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Hello all,
I have a question regarding an older style dowel stick brace. I've seen one that's a simple L bracket screwed down into the dowel, and a bolt pressing on to the inside of the rim against a shim so as not to ruin the wood. My question is do you think this provides enough even pressure against the rim or do you think there is too much pressure being applied in one spot?
Cheers,
Ben
Edited by - BWharton on 10/08/2024 06:02:04
I think it should work fine for an older banjo, but it will be important to have the screw that goes into the dowel stick tight, or maybe a bolt through the dowel stick would work better. I don't see a particular benefit to using this design on a new banjo being built, but maybe there is one that I haven't thought about.
Thanks, yeah I'm just looking at all the different ways to try out - I usually use a wedge or peg through the dowel against the rim, but I'm starting to add more brass to my builds now so I'm looking at alternatives that I make myself simply, such as this one can cut from a piece of angle and drill two holes and tap one. I'm also testing out the type that goes over the dowel putting wedges on both sides which took a bit longer than expected to cut and shape let alone making now two corresponding wedges.
If it were my banjo, I would modify the clamp bracket. I would discard the slotted, round head screw that's used to fasten the clamp bracket to the dowel stick. I would then countersink the clamp bracket mounting hole, and I would replace the round head screw with a countersunk head screw or an oval head screw.
Attached below is an example used by S. S. Stewart on his cheaper 2nd grade line as well as F&C banjos. I have examples of both and they both work.
This being said, these are lightly built classic era banjos intended to be strung with very light gut strings (compared to the modern concept of extremely thick polyester strings sold as "nylgut")
One might want to stick with more substantial options if using the heavy polyester (which have tensions near or equal to steel) or steel strings.
Edited by - Joel Hooks on 10/08/2024 07:14:56
I make my own from brass, following the more common design which is a sort of U shaped yoke that goes around the dowel stick. It's a bit of cutting but I do the heavy work on the bandsaw. Just be careful when you get down to the last one and hold the brass with pliers to keep your hands out of harm's way. I use wood cutting bands when they start to get too dull to cut wood straight.
quote:
Originally posted by RB3If it were my banjo, I would modify the clamp bracket. I would discard the slotted, round head screw that's used to fasten the clamp bracket to the dowel stick. I would then countersink the clamp bracket mounting hole, and I would replace the round head screw with a countersunk head screw or an oval head screw.
Exactly what I was thinking too - great minds hey.
quote:
Originally posted by Joel HooksAttached below is an example used by S. S. Stewart on his cheaper 2nd grade line as well as F&C banjos. I have examples of both and they both work.
This being said, these are lightly built classic era banjos intended to be strung with very light gut strings (compared to the modern concept of extremely thick polyester strings sold as "nylgut")
One might want to stick with more substantial options if using the heavy polyester (which have tensions near or equal to steel) or steel strings.
Cheers Joel,
Wow thanks for that paper clipping - I wasn't aware of so much rivalry in the banjo building world back then - great read! I've made a what they've called 'brace and elbow' out of brass 3/4" angle with saw and file as opposed to casting. I don't think I'll do it again as time-wise it's not economical this way unless I had castings made, but is for a friend so I don't mid too much and will work quite nicely on this current banjo job. It's strung with Aquila nylgut.