-06b.htm
"Bridges are so inexpensive" - this is 2024, not everyone is a millionair...
Seeing how that's a Steve Davis bridge, you should contact him (he's a 'Hangout member who is on this site regularly), and ask him for suggestions. The bridge, and of course the ebony, are "unorthodox" in their shape.....it's a crooked piece of ebony, not just a straight piece
Edited by - RioStat on 11/09/2024 07:40:37
I have done all the above & I have lots of small pieces of ebony & rosewood, ect. & easy on a straight bridge, I just did replacing ebony yesterday, but that's me . But bridges are inexpensive, so your call.
If the bridge is "swayback" it's probably the head tension as mentoined .
Tom
I’ve kept a couple of my 1920s bridges going with the CA and sanding dust approach. Works well. I’ve also taken a couple of wide tenor bridges, cut off the slots and reslotted them for 5 strings. That works too. I’d start with the CA approach. If you’re unhappy with the result, you can turn to the cut and reslot method.
Edited by - Bill Rogers on 11/09/2024 12:10:16
Thanks for all of the comments all
Looks l8ke CA glue or a new bridge is the way forward :-)
You might want to put a sliver of wood or perhaps paper in the slot to test whether reducing the width will cure the buzz. If it does, then proceed with one of your permanent fixes.
BUT -- if the string is buzzing because there's too much room for it to vibrate inside the slot, I'd try to file the bottom of the slot so it breaks downward from the face, to assure the witness point is at the very front of the bridge. I think that would kill the tendency of the string to vibrate inside the bridge. I could very well be wrong.
I'd also consider weaving a piece of leather lace through the strings between the bridge and tailpiece. This may also do nothing.
Paging steve davis to this discussion.
I've spoken with Graeme.He's the second owner of this bridge that was made for a different banjo.
Graeme asked me if filling the slots and reslotting would be a solution if the action were too low and I said Yes.
From the pictures I don't think the slots are too wide,but I'm not a fan of diagnosing anything over the interweb.
What is the relief at 7
What is the head tension
What size strings
Tailpiece height
Anything loose
Clearance of strings over the 1st fret
are some of the issues I would check off were I to have the banjo in hand.
